horist

Looks like it's leaking out out the front crank seal... I can see it accumulate at the bottom of the timing cover and then drip off.

I had the ASP Pulley machined and it bottomed out it appears, on snug belts lined up...

so questions:
1. If the pulley isn't on enough can this cause it to leak?
2. I put a new front crank gasket on, could it be bad?

Car felt great, just gotta get this pesky oil leak taken care of so I can drive it around.

jmX

Did you install the pulley before you tightened down the front cover?

horist

No I didn't pulley wasn't back from machine shop yet... so if the cover isn't aligned right it can leak out the crank snout?

I'll be tearing it apart again tomorrow (just pulling radiator, water pump and checking cover)

Think I can reuse the (leave in) the front crank seal or should I replace it again ?

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

The best way to always avoid that leak properly is to replace that seal everytime you remove the front timing cover. The seal gets comfortable with where the cover is and then the next time, its not exactly in the same place if you dont use the ultra fancy, otherwise unnecessary tool from GM. Just carefully insert a new seal and then it will be happy with the next placement of the cover.

chris

jmX

The pulley needs to be installed BEFORE you tighten the front timing cover on, otherwise the seal may not be exactly centered around the pulley hub and this will cause leaks. GM recommends an expensive tool as Visceral said, but if you just install the pulley first you wont need any fancy tool.

The instructions on my website say to do things in this order specifically to prevent oil leaks like this. I've been in the exact same shoes that you are right now.

Plan B

Also, you need to keep that seal dry. Standard practice with seals is to give them a lick of oil prior to installation. This seal is graphite impregnated and if you do install them wet, you will increase your chance of them not bedding in correctly.

You guy's would know this already though. I just thought I'd add it to the thread for those who didn't.

Pete

horist

Thanks for the info guys, I'll be placing an order for a new crank bolt and front seal today, prolly tear her down and put it all back together this saturday. At least this is a pretty simple fix

horist

Hey another question for you guys...

Think i'll be able to just pull the water pump, loosen the front cover, realign w/the pulley already on and then tighten it down? or does the pulley have to come off and back on?

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

you *could* do that... no problem. But once the seal has started leaking, the only sure-fire way to nip it in the bud is to replace that seal before you put the pulley on.

chris

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Can this problem occur on an LT1 as well?

felton316

If you do not want to buy a new GM crank bolt everytime, ARP has came out with a LS1 crank bolt that is reuseable.

Smoke_Ford

GM uses a front cover alignment tool in the shop. It is an essential J-Tool so every shop has one. A great benefit of working for GM.

kp

iTrader: (34)

While it most likely is the seal they will also leak if you tighten the bolts from the front before you tighten the two bolts from the bottom. Same if tighten the two bolts from the bottom first without snugging the others. Put the cover on but leave the bolts fairly loose, once the damper is on lightly snug up the bolts going in from the front, then do the two from the bottom (you should se your sealer squish out when you do that. Then tighten the front bolts and then give the bottoms one more tighten. You should use silicone at least on the bottom corners and you will see it push out when its tightened properly. Just last week I had an LS1 car here that had a gap between the pan gasket and timing cover - it was leaking pretty good

BTW, find an old damper and just hone it until it slips on and off the crank - makes life a lot easier if you plan on doing a few cam swaps..