Ted J

iTrader: (4)

I got the idea from the guy talking about this in the meanest sounding cam thread. I'm curious, what the meanest pulling cam? I'm looking to put it into a '00 LS1 with stock heads and stock bottom end (although I'm planning on upgrading the rod bolts) Was hoping for a powerful midrange and upper end cam used for drag racing and also some road racing and autocrossing. It will be a race car so driveablity isn't an issue and a rough idle is prefered.

It seems the TREX is a popular cam, is there any other ones that people would suggest looking into? I'm wondering if Futural has any cams comparable to the TREX? The FM15?!?!

Thanks!

The stunningman

iTrader: (47)

pulling would be subjective in a combo.

1) the engine set-up Cam, heads, CR, DCR ,Headers, Intake etc
2) the driveline set-up gears and stall

Mismatched on either one could cause a "cam" to not "pull" well.

PREDATOR-Z

Get a high lift T-Rex

243/248, .653/.615 110+4

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

I haven't done much road racing myself, but it seems these two statements are rather contradictory. Giving up your driveability may well hurt you in low speed turns and transitions in road race & autocross.

That being said, the majority of drieabilty will be in your tune....go with predator's recommendation, he knows his stuff!

The1N_only

iTrader: (7)

i wonder is that would fit with out fly cutting... because i was thinking about doing something of that nature... or a 239/246 649/656 109 +1 (i think thats the specs on the lsk lobes.... what spring would you run?

PREDATOR-Z

Every motor is different (piston to deck height) so even Thunder recommends measuring PTV, but Yes it SHOULD fit. It is a T-Rex on LSK/XE-R

Regarding your cam, theoreticaly it should fit, but better measure. The LSA/ICL might need to be played with. In cases like this, get a 109+0, use an adjustable T-Chain, and advance as required while measuring.
I'm a firm believer that cams should be degreed and PTV measured in extreme cam cases like these.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

As mentioned above, drag racing and autocrossing both require a pretty different setup, both suspension-wise, and sometimes power-wise. If you're looking to road race/autox, you typically want a smaller cam to keep the useable power band down lower (especially if you're manual, they won't slip/stall to whatever speed your converter is). On the other hand, for all out straightline, you would typically go for a larger cam (such as the T-Rex as mentioned). Maybe you'd like something right in the middle, like a 232/236 or 233/239 or something. I went with a 224/228 and almost wish I had gone a teeny tiny bit bigger, but this cam still pulls like crazy. I also have ported heads though.

The1N_only

iTrader: (7)

what would you run as far as spring go? on that high of a lift on the lsk lobes. The comp 921 are only rated to 650, but a few people have told me as long as i shim them to .050 ill be good. Im looking for more input there

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Your kidding yourself. I would totaly flycut for that cam anyway.

The1N_only

iTrader: (7)

well, if i have to fly cut, do you think i could get away with 2.02 valves then??? the questions lol

The1N_only

iTrader: (7)

anyone know what springs i should run?

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

The car will very rarely ever get road raced, mostly 1/4 mile racing and drifting actually! Some autocrossing as well but the car has pretty low gearing. More on that in my next response but I hear what you are saying.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

1. Stock heads for now and stock CR... LS1 intake but later on plan to go with a LS6.
2. T56 with 4.08 gears and pretty small tires. I don't know their exact size but they are a lot smaller than F-body tires so that will even make the gearing lower. The slicks I'm planning on running will be anywhere from 25" to 28", don't know what's going to fit yet.

The targeted weight for the car will be around 2200 to 2400 lbs.

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

You can flycut for whatever valves you use.
PRC duals on the springs.

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

What does the 110+4 mean, I'm assuming it's the LSA but I haven't seen one listed with +4 behind it before?

Ted J

iTrader: (4)

Ahh, so instead of having to advance the cam with the timing chain and sprokets you have it ground into the cam so that you install it straight up but it's 4 degree's advanced? Just making sure I understand it correctly.

DEMONLS1

advance ground in the cam

carado1984

well our wheels stock are like 26". Youll probably be sticking something like that in the rear because i know 240s can fit a decent tire i would run a 255 or 265 and 235 front but anyway.. i would get a midrange cam like a tsp torquer v2 because youll have more usable power through out the power band and youre not going to need as much to spin the tires on that 240. It also will let you pick from a larger variety of heads than a trex which without flycutting can only use heads with stock sized valves. Or even better buy heads and have a custom cam made so your getting all your moneys worth

1999 SS

iTrader: (3)

i used to have a comp cams 228 232 xer .58x .58x 112lsa and once it it hit about 3500rpm it was like flipping a light witch and the acceleration woud through you back hard but still be docile enough to drive down low.

PREDATOR-Z

His title said hardest pulling. Everyone knows you can't have 1 cam fits all.
Otherwise title should say "what kinda cam could drag, autox and road race"
I know of some poeple using G5X3 for that purpose.