help me in heads/cam install?
#1
help me in heads/cam install?
i'm now at the crank pulley, how to remove the crank pulley? my car is 2000 LS1 camaro in the signature. also now i forgot which bolts go to where (forgot bolts places), i need also some help with that when i reinstall the heads and the intake manifold.
thanks.
thanks.
#2
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Originally Posted by Abdullah
i'm now at the crank pulley, how to remove the crank pulley? my car is 2000 LS1 camaro in the signature. also now i forgot which bolts go to where (forgot bolts places), i need also some help with that when i reinstall the heads and the intake manifold.
thanks.
thanks.
http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=5
Btw what is your setup this time Abdullah ?!
peace
#3
bad95killer, I always face a bad luck i wanted to do a 402 LS2 with hand ported 205 AFR heads and i encountered circumestances and i couldn't complete that 402 LS2, i keep these circumestances for my self.
now i'm doing self ported LS1 heads with stock valves, TSP 233/239 112 lsa cam, QTP 1-3/4" HVM race header, Borla catback, 90mm Fast intake ( i bought it from ls1tech member Dragaholic, thanks Dragaholic), Nick Williams 90mm Throttle body, HP tuners....etc. maybe i will get 85mm MAF and TSP 85mm lid.
right now i'm doing hand ported CNC'd 205 AFR heads by Chris Frank (NASTE_SS) i will put these heads later but i want to see how my porting for the stock heads will do? i will see that on the dyno.
now i'm doing self ported LS1 heads with stock valves, TSP 233/239 112 lsa cam, QTP 1-3/4" HVM race header, Borla catback, 90mm Fast intake ( i bought it from ls1tech member Dragaholic, thanks Dragaholic), Nick Williams 90mm Throttle body, HP tuners....etc. maybe i will get 85mm MAF and TSP 85mm lid.
right now i'm doing hand ported CNC'd 205 AFR heads by Chris Frank (NASTE_SS) i will put these heads later but i want to see how my porting for the stock heads will do? i will see that on the dyno.
Last edited by Abdullah; 12-16-2006 at 10:17 AM.
#5
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breaker bar with a 3 or 4 foot pipe extention. 3 jaw pulley. Old bolt with the flange ground off so it fits inside the pulley. The puller presses against the ground down bolt.
Are you flycutting your pistons and milling your heads? I would highly suggest doing it. Even if home ported heads dont flow big numbers, you can really notice some gains by bumping up the compression.
Are you flycutting your pistons and milling your heads? I would highly suggest doing it. Even if home ported heads dont flow big numbers, you can really notice some gains by bumping up the compression.
#7
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Originally Posted by Abdullah
GuitsBoy, how to flycut pistons? they told me that i will need a die grinder and a special bit. do you know what kind of special bit i will need for flycutting and how exactly to do it (flycutting)?
thanks.
thanks.
LG motorsports rents the flycutting tools.
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#9
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Dude, im sorry, I spent the last half hour scouring the internet for a good pic and especially the old flycutting howto, but I came up empty handed. The only thing I found was this: http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page17.pdf
#10
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Dude, im sorry, I spent the last half hour scouring the internet for a good pic and especially the old flycutting howto, but I came up empty handed. The only thing I found was this: http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page17.pdf
This was something I always wondered how they did it. How do you prevent getting shavings into the engine? Grease maybe.
Bill
Thanks.
#11
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One thing I always use instead of bucking the puller rod up against the bolt or a piece of threaded rod is to use a BIG allen head cap screw with a coupe of large flat washers under the head of the cap screw. The puller rod tip goes into the hex shaped recess of the cap screw forcing the puller rod to be self-centering. The OD of the flat washers must be slightly smaller than the OD of the crank. You'll need a large 3 leg puller, about 8". Posi-Lock is by far the best brand as one person can install it by themsleves whereas the others require help to keep all the legs in place while the rod is tightened down. One person doesn't have enough hands to do all that. You also need a LONG breaker bar, say 4' or more. You also need something to keep the pulley from turning while you loosen the bolt. I use a chain wrench. You can get one at any good plumbing supply house.
#13
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I just rented a tool from LGM. it should arrive here on tuesday. I'll post some pics for you, as well as some pics of what Im goin to go through to get it done. but the directions on here are right on with what Ive seen/read/asked about when I talked to the guys at LGM. it really doesnt look hard, just time consuming. there price was $180 or $160, forgot exactly now. but, you also have to pay a $300 core charge that you'll get returned when the tool arrives safely back to them. not sure how the price would differ since your not in the states. and, not sure what size valves are in your afr heads, but if your planning on installing those next, you should flycut the pistons for the bigger valves so you dont have to do it again. who ever yuor renting the tool from should get you the correct size cutter for that valve size. basically it just has to be a bigger cutter then the size of the valve to be used.