ARP head stud kit OR head bolt kit??
12-01-2006, 11:01 PM
#1
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ARP head stud kit OR head bolt kit?? I really dont know which to get for my head cam build up (MS3/PRC Terminators)
Some say dont skimp gets the studs....and some say use the head bolts...
the studs are so much more $$$...and I heard its a bitch to get the head on with them installed(the studs in the back of the block)....
can someone clear this up for me...are the studs THAT much better than the bolts?!?! I could use that extra cash for something else...but, if they are better, I will go for them...I do not want to skimp
Thanks
Some say dont skimp gets the studs....and some say use the head bolts...
the studs are so much more $$$...and I heard its a bitch to get the head on with them installed(the studs in the back of the block)....
can someone clear this up for me...are the studs THAT much better than the bolts?!?! I could use that extra cash for something else...but, if they are better, I will go for them...I do not want to skimp
Thanks
12-01-2006, 11:15 PM
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If you plan on takeing your heads off more than few times upgrading your motor then go with the studs. Studs give a truer torque of the heads to the block, but the bolts are a torque to yeild design. You probably will not gain that much on a street motor by useing the studs. Blower cars, turbos, and high compression motors would be a good canidate for the studs.
12-01-2006, 11:35 PM
#4
Originally Posted by 1997bird
If you plan on takeing your heads off more than few times upgrading your motor then go with the studs. Studs give a truer torque of the heads to the block, but the bolts are a torque to yeild design. You probably will not gain that much on a street motor by useing the studs. Blower cars, turbos, and high compression motors would be a good canidate for the studs.
The stock GM bolts are torque to yield, and can only be used once. However you can reuse the ARP bolts.
12-01-2006, 11:41 PM
#5
If you are putting heads/cam on a stock block, just do the ARP bolts. My reasoning for this is simple: it's cheaper and if/when you blow the block or want more cubes, upgrade to studs then, as you most likely will have a different block all together.
You can resuse the studs (and the bolts for that matter), but if you're asking the question now, you probably should budget for the bolts. Sure, buying both will cost more in the long run, but if you buy bolts now and it's 2 years before you upgrade and feel as if you need the studs, then you may not want to reuse the studs you buy now anyway and/or may have more money in time to upgrade to the studs. Of course, if you don't ever run a huge shot of nitrous, the bolts you buy now would work well even on the rebuild/stroker.
You can resuse the studs (and the bolts for that matter), but if you're asking the question now, you probably should budget for the bolts. Sure, buying both will cost more in the long run, but if you buy bolts now and it's 2 years before you upgrade and feel as if you need the studs, then you may not want to reuse the studs you buy now anyway and/or may have more money in time to upgrade to the studs. Of course, if you don't ever run a huge shot of nitrous, the bolts you buy now would work well even on the rebuild/stroker.
12-01-2006, 11:52 PM
#6
If you can see yourself pulling the heads a couple times in the future for whatever reasons, the studs are worth their weight in gold. With the studs you don't have to worry about getting the damn coolant out of the bolt holes as they stay in there. That saves you a good hour right there as well as some sanity. I got them for that and for the fact that they are inherently stronger... but mostly the former. Otherwise, just get the bolts.
12-02-2006, 12:39 AM
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The heads really aren't that hard to get on with the studs in the block. I got the studs because of the possibility of running a shot of nitrous in the future and if I ever have to take the heads off, I won't have to clean out the holes in the block like Arctic already stated. And both the ARP studs and bolts are reusable, only the stock GM bolts are TTY.
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12-02-2006, 12:45 AM
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first off, my best advice to you is to not do a head/cam swap in car. just pull the motor, because you have to do rod bolts anyways.
secondly, i bought ARP head studs ONLY because i knew id be replacing the heads on it at least once, and im going to be spraying a healthy dose of nitrous so ill probably blow headgaskets also.
unless you are going to spray a lot (ie have forged pistons) or going to boost it. GM stock bolts should be fine. ive never heard of anyone having any problems with one of the big cams and stock headbolts. IMO the price diffrence could be much better spent elsewhere.
secondly, i bought ARP head studs ONLY because i knew id be replacing the heads on it at least once, and im going to be spraying a healthy dose of nitrous so ill probably blow headgaskets also.
unless you are going to spray a lot (ie have forged pistons) or going to boost it. GM stock bolts should be fine. ive never heard of anyone having any problems with one of the big cams and stock headbolts. IMO the price diffrence could be much better spent elsewhere.
12-02-2006, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Grimes
The stock GM bolts are torque to yield, and can only be used once. However you can reuse the ARP bolts.
12-02-2006, 12:44 PM
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I already have a GM bolt kit that game with my gasket kit...maybe I will just use those, save some $....I am not spraying...
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
12-02-2006, 01:09 PM
#12
Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
I already have a GM bolt kit that game with my gasket kit...maybe I will just use those, save some $....I am not spraying...
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
Is there a special method of torquing I have to use when using the GM bolts? Or do I just torque to spec?
Erik
12-03-2006, 06:23 PM
#18
I went with head studs for a couple of reasons:
First I got a great deal on them, $180 shipped, new from a board member.
Second, I am going to be doing the head swap with the motor in the car, so doing the torque to yeild sequence sucks.
Third, as stated, it sucks cleaning out bolt holes in the block each time, and I was always afraid that I'd miss a little bit in one of the holes and snap a bolt in the block or strip the threads.
Finally, if I do decide to swap heads again, I can rest assured I'm not hurting the block by going through that torque sequence too many times on the block. Plus, in the end, I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. It's the same concept of using the right tool to put a crank pulley on as oppsed to trying to use a bolt to pull it on and running the risk of stripping the crank threads. I plan on using header studs as well, as I've already ruined three different bolt holes from swapping headers three times. Lessons learned.
First I got a great deal on them, $180 shipped, new from a board member.
Second, I am going to be doing the head swap with the motor in the car, so doing the torque to yeild sequence sucks.
Third, as stated, it sucks cleaning out bolt holes in the block each time, and I was always afraid that I'd miss a little bit in one of the holes and snap a bolt in the block or strip the threads.
Finally, if I do decide to swap heads again, I can rest assured I'm not hurting the block by going through that torque sequence too many times on the block. Plus, in the end, I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. It's the same concept of using the right tool to put a crank pulley on as oppsed to trying to use a bolt to pull it on and running the risk of stripping the crank threads. I plan on using header studs as well, as I've already ruined three different bolt holes from swapping headers three times. Lessons learned.
12-03-2006, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
I went with head studs for a couple of reasons:
First I got a great deal on them, $180 shipped, new from a board member.
Second, I am going to be doing the head swap with the motor in the car, so doing the torque to yeild sequence sucks.
Third, as stated, it sucks cleaning out bolt holes in the block each time, and I was always afraid that I'd miss a little bit in one of the holes and snap a bolt in the block or strip the threads.
Finally, if I do decide to swap heads again, I can rest assured I'm not hurting the block by going through that torque sequence too many times on the block. Plus, in the end, I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. It's the same concept of using the right tool to put a crank pulley on as oppsed to trying to use a bolt to pull it on and running the risk of stripping the crank threads. I plan on using header studs as well, as I've already ruined three different bolt holes from swapping headers three times. Lessons learned.
First I got a great deal on them, $180 shipped, new from a board member.
Second, I am going to be doing the head swap with the motor in the car, so doing the torque to yeild sequence sucks.
Third, as stated, it sucks cleaning out bolt holes in the block each time, and I was always afraid that I'd miss a little bit in one of the holes and snap a bolt in the block or strip the threads.
Finally, if I do decide to swap heads again, I can rest assured I'm not hurting the block by going through that torque sequence too many times on the block. Plus, in the end, I'd rather spend a little now than a lot later. It's the same concept of using the right tool to put a crank pulley on as oppsed to trying to use a bolt to pull it on and running the risk of stripping the crank threads. I plan on using header studs as well, as I've already ruined three different bolt holes from swapping headers three times. Lessons learned.
You got them for a steal...I didnt have the extra cash, so I opted for the head bolts...better than stock, but not the best, right in the middle...so you cant beat that....
also, I am not going to take the heads off...not after all of this freakin work..I already promised myself and my biggest car fan (my dad) that the next thing we both do to my SS is a big cubed motor...
I cleaned the bolt holes with compressed air..and next I will go through them with a nice wire pipe cleaner, and then air again...plus I will use moly lube...
I agree also with the header studs, it makes it easy to just hang the headers...BUT, its $$ that I really do not have...
to give you guys an idea, not only am I installing $2000 worth of valvetrain upgrades and heads...I also have to replace my t56 and clutch...soo I have to plan accordingly!
Thanks to all who replied!