OBSSSD

From the reading I've done it seems as though the 10W40 will give me more protection running in the Texas heat. I drive my car hard and run high oil temps. The car sees 6600-6700 on a daily basis. I am currently using the regular Royal Purple 10W-30 multi-viscosity synthetic and I'm considering switching to the RP Racing 41 (10W40) in order to increase both the amount of protection under abuse at high oil temps and to increase my oil chanmge intervals from 3,000 to 5,000 or so.

Can anyone give me some feedback that is technically sound that making this change will accomplish these two things. If so, I don't have issues spending the $$$ on the RP #41.

I am very happy with the RP 10w-30. It eliminated almost all of the piston slap when the motor is first started whether warm or cold. I was just wondering if I could take another step up by going to the full race formula in the heavier weight.

Thanks

Patman

The one problem I have with 10w40 is the fact that it uses more VI Improvers to span that larger gap. So therefore it's not as good of an oil for longer drains, the VI improvers leave behind varnish when they break down. Plus, more VI improvers are also bad since these chemicals have no lubricating qualities.

Why not switch to Redline 10w30? It could handle the heat very well and the extended intervals and will not break down very easily. It uses a much stronger base stock (polyol esters) plus contains a lot of moly which will give you an extra layer of protection when at high rpms.

gwj

I'm thinking about a Mobil 1 10w30/ 15w50 mix until I use up the 10w30 I have. Maybe 5qts 10w30 to 1 qt 15w50.
My hot idle oil pressure has been steadily dropping this year-not sure how worried I am about that yet.
Ideally I think I would rather run a mix of 5w30/15w50 of some sort here in the heat.
I'm currently about 55K on the odometer.

OBSSSD

Should I use the race Redline 10W30 or the regular synthetic 10W30? Is there any difference other than the detergent addatives in the street oil?

Can I use 1 quart 15W50 to 5 quarts 10W30 when I change to Redline and see any additional benefit?

Thanks

MelloYellow

I was told not to use the Redline RACE oils unless you break down and rebuild your engine a lot.

Patman

Redline's race oils have a very low amount of detergents in them, so I wouldn't recommend them for street use at all.

OBSSSD@work

Will I see any benefit by using a small amount of higher viscosity Redline mixed in with the 10W30 when I change it? Or should I just stick with straight 10W30?

I run very high oil temps and I'm in Texas so it gets very hot here, especially in the summer.

Patman,

What do you think about using 15W40 in the summer?

Thanks again...

Patman

A lot of people run 15w40 in the hotter climates, although you will lose a little bit of power using that thicker oil, plus you'll lose a bit of gas mileage too. I'd still lean towards the Redline 10w30. If you feel comfortable, mixing in one quart of 15w40 probably wouldn't hurt though.

OBSSSD

Is there a substantial difference between 5W30 and 10W30 in Redline at operating temps? It would seem that if not the 5W30 would be the best bet. The fellow at Redline claims the 5W30 will not break down any faster than the 10W30 in abusive and hot climate conditions in an LS1.

Thanks Patman

Patman

Redline's 5w30 starts out with a thinner viscosity of 10.6cst at 100c, compared to it's 10w30 which is at 11.0. Also, I've seen oil analysis results in the same person's car, both at 7k, one with 5w30 Redline and one with 10w30 Redline and the 5w30 was quite a bit thinner. Based on that alone I wouldn't use the 5w30. Sometimes the tech reps at oil companies don't always know what happens in the real world. Once you start looking at oil analysis results, you can see what really happens to an oil once it's been in the engine for a while. All the testing these oil makers do mean nothing compared to real world results.

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gwj:
<strong>My hot idle oil pressure has been steadily dropping this year-not sure how worried I am about that yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Have you had a recent oil analysis done? I definitely would because you could have excessive bearing wear causing the lower pressure at idle. This happened when I had the stock 346 in my T/A, and when we pulled the engine for the 383 the bearings were worn BAD. My oil pressure at idle had decreased from 40-45 psi to ~35 psi at the same operating temp.

gwj

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Trevor D:
<strong> </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by gwj:
<strong>My hot idle oil pressure has been steadily dropping this year-not sure how worried I am about that yet.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Have you had a recent oil analysis done? I definitely would because you could have excessive bearing wear causing the lower pressure at idle. This happened when I had the stock 346 in my T/A, and when we pulled the engine for the 383 the bearings were worn BAD. My oil pressure at idle had decreased from 40-45 psi to ~35 psi at the same operating temp.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Thanks for the heads-up. No, I have not had an analysis done. I do have a 100K warranty, though, which gives me a little degree of comfort level.

OBSSSD@work

Thanks again Pman, I'll stick with the 10W30. Agreed about the tech guys not knowing what happens in real world conditions.

Trevor, the pressure is fine (60-70psi) when the car is at normal operating temps. When I'm sitting in stop and go and flooging the car repeatedly hard in the heat it goes down to 45-55 psi. I would assume I'm seeing oil temps near 250 so I was concerned about that since I saw your RP analysis that didn't turn out too well.

Give me a call Trevor and we can get together tomorrow and cut your springs, k?