Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

I am in the process of replacing my heads. However, the intake must come off first. But it seems stuck in the back half of the intake.

I have removed the 10 long bolts that holds it on as well as the EGR stuff, throttle cable, unplugged all connectors and disconnected the fuel line.

Am I missing something that is keeping the intake on in the back, or is it just being stubborn? The intake has been on for several years now, since replacing a valve in one of the heads.

Please help.

WS6FTW

The bolts int he back are too long to come all the way out. You need to hold them up as you pull the intake foward, then you can pull out the bolts. Did you disconnect the brake booster from the back? I don't rememebr 100%, but do the fuel rail bolts go all the way through to the top of the block? That might be your problem.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

And you will want to put those 4 back bolts in the intake before you start to put it back on. But it looks like you have had it off before. If you have the 10 bolts out I don't know what else would be holding it down like that. I guess that you took the fuel rails off too?

chuckyt1

iTrader: (33)

Does it move at all or does it feel like it's still bolted on?

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the quick replies.

I did not completely remove all 10 bolts,, the back two on each side are taped up about 1 1/2".

The intake is loose in front, I can pry it up about 3/32", max. I am afraid of breaking it.

The fuel rails are still attached, since I am going to install 30#/hr injectors, I might as well remove the fuel rails now.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Yeah, get that crap out of your way.

Mssingkid

iTrader: (7)

You did get all the connections right?? One that goes to the map sensor, big *** break booster hose, and a tiny hose that goes to the ECU. You can't just slide the intake forward, you're going to have to lift the entire thing(In the little room you have) and while holding the rear screws pull it forward. Make sure you don't hit the oil pressure sending unit, or you'll have to replace it like many of us have... GL

VTC_WS6

iTrader: (9)

yea make sure you truly unseated the rear most intake bolts. I fought with mine for like 10mins+ only to realize I left one of the bolts slightly seated in the thread hole!

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

That is exactly how it goes.
Sounds like you have the bolts off if your holding them up over 1 inch with tape.
I am guessing something from the back is holding you on.
If you having this much of a problem with the intake, you will have a ton of enjoyment in the heads.

RedWS6 00

Watch out for the oil pressure sender unit at the back. The brake vacumm pipe wraps around it. So pulling the intake forward will break this oil senser unit.

Put you hand down the back of the intake a little to the right of the center you will feel the sender unit, it may still have an electrical connection you need to unplug also.

to hold up the intake bolts I just wraped some tape around them.

There is also the MAP sensor at the back to the left of the brake vacuum pipe, that unplugs too.

Attached is a photo of the LS1 with the intake removed, see the oil pressure sender standing up. Well the vacumm pipe from the intake goes around the back of this. Hope this helps.

TOS98SS

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think the problem is the brake booster hose it is a wraped around in there and that will hold you up just need to snake it throught the wires

westxwitesnake05

iTrader: (17)

there are a couple vaccume lines at the rear of the intake that must be undone maybe you left one on?

Doc99SS

iTrader: (2)

Yep, I was being stupid, I removed one of the fuel rail bolts near the back thinking it was an intake manifold bolt. problem is resolved. I'm just getting to old for this stuff.

Thanks again for the replies.