TR224 112 dyno numbers
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TR224 112 dyno numbers
Got the car tuned recently and was a little disappointed by it's numbers. Mods in the sig.
Baseline 355 rwhp, and 353 rwtq.
After tune 367 rwhp and 363 rwtq.
Open Headers 378 rwhp and 361 rwtq.
Guess it's about time for a new exhaust and maybe another cam swap.
Baseline 355 rwhp, and 353 rwtq.
After tune 367 rwhp and 363 rwtq.
Open Headers 378 rwhp and 361 rwtq.
Guess it's about time for a new exhaust and maybe another cam swap.
#3
Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
Thats the 1st iv heard of numbers that low but maybe u need some more intake and a throttle body cuz iv heard of no #l's lower than 398 w/o tuning out of that cam maybe its where u live i suggest u get a 2nd dyno tune at another shop and compare #'s some shops make mistakes on the dyno
#6
Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
What kind of dyno was it done on? If it were a Mustang dyno then you'd be right on, no?
Also, how does the car drive now, does it feel considerably stronger or no?
One other thought, (and I agree your #'s look low comparitevly speaking), if you ran an 11.9x at 116mph at the track, would you care?
Also, how does the car drive now, does it feel considerably stronger or no?
One other thought, (and I agree your #'s look low comparitevly speaking), if you ran an 11.9x at 116mph at the track, would you care?
#7
Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
Any cam that I put into my car will not make power. So far I have dyno'ed 345 rwhp with my stock cam, comp 218/524/114 and a TR224/561/112 (yes, my pcm is tuned and I am running 13.0:1 a/f all the way from 2500 to 6500). Maybe it will be a little higher with the addition of the ls6 intake, but then again 4.11's will kill that gain. I am done with trying to figure out why it won't make the power, I'm just gonna send it to a shop this summer for more tuning and let them figure it out.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
The tuning was done on a Dynojet1. I really doubt it was the tuners because this particular shop has had nothing but good reviews on this board.
The car does not feel considerably stronger than it did before. I have yet to run it at the track which is where it would really matter. If it did run an 11.9 @ 116 I wouldnt care what kind of power it made.
I havent modified the Macs in any way and I'd like to know how you could. Although I am thinking of eventually doing LT's.
By the way thanks for the replies guys.
The car does not feel considerably stronger than it did before. I have yet to run it at the track which is where it would really matter. If it did run an 11.9 @ 116 I wouldnt care what kind of power it made.
I havent modified the Macs in any way and I'd like to know how you could. Although I am thinking of eventually doing LT's.
By the way thanks for the replies guys.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
The primary tubes by the flange have welding bead that goes around the inlet of the primary tubes. Most people grind down the weld to help improve the flow.
For the ypipe, you replace the mac colletor with a flowmaster collector. The mac collecter is 2.75" in diameter whereas the flowmaster collecter is 3" in diamter. I cant give you a figure on how much more hp youll see but it couldnt hurt.
For the ypipe, you replace the mac colletor with a flowmaster collector. The mac collecter is 2.75" in diameter whereas the flowmaster collecter is 3" in diamter. I cant give you a figure on how much more hp youll see but it couldnt hurt.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
I wouldn't worry about a new cat-back. You only picked up 10hp when you ran open headers. That leads me to believe that you would pick up very little with a different cat-back. Unless you want something louder. You might however think about a set of long tubes (not SLP). Is there anyone close to you that you could borrow a TSP or Direct flow airlid from? You may be able to pick up a little with one of those lids. What plugs are you running and what gap? I am running the same cam as you with almost the same mods other than FLP's and Borla. I made a little more power than you but my car made pretty good power before the cam.
#13
Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
There's gotta be something really wrong here. I know someone with an A4 and a hotcam and after tuning he's at 370rwhp. IMHO with the TR224 you should be at AT LEAST 380.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
I wouldn't worry about a new cat-back. You only picked up 10hp when you ran open headers. That leads me to believe that you would pick up very little with a different cat-back. Unless you want something louder. You might however think about a set of long tubes (not SLP). Is there anyone close to you that you could borrow a TSP or Direct flow airlid from? You may be able to pick up a little with one of those lids. What plugs are you running and what gap? I am running the same cam as you with almost the same mods other than FLP's and Borla. I made a little more power than you but my car made pretty good power before the cam.
I have an SLP blackwing lid and you are the second person who has told me to change it. I borrowed someones MTI lid once (before cam) and went to the track and nthose runs happened to be the cars bests so far.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
What brand dyno was it? Even if it was a dynojet (Mustang dynos show less power), they are not all always the same. You need to compare new results to old results from the same dyno before jumping to any conclusions. What was the correction factor on your pulls? Also, track times mean more to me than dyno pulls.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
Have you ever missed a shift? I am starting to wonder if you may have internal problems. If you have ever missed a shift or broke a valve spring you could have one or more bent valves. That could be some of the problem.
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Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
In that case I don't know what kind of dyno it was. But the shop does F-bodies, Corvettes, and Vipers. I agree with you that track times are more important so I'll have to wait and see. Before the cam and gears its best was 13.0 @ 112. I took it to the track once before the the tune but it was on stock springs so I didnt bring it up past the normal stock shiftpoint, but the best I got out of it was 13.5. I have missed a shift before so maybe the valves are somewhere to start. Pushrods are fine because they were done with the springs after the track time.
#18
Re: TR224 112 dyno numbers
I still believe u should dyno it at a different shop just 4 comparison and belive it or not the lid brand does make a difference i once had a 2000 Z28 a4 and ran a 13.6 at 103 w/the LS1 motorsports lid then put my GMS lid on and ran a 13.58 at 104 it might be a little different but this was a stock car so 2 me in ur car it might make more of a difference. Also why dont any of u guys hv a fast toys or SLP cold air intake + hv u guys ever heard of descreening ur MAFS it worked on both of my cars.