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High lift cams too harsh for DD?

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Old 11-19-2006, 11:03 AM
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Default High lift cams too harsh for DD?

Just curious, will the high lift of the torquer 3 (231/234 .643/.598 111 or 112) cam be too harsh on the engine for a DD car? Ive read a couple of posts where people say its fine but they will have to get new valve springs every 10k miles. is this true? Also what is the advantage of a high lift (.643 for the t3) vs. the the lift on the t2(.595/.598)?

One little quick n20 question too, isnt wider lobe separation better for n20 setups?
Old 11-19-2006, 11:11 AM
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Spring tech has improved well lately and you can expect a good 25K before you change springs (check the NEW Patriot dual springs).
DD is relative to your degree of tolerance. Some poeple say no issue and some don't care for such cams in DD. With a good tune, the T3 is tolerable and even more docile than the T2.
As for the wider LSA, no. An exhaust biased cam is preferable for BIG shots otherwise choose your cam for your NA needs and just spray it.
Old 11-19-2006, 12:39 PM
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as long as you run a good quality spring, and keep them far away from coil bind, you should not have any problems.
Old 11-19-2006, 01:46 PM
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MS4 here and it really daily drives like a champ very close to stock driving
Old 11-19-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Spring tech has improved well lately and you can expect a good 25K before you change springs (check the NEW Patriot dual springs).
DD is relative to your degree of tolerance. Some poeple say no issue and some don't care for such cams in DD. With a good tune, the T3 is tolerable and even more docile than the T2.
As for the wider LSA, no. An exhaust biased cam is preferable for BIG shots otherwise choose your cam for your NA needs and just spray it.
Great info as always, thanks alot. With the t3 wouldnt i lose more low end torque though? im looking for a cam for a street car. I just want to go big enough to put me in the high 12's bottom 11's on motor and still have some low end torque. I originally planned on the ms3 but figured losing all the low end torque on a street car would suck.
and for n20 a more exhaust biased cam might be the 233/239 (.595/.603)? And if i spray on a regular non-exhaust biased cam its not like ill get low nitrous numbers just not as high as if i were to spray and exhaust biased cam?


Originally Posted by JPH
as long as you run a good quality spring, and keep them far away from coil bind, you should not have any problems.
is coil blind not giving the springs enough time to warm up?
Old 11-19-2006, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rickyracer25
MS4 here and it really daily drives like a champ very close to stock driving
What he said, only steeper rear gears would be a little easy on stop and go traffic
Old 11-19-2006, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NxLS1496
Great info as always, thanks alot. With the t3 wouldnt i lose more low end torque though? im looking for a cam for a street car. I just want to go big enough to put me in the high 12's bottom 11's on motor and still have some low end torque. I originally planned on the ms3 but figured losing all the low end torque on a street car would suck.
and for n20 a more exhaust biased cam might be the 233/239 (.595/.603)? And if i spray on a regular non-exhaust biased cam its not like ill get low nitrous numbers just not as high as if i were to spray and exhaust biased cam?
I don't see you loosing any low- end TQ by going with the T3 over a T2. The 3 uses a LSK intake lobe, which is faster to .200" than the XE-R of the T2. Hypothetically, this should build more low-end. As for the wide LSA, I wouldn't choose something like that unless you are planning on a spray only application. If you plan to do alot of N/A driving with occasional spray's, you should choose the cam to meet you N/A needs. Just keep a traditional foward split, but maybe add 4* of advance.



Originally Posted by NxLS1496
is coil blind not giving the springs enough time to warm up?
Each brand of spring has a set limit that it can be compressed. This is the coil bind of the spring. If your cam's lift encrouches on this area, your liable to wear the springs out quicker because your taking the spring to it's bind point.
Old 11-20-2006, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Beast96Z
I don't see you loosing any low- end TQ by going with the T3 over a T2. The 3 uses a LSK intake lobe, which is faster to .200" than the XE-R of the T2. Hypothetically, this should build more low-end. As for the wide LSA, I wouldn't choose something like that unless you are planning on a spray only application. If you plan to do alot of N/A driving with occasional spray's, you should choose the cam to meet you N/A needs. Just keep a traditional foward split, but maybe add 4* of advance.
Correct, as I mentioned, the T3 is better under the curve because of the reasons above. You do not need wide LSA to spray, you need correct valve events. In the T3 111LSA, it is enough exhaust biased to run well on spray.


Each brand of spring has a set limit that it can be compressed. This is the coil bind of the spring. If your cam's lift encrouches on this area, your liable to wear the springs out quicker because your taking the spring to it's bind point.
basicaly reaching coilbind will eventualy break the spring.
Old 11-20-2006, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Correct, as I mentioned, the T3 is better under the curve because of the reasons above. You do not need wide LSA to spray, you need correct valve events. In the T3 111LSA, it is enough exhaust biased to run well on spray.




basicaly reaching coilbind will eventualy break the spring.
How bad will the t3 on a 111 be for an a4 dd? should i go 112?
Old 11-20-2006, 11:53 AM
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Depends on the tuner
Old 11-20-2006, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Depends on the tuner
il probably be using jeremy formato. going to get it done right.
Old 11-20-2006, 02:50 PM
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Drove my .595/.595 232/232 with a stock converter for a while with no problems.
Old 11-20-2006, 02:52 PM
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i drive every day on a 236/242 601. 610 on a 113 lsa dual valve springs all that good stuff and i love it...
Old 11-20-2006, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NxLS1496
il probably be using jeremy formato. going to get it done right.

hell ya he tuned my car hes realy good at what he does.
Old 11-20-2006, 06:12 PM
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So you guys think that by running the right spring, running a full LSK lobed cam wouldn't be a big deal for longevity?

I'm glad I saw this thread because i've been trying to decide between XE-R with a single spring (lighter) or LSK with a dual spring (heavier). What should I do?
Old 11-20-2006, 06:20 PM
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This is a great thread. Lots of good info!
Old 11-20-2006, 06:47 PM
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correct, use the right spring, set them up corectly (corect inst. height) and drive on. (good to heat cycle new springs first)
Old 11-20-2006, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
So you guys think that by running the right spring, running a full LSK lobed cam wouldn't be a big deal for longevity?

I'm glad I saw this thread because i've been trying to decide between XE-R with a single spring (lighter) or LSK with a dual spring (heavier). What should I do?
I don't see the LSK's being a problem. With either lobe, I'd use dual springs. XE-R lobes are pretty rough in there own way, and the LSK is rough in it's own way. The LSK lobe has more under curve area, so it should produce more power givin the correct application. Just make sure you get a spring with adequate pressure and shim it to .050-.060" of coil bind.
Old 11-20-2006, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by mattraypharbor
i drive every day on a 236/242 601. 610 on a 113 lsa dual valve springs all that good stuff and i love it...
pm'ed.
Old 11-20-2006, 10:34 PM
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i drive my 232/234 .595/.598 112 every day in traffic no problems so far.. next month comes heads/intake . these cars with a good tune are very driveable!!!!




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