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ARP head BOLTS torque like the studs?

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Old 05-31-2007, 04:19 PM
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Default ARP head BOLTS torque like the studs?

I'm about to assemble this thing, I have a set of stock GM head bolts here. After doing some research I think it would be worthwile to upgrade the head bolts. I'm not too keen on spending $250 for head studs, the $140 for the bolts seems reasonable to me. I spoke with ARP and apparently they torque just like the studs do? Is there any reason I should spend another $100 and get the studs, if the bolts will get rid of the torque to yield process?
Old 05-31-2007, 04:36 PM
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the BOLTS do get rid of the torque to yeild bullshit. Thats one of the reasons i bought them lol
Old 05-31-2007, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 2 SSlow
the BOLTS do get rid of the torque to yeild bullshit. Thats one of the reasons i bought them lol

Lol, I capitalized BOLTS so people would know I didn't mean STUDS
Old 05-31-2007, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Lol, I capitalized BOLTS so people would know I didn't mean STUDS
i figured as much, i capitalized it so you knew that i was talking about the bolts and not the studs as well lol
Old 06-01-2007, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
I'm about to assemble this thing, I have a set of stock GM head bolts here. After doing some research I think it would be worthwile to upgrade the head bolts. I'm not too keen on spending $250 for head studs, the $140 for the bolts seems reasonable to me. I spoke with ARP and apparently they torque just like the studs do? Is there any reason I should spend another $100 and get the studs, if the bolts will get rid of the torque to yield process?
One thing to keep in mind when using studs, I have read some people have problems getting the heads on if the swap is being done with the engine in the car. I just bought the ARP bolts.
Old 06-01-2007, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by bsf
One thing to keep in mind when using studs, I have read some people have problems getting the heads on if the swap is being done with the engine in the car. I just bought the ARP bolts.
Possibly, but no big deal. I couldn't remove my headers without cutting them off the exhaust, so when I attempted to put my heads on with the studs in the block, the heads wouldn't clear both the studs and the headers at the same time. So, you just screw out the studs, slap the heads on, and screw them back in. Shouldn't be a problem if your headers aren't frozen onto the rest of your exhaust and you can get them out of the way.

Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
Is there any reason I should spend another $100 and get the studs, if the bolts will get rid of the torque to yield process?
Studs provide more accurate and consistent torque loading, giving you a stronger and more even clamping force than with bolts. It's more critical with a FI or nitrous application, but good insurance even NA.

I spent the extra for the studs, and don't regret it at all.
Old 06-13-2007, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
I'm about to assemble this thing, I have a set of stock GM head bolts here. After doing some research I think it would be worthwile to upgrade the head bolts. I'm not too keen on spending $250 for head studs, the $140 for the bolts seems reasonable to me. I spoke with ARP and apparently they torque just like the studs do? Is there any reason I should spend another $100 and get the studs, if the bolts will get rid of the torque to yield process?
So did you get studs or bolts I trying to figure out what to get myself and where is the best place/price on these bad boyz????
Old 06-13-2007, 06:17 PM
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I just did a head swap this last week, with the motor in the car and I used ARP studs with no issues at all! Driver side peice of cake, Pass side I had my wife use a bar to hold the wire harness out of the way and everything slipped right inot place. If I ever take these heads off I dont have to clean the hole again and that sucked!
Old 06-14-2007, 10:17 AM
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I use the studs, but one thing to keep in mind is if you do buy the studs, bolts or whatever, DEFINATELY buy a bottle of the arp lube to go with it. the packet is enough to get them installed, but if you ever ever have to take it apart again you'll need it.
Old 06-14-2007, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mikespeed95
I use the studs, but one thing to keep in mind is if you do buy the studs, bolts or whatever, DEFINATELY buy a bottle of the arp lube to go with it. the packet is enough to get them installed, but if you ever ever have to take it apart again you'll need it.
Ive used the studs a couple times as well.

You can use 30 weight oil, but the ARP moly lube is definetly preferred.




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