OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Finnally my car will be running again after waiting for 2 months now. I have a 2002 TA, M6. I am having them flycut and put on the 5.3L stage 2.5 heads and the MS4 cam. What do you think it will put out to the wheels. All the info of the car is in the sig. I have a LS6 intake right now but thinking about buying the Fast 90/90 set up. what do you think I should do keep the LS6 intake and just buy a new rearend or buy the 90/90 and worry about the rearend when it gives out. I just cant wait to see what it runs like when i get it back. I will post up videos of when they are dyno tuning it if anybody is interested.

C5 Forever

What did TSP say it will do?

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

They told me with the right bolt ons expect anywhere from 460-480 rwhp, that is what i am hoping for but you never know. That might just be wishful thinking, i hope not.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

You'll need the 90/90.

C5 Forever

I second that, let that bad boy breathe.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

So go with the 90/90 alright then. Anybody else.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

DEF the 90/90, more breathing = more power, the rear end will be fine for now

PREDATOR-Z

I would get the rear for sure. The 90/90 will get more HP but the car won't move with a busted rear. Since it was down 2 months you know what I mean.

Good decision on the flycut, that ride is gonna be mean as hell.

venom ws7

iTrader: (13)

if you get the FAST setup i think you can get 480-490rwhp
but if get the rear you will get 440-460rwhp and low 11.

Irocss85

iTrader: (1)

dude, thats kind of a no brainer. just like predator said. unless you have the funds for both, no way would I want 15 more rwhp (if your lucky) INSTEAD of having a reliable car. no way will that rear live long if you actually use that power even w/o the fast intake. and to me, its just not worth the return to spend $1200(?) for intake/tbody for 5-20RWHP.
but thats just me I guess.
my vote is for the 9" easily.

:edit: I dont mean to be cocky, but I just cant understand why people make this decision. and, take it from me, Ive broken 2 3:73 ring gears with my LT1 car running high 11's. prolly down 50-75HP from where your goin to be.

chris

playtoy

iTrader: (5)

I would go with the 90/90. My reasoning for this is you are going to have to have the car tuned when they put in the cam. If you wait and do the intake later you will have to have the car retuned. As long as you have a little bit of self control, and don't put any tires that will hook on your car you probably wont break the rear. I have broke rear ends with less power but then again I drive like and idiot.

PREDATOR-Z

What is the point of having more power if you can't put it to the ground? Also wheel hoping breaks more rears than actualy hooking.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Pred is right about needing a rear with that combo but I dont see anywhere where this guy is a racer. He was asking about the combo and with that cam he'll need a 90/90. He'll also need a new rear if he plans on doing any racing but if he doesnt intentionaly set out to break the rear I think he could be ok for a bit. My re-built 10-bolt held together well but I also limited the wheel hop and abuse I put it through. I sold it and bought a 9 inch.

OneMean01

iTrader: (6)

Ok thanks guys for the info I think I will wait another month or so and just buy both the 90/90 and the rear. I rarely drive this car just hate getting that sunset orange dirty. The car gets driven maybe a total of 30 times a year due to me always being at work but when it is driven trust me it gets riped on just about every straight away, and it will hook due to drag radials now I got tired of spinning them from 20 rolls so it was time for some traction. But thanks again guys its nice to know other people thoughts.

onebadZ28

If i were you i would get the 90/90, and get the car tuned. In the process of all that be saving for the new rear. Then replace it as soon as you get it or wait until the 10 bolt goes boom. Even if you don't have the new rear as soon as you get the car tuned i'm sure you can retain yourself from thrashing on it for a couple of sessions just knowing that in a couple off days or weeks all will be good

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I sold my 10 bolt with 373 gears and a complete rebuild with 10k miles on it for $400.
There is some value in not breaking that 10 bolt.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

umm wait a minute.....FAST 9090 = $800-$1100 (depending on where you buy and new or used)
9" =$2500.......apples to oranges here...
Pred is right on with his logic no doubt, but the prices are way off! Go 9090 and take it easy on the rear...id throw some beefier gears on there...say 4 10's if its an M6 dont lauch it at 5k with stickies and youll be fine!

i have those heads and the ms3 and i made 461 RWHP (i think it is low considering i have the 9090 and an EWP...but my tune isn't dead on yet soo...)
you'll love it...if you make more trq and HP than I do, im flycutting and going with the ms4....

let us know!

Studytime

iTrader: (15)

What do you perfer high dyno numbers or a good numbers at the track? If it's dyno numbers- get the intake. If you want your car to run strong at the track, then get a rear that will allow you to launch it. There's no reason to think it can't go low, low 11's with a good launch AND the LS6 intake.

I wanted a good driveshaft in my car, a suspension, and a tough rear end more than I wanted a powerful LS1 between the front fenders. All the power in the world won't make you fast if you can't use it.

Ben T.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I think you will fell your power more w/ the rear. Pluss, the intake will not grenade on you and leave you stranded (unless a BAD n2o accident)..... the rear can..

It will feel like a whole new car w/ the rear. Strange 12b = $2200, direct bolt in replacement.

erikthegoalie

iTrader: (29)

lol lets make it harder for the guy lololol