Toasty

iTrader: (13)

I'm deciding which of these to put into my DD, but I'm also worried that I won't fully utilize the powerband what I choose. I don't foresee myself spinning it up past 6500, just because I don't have the motor built for it. I wanted to go with a G5x2 or G5x3 because of their proven power, but after looking at the DCR on a stock motor, I'm worried I won't be getting what I'm really looking for.

I'm looking for around 400hp/380ft-lbs, but not necessarily something that needs ALOT of revs to make power. Looking for something in the 230's i/e and about .600 lift.

Car is my daily driver, probably 20k miles a year, with a good amount of stop and go every day.

Thanks!

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

224/228 .581 .588 111 LSA 109 ICL XE-R lobes would be a decent DD cam. 4 degrees overlap close to being centered over TDC, while keeping DCR at 8.21 which will help out your low end for daily driving.

gts500

hmmm... it depends if your car trns a4 or m6?

but for daily drive manners i choose tr224 112lsa its one of the best dd in the world cuz its not about how much horse power you will get its about when you will getting it

so g5x2 x3 its need alot of mods like stall for auto and finaldrive for both. cuz the power band is too high so you will sacrifise alot in the low mid rpm

my advise BIGGER DOESNT MEAN BETTER so go fo a cam fit your application like

224-228 or go for crane cam 230-232 i think and the lift is 600.

but still my advise is go for somthing dd without any hassle and has a great power band all over the rpm like the one above 224-228 581-588 but with lobe like 114-112 for dd manners and less shaky car. do a resarch in thunder racing and crane cams. but if u inssist to go for lgmotorsport go fo gx2 not G5X2. i hope this will help yaa

so good luck with your mods

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

The cam i mentioned does have great street manners, it only has 4 degrees of overlap. Overlap is what causes chop and all that not LSA alone. And that cam leaves enough DCR to allow good low end power for daily driving.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

It dosent matter what LSA you get the cam ground on, you just happen to come to an LSA to get the correct valve events. For example given the same lobes a 220/220 110 has the same overlap as the popular 224/224 112.

As for the LG cams I think you meant G5X2 and G5X3. Taking your advice he would run the X2 on lets say a 112 (what the majority of people run) in comparison to the X3 on the popular 114 (what most run it on becuase of possible PtoV issues) when the X3 acually has less overlap and should have better idle and driving manners.

Nemo02Z

I dont mean to piggyyback or hijack this thread but i need to know also..I am riding the short bus on this so on a daily driver where would you want the power of a cam to kick in low end or high end? DONAIMIAN so are you saying to run the X2 at 112. Help me understand because I would like to stick a cam in my 2002 Z and have no idea at what point I would run into piston to valve issues.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

For daily driving you typically want to retain some low end power so you can get moving from idle and through the first few thousand RPM's.

Nemo02Z

so is it lower the lobe seperation better as in 112 or 114...

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

LSA is not the big picture. Overlap is what causes your choppiness, and intake valve closing is what causes a loss of DCR which results in low end power loss. Use a DCR calculator and try different values and see what happens. You can run a 111 LSA and still have good valve events all though the power range.

RAACCR

I've got a Comp XER 224/228 .581"/.588" @ 111 +2 (109 ICL). Great daily driver cam! Just lumpy enough at idle to know you've got a cam, plus nice driveability with great torque down low and through the mid-range. I've got a '99 LS1 (with weak rod bolts and crappy oiling), so I shift at 6500 rpm; rev limiter is set at 6600 rpm. I also have 62cc Patriot 243 heads and .040" Cometics, for some additional compression. If I were using stock heads and gaskets, I would even consider closing up the lobe separation to 110, still 2 degrees advanced for a 108 ICL...that would help bump the DCR a little more, and still pull strong to 6500.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

I bet it works real nice with those small chamber heads too. Great low and high end power as well as also having the nice cam sound. Good stuff.

bsf

iTrader: (7)

I am still a “newbie”. That being said, I have spent way too much time researching cam selection. In my opinion, Patrick Guerra is one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people on this website on this topic. You may want to consider utilizing his knowledge. He helped me, along with countless others with this process. He is now charging a small fee for formal custom cam shaft consultation, but he indicates that the fee can be deducted from the cost of the cam if you use one of his vendors. I am providing the link below.

To order a custom camshaft, press here.

By the way, the cam I ordered for my mild mannered street car project is a nominal 224/228 .581/.588 110+0. Good luck.

Toasty

iTrader: (13)

Can you post up your numbers/dyno sheet? Just like to know what exactly "great torque down low through mid" really means. I'd like to be able to run 11's at full weight through a 9" with my M6.

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

It looks like you want a fairly small cam, and to run that number at full weight with that cam you might need to throw heads into the picture.

RAACCR

Car has never been on a dyno. Not that it matters much; I've been around enough dynos & flowbenches to know how to make 'em spit out whatever numbers you'd like to see Still working on the tune-up; going Speed Density to clear up a little surge right off idle. As for my impression of low to midrange torque, I can go WOT at 70mph in 6th gear (~1500 rpm) and it pulls noticable stronger than it did stock. (I'm sure my added compression helps out, especially way down low.) That's with 227cc intake ports that everybody claims will kill your bottom end And it pulls stronger and stronger as the revs rise, all the way to my 6600 rpm limiter.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

G5X3 if your going for 400 rwhp on a stock headed bolt on car.

bennettrp

I'm running the G5X3 and just got my tune to where I could dyno it. The torque curve really starts to flatten out at 2400 rpm. Climbing pretty quick up til that point.

TORCHD 02 TA

iTrader: (39)

can somone point me in the right direction? i have spent a good 4 days reading all this. It is slowly sinking in...

My mods are in my sig. I am sticking with STOCK NON P&P HEADS. Car is not a DD anymore. I want low end tq, nice pull through mid and top end..

anyways.. i was thinking:

TR224, TRak or Comp XER

I am still confused about DRC and degreeing the cam (+2) what kind of DRC do i want?

What other question do i need to ask

N4cer

iTrader: (11)

Comp XE-R what? XE-R is a lobe type, not a full cam.

RAACCR

The most important event in choosing a camshaft is determining when the intake valve closes.

If you are leaving everything else in the motor stock (shortblock, heads, headgaskets), your intake valve closing (IVC) point is the only tool you'll have to affect your DCR. (You won't be able to make your DCR too high with just a cam swap unless you close the intake valve crazy early!) IVC will also be the biggest determining factor affecting where in the rpm range your motor makes power. The earlier you close the valve, the higher your DCR and the more low to mid range power. Conversely, the later you close the intake valve, the lower the DCR and more top end power.

The intake manifold design will try to force a torque peak around 4800rpm, and a horsepower peak around 6200rpm. You can vary your IVC to move this up or down slightly, but you don't want to go too far in either direction or you'll wind up with a mismatch of components that are "fighting" each other. Pick a cam with an IVC around 40 degrees after bottom dead center (ABDC) @ 0.050" for best low end to mid range. Or, try one with a IVC around 45 degrees ABDC (@ 0.050") for a top end monster.