The Black Mamba

I was wondering, would I be able to drive an 02 SS 50miles away for a tune? I was thinking of doing LS6 heads, a 231/237 or similar cam, headers with eletric cutout, and a n2O setup before that, it will be tuned all at the same time, but n2O won't be used until the rear-end is redone and I get more money to get bottle warmer and other stuff.

EDIT: I would am also going to do ported TB here shortly. I already have lid/k&n filter.

rickyracer25

iTrader: (11)

yeah just go slow and keep the rpms down, also don't consider the drive part of your break in time.

The Black Mamba

What is the proper break in? I read that the computer should learn the cam after 100-200 miles, is that good?

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

It just needs to sit there and idle to learn the cam in the driveway. It might take a few minutes. The further from stock the cam is the worse it will be most likely. That PCM is not going to learn a new cam.

pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

From what ive heard, cams in ls1's really don't need any special break in. But, I have heard it is very important to heat cycle the springs a few times before abusing them. Basically, get the car up to heat, maybe drive it arounda little bit keeping the rpms low, then let it cool completely and repeat. You should be fine driving 50 miles unless you are going with an extreme setup.

prostock_bigblock

iTrader: (11)

agree with above post.

sidewayz28

iTrader: (24)

eh.. i opened it up about an hour after the install no problems so far *knock on wood*. i drove from seattle to close to portland oregon for my dyno tune no problems. it took about 2-3 hours going down I-5 south 70-80 mph the whole way

chomper

roller cams like ours dont need quite the break in as a hydraulic cam does

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

It is a hydraulic cam.

00TAProject

From what I have read:

After a cam install for the 1st tim eout no revs over 4k that way the valve springs heat treat themselve? Then after that you are good to go....BUT without a tune you should be fine with regular driving and acceleration.

Once tuned, you should be good to go WOT......Now I maybe wrong, but that is just what I read when I first signed up on Tech.....

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

just heat cycle the springs and you will be fine. there is no real break in for the cam in our cars. it will probably run like **** since youre doing all the mods at once, and gas mileage will suck, but you will be fine to drive it. as long as you cycle the springs and it will idle after the heads/cam

The Black Mamba

Yeah. I am probably going to do nitrous and use that a few times before I attempt heads/cam. The only reason I was thinking about doing them all at once is the tuner I was thinking about going to is fairly far away, and is somewhat hard to get in. Not to mention it would be a lot cheaper.

pennys58

iTrader: (13)

Not to take over your thread, but I have a question as well. My car is currently tuned for a cam/bolt-ons and I will be having a set of MTI stage II heads installed either this weekend or the next. This is my daily driver....how soon after the install do I need to get my car re-tuned?

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

You will be fine i installed the MS3 in my car and a week later i drove it over 200 miles to Tampa so that Rev Xtreme could tune it.
-Joel

560SL

Maybe you should worry about getting a car before you plan out your mods/tuning.

Just a thought...FLAKE

dnm12

iTrader: (13)

make's you feel any better I have it tuned for cam but I drove 300 miles without a tune to get one, and when I throw the heads on, i will drive 300 miles to get tuned

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

You'll be fine without a tune for a little while. With my setup I drove it around a day or so on the stock tune and then about 125 miles to the place that tuned it. My car honestly ran fine before the tune. It idled perfect, didn't buck, it was really as good as you could ask for....surprised the hell outta me!

About the "break in" that people have been mentioning. I have read that the material used to manufacture todays springs don't require this "heat cycling" that people talk about. But, with that said, I still drove mine around the entire time before the tune without beating on it or going WOT any at all, since I didnt know what the AFR was at, or if I would experience knock retard. It's better safe than sorry.

As far as the cam goes, like others have mentioned, it's a roller cam, so just lube it up, get her warm, and let it eat