1fastz

iTrader: (16)

Im reading differnet theories on how to break-in a ls1 motor. Im just wanting your inputs. Do I use regular oil for the first 500 miles?? Im kinda weiry of this theory since the reason this motor is a rebuild is becuase it had a spun bearing, i dont wany anything like that to happen again!!!!

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

im gonna use GC 0-30 right off the bat and be nice for the first 500ish miles

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

I would pick one weight and brand of oil and stick with it for the motors life. 500 miles is a good round break-in interval. Most people take it real easy on their motor during this first interval but I personally would run the RPM's up at least by the second or third motor start-up.

PREDATOR-Z

Pick a non synthetic oil like a 0W30 or 5W30 for 1st startups.
Start motor and let it warm, fill radiator, check for leaks, oil pressure etc...
When motor reached operating temperature (fully hot), take it to red line a few times for a few second intervals to seat the rings. 3 times for 5>7 sec close to redline is good. (5000rpm +)
If you have new springs, do 3 startup & cooldowns before the hard runs.

Run 500 quick miles and change oil. Run another 1000 and go to a good synth brand.

Do not be affraid, this in no way harms the motor. On the contrary, your rings will seat well and you'll enjoy awsome compression.

gunit

iTrader: (2)

I agree with Preadator-Z

When I had my turbo b series honda motor built, we ragged on it as soon as it had been warmed up.

Ran perfectly until I sold it and the kid decided to learn how to tune on it. Cracked a sleeve.

I just assume run it like you plan on running it from then on out. Don't baby it if it's not going to be babied all the time IMO.

cantdrv65

iTrader: (3)

Heres what I have always done with great results. Pick whatever oil you choose to run in the engine and fill it. Crank it up and let it warm at idle. Rev a few times, then when fully warmed run the dog **** out of it and never look back....

Its a good idea to change the oil early anyway on a fresh built motor so going with non-synthetic for that first 500 miles will save you some money. Does it help seat the rings? Not in my opinion, but why waste expensive oil....

Lurius

iTrader: (7)

This article has proven invaluable to be in my research for my new motor. It covers parts info and break in, and WHY you break this motor in one way over another. Its specificly a build of an ls1, so its tailored to our needs!

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com..._engine_build/

Enjoy, its a great article.

-Lurius

PREDATOR-Z

Rings will "seat" in the first 20 min of motor running. My last 370 (4.030) bore was done the way I describe, no oil consumption even after many drag passes.
If motor was blueprinted properly, there is no need to "baby" the setup.

Reject

iTrader: (24)

my other few engines i rebuilt (first gen small blocks) i'd run it like the way i was going to drive them from the get go. never had a problem with them eating oil or not having correct compression.

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

they use to say if the rings isn't seated in 20 minutes they probably aint going to seat.ofcourse different rings like moly may take alittle longer to.i believe the reason alot of people use conventional oil for break-in is because of what it consists of to help the rings and bearings conform to each other.zinc is very helpful but these days even conventional oils is lacking it,only heavy duty truck type oil still has alot of it and i think they are going to start cutting back on it in that type oil also.

PortPros1

I have been an engine builder for 20 years, I've worked for Cosworth, Ed Pink, Scott Shaferoff, I've been a tuner and engine builder for Busch and Nextel Cup, Champ Cars, IRL, SCCA, Silver Crown and more. I own Port Pros LLC and have for the last 5 years.

I have broken in over 1000 motors, not one or two. When your ready to start your new motor, check you fluid levels. Unplug the fuel injectors; leave the radiator cap off, spin the motor over until you get oil pressure. You can use 5-30 or 10-30 just don't use synthetic for the first 500 miles.

Once you have oil pressure plug in your injectors and cycle the key a few times to fill up the fuel system. Start the motor, it should fire right up. Have someone there checking for fuel, water and oil leaks as the motor warms up.
Do not turn the motor off and let it cool down unless you have a leak that cannot be fixed with the motor running.
The motor is built with assembly lube to protect the bearings etc from the first start. Once you start it the assemble lube is mixing with the oil and not on the bearings anymore. Yes, once you turn it off the first time the assembly lube is gone but the motor is broken in there’s a difference.

Let the motor come up to operating temperature, top off the radiator and install the cap. Do not allow the motor to idle with no load for more than 15 minutes. Once you’re sure you have no leaks and the motor is warmed up drive the car. You need a load on the motor to break the rings in. Do not take the motor to 5000 rpm, the reason this is not a good thing is your cylinder pressure will go up with the rpm and your rings are not sealed yet. This can cause the rings to glaze the cylinder bores, if this happen you will never get them to seal. Keep it under 3500 rpm for your first drive.

Just drive the car for about 45 minutes, take it up to about 60 or 70 mph and down shift it easy, let the motor slow the car down. Do this about 10 times in your first 45-minute drive. This will break the rings in allow the lifters, pushrods and rocker arms to get an initial wear pattern and basically get all the moving parts to begin wearing in.
Once you do this you should see no smoke, here no noises and have a happy motor.
I cannot say this enough do not start the motor up let get to temperate and then turn it off and let it cool off, this is a very bad idea. I have heard it many times guys say it's the way they have always broken in their motors.... all two of them. And they got lucky period.

For what it's worth guys, not trying to start an argument here but I know what I'm talking about. I have seen more than one motor come in do to bad advise on break in.
If you would like to go over this on the phone just give me a call, no charge for advice.

Harold
512-257-0222
Port Pros LLC

ROCNDAV

iTrader: (100)

good stuff!

RGKSR

iTrader: (9)

I picked up a case of Shell Rotella T to use as a break-in oil. After a few changes, I'll go back to Mobil1.

Harold,

Thanks for the info!!!! I'll be sure to drive it once I start it.

Bob K.