chris93266

iTrader: (5)

My car has a 100% stock bottom end, and i know it is going to blow sometime. I'd rather build another before this one shoots a rod out the block or something. I'm just going to use a stock block and add forged pistons and h beam rods. Are there any crappy brands/types of pistons and rods I should shy away from? Which pistons would be best for a car making 530 to the fly on motor + 200 shot? Thanks

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

look into getting a 6.0 LQ4/9 cast block as a start. with a stock crank and forged pistons and aftermarket rods you will be fine...

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Either a iron or aluminum block will work fine. Have the stock crank polished up, buy all new bearings, almost all of the forged rods and pistons are very reliable. Be sure to buy aftermarket rod bolts such as ARP or the Katechs and i recommend you buy the ARP main stud kit as well. I personally like diamond pistons, but they are all OK. Be sure to have the block cleaned up in a tank and get the cylinders honed at least if not a bore to 3.905.

chris93266

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the advice. i have built old sbc engines in the past, but this will be my first ls1. i'm going to have a machine shop assemble it. my portion of the bottom end build is selecting the parts. how necessary are main studs?

cop car- what are the benefits to going to an iron block? seems to me that if i'm going to go iron block, i should stroke it due to the extra weight.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Iron has more strength than aluminum, but is a bit heavier, its a trade off.

Main studs arent needed but are really nice to have and arent too expensive, just a good piece of mind and a stronger part than the stock bolts.

chris93266

iTrader: (5)

will i run into problems @ 750hp with my aluminum block?

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

Most likely not. Remember that these engines have 6 bolt main caps and the oil pan is a solid design that adds strength to the block itself. These blocks are very stout and can take a lot of abuse. A good strong rotating assembly will ensure that the block stays in good order.

chris93266

iTrader: (5)

thanks i thought these blocks were good for atleast 750

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

benifits are that you can keep driving your car around like it is now, the iron block is like $500 brand new from GM, so its cheap. its less than a 100lb increase in weight (less than 1% of total car weight). IMO 364 cubes are fine... dont really know if its worth the extra $800 to step it up to 408 but thats your call.

dyls1

iTrader: (11)

So his car is around 5 tons?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Not only that, but the extra cubes and larger bore of the 6.0L will make it much easier to hit that 530hp mark he was talking about hitting with a 347.

Mahle has excellent pistons that are friction coated on the skirts and Eagle makes some quality rods as well. You can even find SCAT rods on ebay stores for around $300, but I can't vouch for their quality I really don't know. All aftermarket rods that I am aware of come with upgraded rod bolts as well.

chris93266

iTrader: (5)

I have heard good things about mahle. i've heard about the scat rods on ebay, but i am a little worried about off brand stuff in my motor even though i am the biggest tight wod. are there any specific rods to stay away from?

btw :i'm already at the 530hp mark with my 346. i am guessing that i had 20% drivetrain loss with my heavy 17" ws6 wheels and 4l65e/3600 stall. 442rwhp + 20% loss= 530fwhp. if loss was at 15% then i have 508, but i plan to do a cam & 90/90 swap with the bottom end.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

yeah really since when is 100lbs only 1% of a fbodys weight??

Cop Car

iTrader: (14)

sorry, its 3%