cam install help!!!!!
01-24-2007, 08:06 AM
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cam install help!!!!! ok here's the deal i went with a set of PRC 220cc 5.3L stage 2.5 ported heads and a torquer v3 camshaft. Now from my understanding and the research i've done PVC is good with this combo, no need to flycut or nothing right? also i'm not sure if i should stick with the stock length pushrods or go with 7.425" all feedback will be appreciated. which head gasket should i go with for this setup. also i plan on doing the cam and heads install myself with the help from a few friends neither of us has ever done this before, but i feel confident that i can do it with the help from the forum and the ls1howto.com. i've have read the whole article on ls1howto.com on the cam a valve swap. Now my question is, in the write up it talks about cam alignment dowel what is this? Now from my understanding all i have to do is line to cam gear dot up with the crank gear dot and make sure the cam alignment dowel line up with the cam gear. Then once all is lined up go ahead and seat the cam gear.Is this correct? I've heard from a couple of people that you don't have to use a degree wheel just as long as you install using the dot to dot method. Is this true? hopefully all of you cam install techs will chime in and help me on this matter, because i would really like to do this project myself to gain the experience not to mention the satisfaction of knowing you done it yourself.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
01-24-2007, 08:12 AM
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heres how to do it the "right" way.
Clay the engine with one head assembled and a stock head gasket. If the valves hit then you need to flycut, if they dont hit you can then see how thin of a head gasket you can go with. After installing the gasket you want to go with, install a pushrod checker and it will tell you exactly what your rocker to lifter distance is, then add lifter preload to get what size rods you need.
Clay instructions
http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...eClearance.asp
The alignment dowel just allows the cam sproket to sit in the proper position on the cam end. After you bolt the sproket on then you line up the cam dot with the crank dot.
You dont have to degree the cam, but it is a good idea to do to verify ICL. Sometimes all the cam parts combines can cause a slight variation in the ICL.
Clay the engine with one head assembled and a stock head gasket. If the valves hit then you need to flycut, if they dont hit you can then see how thin of a head gasket you can go with. After installing the gasket you want to go with, install a pushrod checker and it will tell you exactly what your rocker to lifter distance is, then add lifter preload to get what size rods you need.
Clay instructions
http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...eClearance.asp
The alignment dowel just allows the cam sproket to sit in the proper position on the cam end. After you bolt the sproket on then you line up the cam dot with the crank dot.
You dont have to degree the cam, but it is a good idea to do to verify ICL. Sometimes all the cam parts combines can cause a slight variation in the ICL.
01-24-2007, 09:07 AM
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Most shops recommend the 7.4" pushrod as stock is 7.38ish... this "should" account for the smaller base circle of the cam and give you correct pre-load. Through researching on here it seems that many are going with a 7.425" pushrod for a little more pre-load and a quieter valve-train. Too little and you'll get excessive clatter, too much and your valves wont' close fully.
FWIW I just installed a G5-X2 cam and used the 7.4" hardened Comp rods that came w/ the kit. I also installed Yella Terra full roller rockers and the car is ultra quiet (valvetrain wise). It's actualy quieter than my father's stock '04 Z06... I was at his house this weekend to compare.
The "right" way to do it is to get an adjustable pushrod length checker and order the proper pushrods... in my case I allready had the kit, trusted LG's knowhow, and ended up a very happy camper.
I followed LS1howto.com and it wasn't bad at all... I've swapped valve springs, installed all my bolt-ons, and my oil cooler... so this was a new level of wrenching for me on the Vette (I've taken the 22R in my toyota beater apart before). Have confidence, go slow, and when in doubt check on here or check the howto site.
Reguarding dot to dot... you get the crank dot pointing at 12 o'clock... then try to orient the cam so that when you slip on the cam gear (with chain) the cam gear is at 6 o'clock and they point at each other. The cam gear can only go on the cam one way because of the allignment dowl on the end of the cam... it'll make sense when you see it. Furthermore, when trying to allign them if it's off you'll know it... they'll never come close to lining up becuae it'll always be a tooth off. If they look close but not perfect try rotating the crank again and watch as the dots come into allignment, you may find that you didn't have the crank dot right at 12.
Unless you buy an adjustable timing set (which our cars don't come with) there's really no point in degreeing because you can't adjust anything.... you can however verify that your cam was ground correctly. Me... I trusted LG's grind (yes I know comp grinds them to LGs specs) and moved forward w/ the dot-to-dot install and a LS2 timing chain on my stock sprockets.
Good luck!
FWIW I just installed a G5-X2 cam and used the 7.4" hardened Comp rods that came w/ the kit. I also installed Yella Terra full roller rockers and the car is ultra quiet (valvetrain wise). It's actualy quieter than my father's stock '04 Z06... I was at his house this weekend to compare.
The "right" way to do it is to get an adjustable pushrod length checker and order the proper pushrods... in my case I allready had the kit, trusted LG's knowhow, and ended up a very happy camper.
I followed LS1howto.com and it wasn't bad at all... I've swapped valve springs, installed all my bolt-ons, and my oil cooler... so this was a new level of wrenching for me on the Vette (I've taken the 22R in my toyota beater apart before). Have confidence, go slow, and when in doubt check on here or check the howto site.
Reguarding dot to dot... you get the crank dot pointing at 12 o'clock... then try to orient the cam so that when you slip on the cam gear (with chain) the cam gear is at 6 o'clock and they point at each other. The cam gear can only go on the cam one way because of the allignment dowl on the end of the cam... it'll make sense when you see it. Furthermore, when trying to allign them if it's off you'll know it... they'll never come close to lining up becuae it'll always be a tooth off. If they look close but not perfect try rotating the crank again and watch as the dots come into allignment, you may find that you didn't have the crank dot right at 12.
Unless you buy an adjustable timing set (which our cars don't come with) there's really no point in degreeing because you can't adjust anything.... you can however verify that your cam was ground correctly. Me... I trusted LG's grind (yes I know comp grinds them to LGs specs) and moved forward w/ the dot-to-dot install and a LS2 timing chain on my stock sprockets.
Good luck!
01-24-2007, 05:30 PM
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damn i love this forum. It's full of guys that really want to help one another out. Thanks a lot for the info guys, it truly is a blessing to have the help. it's 630 at night and i'm ready to got install the v3 now lol, but anyway thanks again for the help.
