Most economical cam package??
11-01-2006, 12:57 PM
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Most economical cam package?? What is the most economical cam package going right now? Just after more power, decent drivability, and plenty of lope. Whats the minimum lift or duration that will really start to have that "cam" sound? Also, if you could, what are some of the "hidden" expenses of swapping the cam?? Any special tools needed? ( I searched a while but still only got bits and pieces ) Thanks for the help.
11-01-2006, 01:02 PM
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The low mileage one sold in the Parts For Sale section.
Lope comes from LSA...not lift. Sounds like you need to take a 1/2 hour and read the cam sticky at the top of this forum. Search a little too. Then, you might answer your own questions.
Lope comes from LSA...not lift. Sounds like you need to take a 1/2 hour and read the cam sticky at the top of this forum. Search a little too. Then, you might answer your own questions.
11-01-2006, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
The low mileage one sold in the Parts For Sale section.
Lope comes from LSA...not lift. Sounds like you need to take a 1/2 hour and read the cam sticky at the top of this forum. Search a little too. Then, you might answer your own questions.
Lope comes from LSA...not lift. Sounds like you need to take a 1/2 hour and read the cam sticky at the top of this forum. Search a little too. Then, you might answer your own questions.
11-01-2006, 09:45 PM
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The most economical package out there that I've seen is the GM Hot Cam Kit. Most people don't care for it since there are much better grinds on the market, but it sounds great and makes decent power.
11-01-2006, 09:47 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Black04A4
The most economical package out there that I've seen is the GM Hot Cam Kit. Most people don't care for it since there are much better grinds on the market, but it sounds great and makes decent power.
Cams don't effect your gas milage as much as you would think.
Search this topic. Lots of this same thread.
11-01-2006, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by KrisXpc
How do you figure that?
Cams don't effect your gas milage as much as you would think.
Search this topic. Lots of this same thread.
Cams don't effect your gas milage as much as you would think.
Search this topic. Lots of this same thread.
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11-02-2006, 02:00 AM
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don't go hot cam, go bigger because you will more than likely want more performance than the hot cam and you can go a little bigger and never notice the difference in drivability
11-02-2006, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I thought LSA is part of measuring overlap? Isn't that why higher LSA cams don't really lope compared to lower LSA cams (ie. - 117lsa vs. 110lsa)???
11-02-2006, 05:05 AM
#11
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Lope comes from LSA...not lift. Sounds like you need to take a 1/2 hour and read the cam sticky at the top of this forum. Search a little too. Then, you might answer your own questions.
Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
Actually, lope comes from overlap, not LSA.
Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
I thought LSA is part of measuring overlap? Isn't that why higher LSA cams don't really lope compared to lower LSA cams (ie. - 117lsa vs. 110lsa)???
Not all of that is true in determining lope. I have a 115 cam that hits really-really hard. Duration and Lobe Separation determine how hard it will lope. Or overlap if you will. Here is a break down that I gave brady346:
Here is the cam:237/242 .595/.595 on 112
Here is how you find out what the overlap is. The more positive overlap you have the more inconsistent the cam will sound (chop/lope). The LS6 cam is like -16° overlap. That is why it will sound stock over this 237/242 cam.
Take the durations Intake/Exhaust 237 & 242.
Add them together for a grand total of 479.
Now take 479 and divide it by 2.
479/2 = 239.5
239.5 is the avg of the two durations.
Now take the LSA and multiply it by 2.
112 x 2 = 224
Subtract 224 from 239.5
15.5° of overlap is the result.
Hope this clears things up.
Last edited by orangeapeel; 11-02-2006 at 05:23 AM.
11-02-2006, 05:08 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Black04A4
The most economical package out there that I've seen is the GM Hot Cam Kit. Most people don't care for it since there are much better grinds on the market, but it sounds great and makes decent power.
11-02-2006, 06:49 AM
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Economical in initial purchase price....or economical in long term cost?
I'd say a good combination of the two would be the Thunder RAcing 224 cam. Fairly mild cam with decent lope and has made 400 rwhp on several cars with alllllll of the bolt ons.
Great daily driver, fairly mild lobes, decent cam lope, tunes easy, makes power. The fairly mild lobes should let you run the valvesprings longer...might be more economical in the long run.
I'd say a good combination of the two would be the Thunder RAcing 224 cam. Fairly mild cam with decent lope and has made 400 rwhp on several cars with alllllll of the bolt ons.
Great daily driver, fairly mild lobes, decent cam lope, tunes easy, makes power. The fairly mild lobes should let you run the valvesprings longer...might be more economical in the long run.
11-02-2006, 08:24 AM
#14
Originally Posted by NOBR8KSS
Economical in initial purchase price....or economical in long term cost?
I'd say a good combination of the two would be the Thunder RAcing 224 cam. Fairly mild cam with decent lope and has made 400 rwhp on several cars with alllllll of the bolt ons.
Great daily driver, fairly mild lobes, decent cam lope, tunes easy, makes power. The fairly mild lobes should let you run the valvesprings longer...might be more economical in the long run.
I'd say a good combination of the two would be the Thunder RAcing 224 cam. Fairly mild cam with decent lope and has made 400 rwhp on several cars with alllllll of the bolt ons.
Great daily driver, fairly mild lobes, decent cam lope, tunes easy, makes power. The fairly mild lobes should let you run the valvesprings longer...might be more economical in the long run.
11-02-2006, 02:25 PM
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Thank you for the replies. I called Thunder Racing and being his car is an A4 they really dont want to steer me in any direction being it doesnt have a stall yet. A stall will no doubt be in his plans, but not yet. Will a hotcam or TR224 12 or 14 lsa work "ok" with the factory stall? I know that to take advantage of a cam your stall needs to match. But if he wants to do cam 1st..? Will a HotCam have a noticeable idle? He wants to hear it, and he wants some more power. Budget is tight though so I may steer him towards the HotCam being its a cheap package (Provided it has a "sound" like he is after, and what type of gain could he expect?)
11-02-2006, 05:52 PM
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The problem with a cam in a stock-stalled car is down low and going from park to drive. You need the motor to idle higher because of the cam. If you want to know what it'll be like, the next time you're about to put your car in drive....bring the revs up to 800. That's the easiest way to show you.
11-06-2006, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Stall it first. You will have more power just off the stock cam. Don't waste the time/money/effort on getting a pansy cam from the get-go.