stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

i know this has been asked alot but what would you guys recommend for a great DD cam. I was thinking of going with a MS4 but i dont really want a peak HP car, i want a smooth, high HP/TQ curve that starts around 1800-2200 and drops off around 6500-6800. I was thinking of a TR224 or 228, the Torqer V2 or V3, MS3, I also heard Fultral and G5 were good companies??? I've got the mods in my sig. I also dont think i want dual valve springs??? Not sure if there hard to install or not??? Can you post up your cam only Dyno numbers with the exact cam models if you have them? I know it's hard to pick something for someone's car that you know hardly anything about, but any help would be appreciated!

PREDATOR-Z

Well looking at your sig with the 2600 stall and 3.23 gears, I think you can eliminate all the big cams unless you want to change your setup.

IMO go for a nice custom grind that will keep all your trq and add some ponies.
I suggest a 224/224 .609/.609 110+2 LSA

This is a XFI lobed cam that should be able to get you a good 400/400 + range numbers, while being very streetable and a nice chopchop lope.

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

yeah i would definitely want a 400/400+ range. How much would a custom cam such as the one mentioned cost? the 110 LSA would be what is giving cam the lopey sound is that correct? What would be the power difference in the 110 and say a 112 or 114? I'm kinda new to the cam thing.

PREDATOR-Z

The 110 is a byproduct of the valve events to achieve your goal and powerband range. The higher LSA, means you are shifting the powerband higher in the rpms, that will cost you trq in the lowerband, which looking at the good numbers you are already making is not something you want to do. Don't forget you have a 2600 stall so you want that power to come on early.

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

yeah that makes sense. so im assuming that the power range on the cam is in the neighborhood of what im looking for, i probably wouldn't rev it past 6200 to be safe.

PREDATOR-Z

It will have best shifts from 6300>6500. That can only be determined by some track trial and error runs (the shift points that yiel the best ETs)

Of course HPP3 will have to go and dyno or street tuning will be mandatory. Think about investing in a good A/F guage (wideband)

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

yeah i need a good dyno tune anyways, im running way rich right now. I wouldn't mind shifting at around 6500 but would the stock bottom end hold up??? could i drive the car to get it tuned after i install the cam??? the closest place i would trust is like 3 or 4 hours away. there is a local guy who is putting in a dyno and going to run EFI Live. he's like 20 min away, but i don't know if he knows exactly how to tune LS1's. I do however know he does some impressive diesel trucks 1000WHP range??? Thank you for your input, i need all the help i can get!

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

Please whatever you do, make the investment in good valve springs. Not going to dual springs will really limit your cam choices. Predator gave you some sound advice. A narrow LSA cam in the mid 220s on the intake is a smart move. Because your running SLP headers with cats and chambered exhaust, I'd probably also recommend a 6 degree split to the exhaust. A 224/230 .609/.604 110LSA +4 cam with XFI lobes would ROCK with your mods! If you must run single springs, then I'd limit your choice to XE lobes: 224/230 .568/.573 110LSA +4.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

definitely listen to patrick g & predator!! these 2 are damn knowledgable as hell. i swear these guys just sit there and think of crazy cam specs all day!

stroked383z

iTrader: (1)

are the dual valve springs hard to install? how much $$$ is it gonna cost to buy everything i would need to change to dual springs?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

If youre not gonna rev high, limit your duration. My T2 232/234 peaks at 6600, although it is only a +2. I didnt even know that was possible on a stock intake.

Phil'sC5vette

iTrader: (4)

guits,
Im looking at your numbers with the TV2 cam and you have better peak HP than I do, but less TQ than I do. I have the 228R 114.
what would cause that?

I have the TV2 on a 112 that I want to install, but dont want to lose TQ

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Well the larger duration may slightly lessen your torque, but it really depends on how much spark and compression you run. I should have been running another 2 or 3 degrees spark for that run. Also, My torquer 2 only has 2 degrees advance ground in. That pushes the powerband higher. Most cams are +4. But im sure youre well aware of all that.

Its a good cam though, i think youll be happy with it. Dont just base it on my car's numbers. After all, its a budget car with home ported heads.

MPHmotorsports

iTrader: (18)

Forget about the cam Pred said without the use of a good dual spring setup.
Pac has a quality beehive spring, but I prefer to stay with Duals with a very aggressive ramp speed cam and high lifts.
I am a fan of the LSK/XER stuff myself, and will add a 3rd choice that could work well.
I must go with Pat here and say you need a bigger split on the exhaust side of the cam due to your exhaust on the car.
I might have to try a 224/230 .636/.592 110+2.
That should give you some killer sounds and a awesome power band.
You will still get some great peak power but with the small converter and 3.23 gears I wouldn't go much if any bigger on the duration and would definitely keep a tight LSA.
Now if you are stuck on the single spring maybe a 224/228 581/588 110+2 would be a winner. I would still keep a 4-6 degree or duration separation from the intake to exhaust.

Old SStroker

That's one way to explain it.