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Using loctite in cam swap?

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Old 03-20-2007, 12:27 PM
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Default Using loctite in cam swap?

I am in the process of wrapping up a cam swap in my s-10. Alldata at the shop is real good about telling where thread lockers are and are not required and in the process of torque specs it mentioned nothing about using loctite for the retainer, cam gear oilpump, or timing cover. While it's still open is it necessary to go back and loctite everything as long as it is torqued correctly which it is.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:28 PM
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I used locktite on every single bolt in the engine just about. You should make sure all bolts are locked.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:34 PM
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all of the bolts are long enough to retain themselves, assuming they're properly torqued. i have known alot of people who have used zero locktite and none have had problems.

however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:36 PM
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I would loctite anything that is subject to severe vibration. Blue (serviceable) if you think you'll have it apart in the near future. Or red (nonserviceable) if you don't anticipate pulling it apart for a while.

Good luck.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
all of the bolts are long enough to retain themselves, assuming they're properly torqued. i have known alot of people who have used zero locktite and none have had problems.

however, for extra insurance, the cam gear, cam retention bolts, and the oil pump bolts can be locktited.. it would be stupidly overkill to put locktite on the cover bolts..lol.. the new crank bolt has locktite from GM.
MrDude makes a good point there. I wouldn't put loctite on things that I knew didn't need it.

I think common sense will lead you in the right direction.

Retainer plate - yes, use loctite
Valvecover bolts - not necessary
Old 03-20-2007, 12:43 PM
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Thanks, I'll go back and loctite it. All it is is a few minutes of time, it would sure suck to have to go back and do it twice.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 01WS6/tamu
Thanks, I'll go back and loctite it. All it is is a few minutes of time, it would sure suck to have to go back and do it twice.
just be sure to use locktite blue.. i thought that was obvious, but i better mention it incase someone just doesnt know..

blue locktite = you can undo it

red locktite = most people snap these smaller bolts off because they didnt know they needed a torch.... lol

oh and FYI, yea, my cam gear and oil pump to block and oil pickup are locktited....
Old 03-20-2007, 12:52 PM
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I used red on all the bolts and I was able to get them back off without much of a problem.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
I used red on all the bolts and I was able to get them back off without much of a problem.
was the locktite bottle red or was the locktite actually red?


in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
Old 03-20-2007, 12:59 PM
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ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS locktite the cam sprocket bolts!!
I used red just to be sure.

If you're car ever throws a p0343 (CMP High Voltage) code and your tach gauge stop working, but the will work every now and then, it's almost 100% certain that you're cam sprocket bolts have loosed up. TRUST ME. haha.

Locktite dem beeches!
Old 03-20-2007, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
was the locktite bottle red or was the locktite actually red?


in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
Haha..

Mine, both blue and red, both came in small blue tubes...

Wonder what's with all the changes?
Old 03-20-2007, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by MrDude_1
was the locktite bottle red or was the locktite actually red?


in an effort to confuse newbies everywhere, locktite put blue locktite in red bottles...
then in an effort to confuse people who think they knew of their trick, locktite then changed the color of the smaller tubes to put the blue locktite into a blue bottle/tube....
honestly, i think it was just a personal plot against me.
LOL, the fluid is red.
Old 03-20-2007, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by brad8266
LOL, the fluid is red.
Used red on all my cam swap stuff multiple times, to include the rocker bolts. Didn't have much of a problem.
Old 03-20-2007, 05:53 PM
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I used Red on my Flywheel to Pressure Plate bolts just to be sure!
The mechanic who put my last clutch in didn't tighten them enough and they backed out. What a PITA.
Old 03-20-2007, 07:12 PM
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there are different grades of locktight of the same color i think.
Old 03-20-2007, 09:22 PM
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And make sure there is no oil on the bolt threads or the hole threads before applying the loctite. I always hit the threads with brake parts cleaner before application.
Old 03-21-2007, 02:15 PM
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Another often overlooked benefit of using Locktite, is that it helps to prevent thread gallling. This is especially improtant if you plan on chemically cleaning (Brake cleaner)the threads prior to assembly. Personally, I would use the serviceable (blue) Loctite.

BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?


Andy1
Old 03-21-2007, 03:33 PM
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I used red aswell
Old 03-21-2007, 05:12 PM
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Kinda off topic, but worth mentioning so nobody makes the same mistake... I was using the red loctite on the three bolts from my flexplate to my torque converter on my 78 z28. Stupidly applied the loctite to all three bolts before I got under the car. And then I got a phone call. A few minutes later I could not get the nut to start on the bolt. Was a pain to clean the bolts and start over. APPLY THE LOCTITE WHEN YOU ARE READY TO SECURE THE BOLT!! I hope this will help someone, wish I had read something like this back when I was 19
Old 03-22-2007, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Andy1
Another often overlooked benefit of using Locktite, is that it helps to prevent thread gallling. This is especially improtant if you plan on chemically cleaning (Brake cleaner)the threads prior to assembly. Personally, I would use the serviceable (blue) Loctite.

BTW, what does GM use on the bolts that are threaded into the block? Sure seems like there's some kind of compound on them when removed; Anti-sieze? Threadlocker?


Andy1
the bolts with threadlocker on them arrive at a GM assembly plant with a crumbly locktite pre-installed on the bolts. its like a powder or a dry paste.

the bolts themselves are coated, but at the moment i cant remember the name of the process...



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