Setting the valves on a LS1 - cam install
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Setting the valves on a LS1 - cam install
Is setting the valves the same as an older SBC on the LS1? Adjusting the rocker Arm by firing order until some slack starts on the pushrod? Also there was a link to installing a cam in a LS1 while in the car somewhere on here, could someone direct me to that write-up? I'm going to attempt this by myself in the next week or so, I'm itching for more power and that nice choppy idle. I'm going with the TR 224 cam package from Thunder Racing, if anyone has any tips on the cam install from your personal experience doing this then I'd like to hear them, thanks...
#3
Originally Posted by 98-LS1
Is setting the valves the same as an older SBC on the LS1? Adjusting the rocker Arm by firing order until some slack starts on the pushrod? Also there was a link to installing a cam in a LS1 while in the car somewhere on here, could someone direct me to that write-up? I'm going to attempt this by myself in the next week or so, I'm itching for more power and that nice choppy idle. I'm going with the TR 224 cam package from Thunder Racing, if anyone has any tips on the cam install from your personal experience doing this then I'd like to hear them, thanks...
Best of luck.
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Thanks, I read over the link above and got some good information but I'm not understanding the torque the rockers to 22 ft. lbs. part, sorry if this sounds dumb but when torqueing the rockers down the # 1 piston has to be at TDC correct? Tighten the closed valves depending on firing order, rotate the crank 180 then torque the rest? Or is it just torque all down the 22 ft. lbs. , rotate 180 then re-check? I don't think this will be too bad and I should have it done in a weekend. How long did it take ya'll on the first try? Thanks again, ya'll are a big help.
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Originally Posted by WernerGMHTP
Depends what rocker arms you have: stock (non-adjustable) or aftermaket? Check out the "My First Stroker" stories in the August, September, and November issues of GMHTP for a cam install, particularly the latest story on adjusting the valves. The install/adjustment is not performed while the engine is in the car but hopefully it will help. All stories are available on gmhightechperformance.com under "Tech."
Best of luck.
Best of luck.
That's the way everybody I know does it. Has worked for me for about 40 years.
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Thanks, that's the way I'm used to doing it on older SBC's so I'll do the same on this LS1. Now as far as valve spring removal tools, I'm looking at two from Thunder Racing, they have one from Crane cams that removes two springs at once and another that mounts over the rocker stud. I'm doing this install with the motor in the car so would the crane double spring tool work under the cowl? I'm kinda afraid the More Performance tool would break the rocker stud off in the head. All in all I think it'll be a fun weekend project, thanks again.
#7
Originally Posted by 98-LS1
Thanks, I read over the link above and got some good information but I'm not understanding the torque the rockers to 22 ft. lbs. part, sorry if this sounds dumb but when torqueing the rockers down the # 1 piston has to be at TDC correct? Tighten the closed valves depending on firing order, rotate the crank 180 then torque the rest? Or is it just torque all down the 22 ft. lbs. , rotate 180 then re-check? I don't think this will be too bad and I should have it done in a weekend. How long did it take ya'll on the first try? Thanks again, ya'll are a big help.
If you're reusing the factory non-adjustable rocker arms, make sure you have the correct length pushrods to work with your cam, lifters, etc. Since they are non-adjustable there is almost zero leeway on this. The company that sells the cam will be able to guide you on this factor.
Working under the hood is the only difficult part of the process - pull the plugs out, put the tranny in neutral, and get a socket to turn the crank and it'll be relatively easy to spin. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
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Just swapped springs in my SS. Get the Crane tool that does two at a time. Makes life a hell of a lot easier. It'll work under the cowl. As for reinstalling the rockers, I put the #1 at TDC, torqued the (stock) rockers down to 22ft/lbs on both valves (both closed) on 1 & 6, rotate 90*, then 8 & 5, rotate 90*, 7 & 4, rotate 90*, and finally 3 & 2. Then, I rotated the motor a few times and made a second pass (in the same order) to double check the torque specs. Don't forget a little Loctite on the rocker bolts. Piece of cake.
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I think in the begining of this post you was looking for the link to install cam with motor still in the car try here......www.Ls1howto.com
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please help me them, I just put the hot cam in my car, I just put the z06 springs, anyway I thought you just torqued the (stock) rockers down to 22ft/lbs and thats it. should I have done it like an old school motor?
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Originally Posted by Wheeler99WS6
I think in the begining of this post you was looking for the link to install cam with motor still in the car try here......www.Ls1howto.com
Wow, thanks! That should help alot.
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Originally Posted by WernerGMHTP
The GM service manual gives two different positions for the crank where half the rockers are torqued on one, and half on the other. However, because of the increased duration of an aftermarket cam possibly causing lifters to be off the cam base circles at these positions (when they would not be with a factory cam), it's probably best to do the valves cylinder-by-cylinder as I did in the GMHTP article.
If you're reusing the factory non-adjustable rocker arms, make sure you have the correct length pushrods to work with your cam, lifters, etc. Since they are non-adjustable there is almost zero leeway on this. The company that sells the cam will be able to guide you on this factor.
Working under the hood is the only difficult part of the process - pull the plugs out, put the tranny in neutral, and get a socket to turn the crank and it'll be relatively easy to spin. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
If you're reusing the factory non-adjustable rocker arms, make sure you have the correct length pushrods to work with your cam, lifters, etc. Since they are non-adjustable there is almost zero leeway on this. The company that sells the cam will be able to guide you on this factor.
Working under the hood is the only difficult part of the process - pull the plugs out, put the tranny in neutral, and get a socket to turn the crank and it'll be relatively easy to spin. Don't forget to disconnect the battery!
Thanks too, I'm getting the whole kit from Thunder Racing so I don't mis-match anything. I'm getting the matching push rods, springs and titanium retainers for the cam swap. Still undecided about changing the oil pump, it's got great oil pressure now but probably wouldn't hurt to upgrade to an LS6 pump.