smoke20

iTrader: (2)

I have a forged 347 aluminum block, with patriot heads on a STS car. the car will be together in about 3 weeks and i want some info on the best break in procedure. any advice will be appreciated.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I would do a search and go with the best method you feel comfortable with.

THE_SUPRA

i have been told (from a bunch of my racer friends) the best way to break in a motor is to just pound the **** out of it to seat the rings, and you should do it at your desired boost level. dont drop the boost for break in. the guys that swear by this say that with their experience; identicle motors, one being broken in gently, one being broken in with a beating, the hard brake in will trap 2-3 mile an hour better.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

yes, maby a race motor that is only going to see the track, and no easy driving. for a street/strip motor, you want to take it easy for 500 miles. crusing at various rpm's NO WOT RUNS UNTILL AFTER 500 MILES!. then after 500 miles, you can start doing WOT runs, but ease into them. you dont want your first WOT run to be from 0-150. try like 0-50, then 20-70, 40-100 **** like that. then after you got about 600 miles on it, then you can start flogging it.

EdmontonSS

I've done some reading on this, I'm a believer that to get a strong engine, you have to bag the **** out of it from the get-go. Please read:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

LS1-IROC

iTrader: (4)

I have been breaking my crate motor in fairly aggressively for the past 2 weeks...I have about 300 miles on it and it runs like a top....hope this is the best way to do it. I haven't done many WOT runs but I certainly haven't nursed it either.

THE_SUPRA

thanks for correcting me bww3588. i remember asking my buddy if there is any special way he breaks the race motors in and he said "i just have my wife do a 5min burn out" lol.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

well its like others have said, its a very debatable subject. its like banging a chick for her first time, if you jump in all ***** nilly, your liable to hurt her.

billyb

iTrader: (15)

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

WS6Vixen

iTrader: (2)

I've been trying to break in my 402 stroker for several months now. I have the STS on my car as well and that's what's holding up me actually breaking in the engine. Blew a dang seal in the turbo! Good luck with your break-in!

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

I Agree.. This subject is one of those topics that AVERYONE has a different opinion. They very from "Beat the **** out of it." to "Baby it for the first 500 miles", and everything in between.
Your engine builder will know best as to how he wants his motor broken in. Dont listen to the friend who has a friend, that has a friend who builds motors..

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

Now that guys a fuking moron. IMHO

Asmodeus

Those are the methods I have used in the past, as well as others I know. I would go with that guy, he knows what he's talking about.

NDFORSPD

the only one thing I have heard NOT to do is idle for excessive amounts of time, other than that I think it depends more on each motor(ring specs, clearances etc)

JunkyardZ

iTrader: (7)

I've always heard to dog the sh*t out of it. I've read the link above about the break in secrets and the guy seems to know what he's talking about. Even shows some proof, granted its on bike motors, but same concept.

I would go with what you think is right, but the proof is there that hard break-ins seem to net more power/reliability.

Quickin

Doesn't GM do WOT dyno runs with every engine they build before they go into a car?

Most new engines require dyno tuning, especially strokers, so there's no way around WOT runs before 500 miles.

Regardless of how you drive it for 500 miles, the rings are set in the first 2 miles, so you're wasting fun time.


.

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

I think the safest thing to do is contact the company that built the motor and ask them what their break in procedure is, this was if there are any problems down the road you won't be at fault for improper break in.
AJ

EdmontonSS

LOL, this should be a poll... I hope some sponsors or some credible engine builders chime in!

pkincy

iTrader: (1)

Strongest stock car I ever had was my 98 Camaro. I picked it up on Saturday night on a September in 97 and drove 3 ten mile trips allowing the rear diff to cool between each trip. Went to bed and woke up early on Sunday and drove 110 miles to Sacramento. Ran 4 autox runs on a very fast course winning FStock for the day. Drove 10 miles to Sacto Raceway and did 4 qtr mile passes (best of a 107 at 13.0). Drove 90 of the 110 miles home and did 3 dynojet runs (best of 314.6 rwhp on a 98 1LE with less than 250 miles on it) and drove home. All this on the day after delivery.

For years that remained the strongest stock LS1 that I know of. Put 60,000 trouble free miles on that motor before I cracked a ring land (now with H/C) and put in the 402.


Perry

mistermike

It depends on what kind of finish hone was done to the cylinders. Modern finishes are very smooth and the rings will seat in a matter of minutes. Load the engine on accel and decel and avoid long periods of idling and you'll be fine. Some folks don't like to subject a new set of valve springs to prolonged high RPM until they've been through some heat cycles.