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"Budget" stroker parts..How reliable?

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Old 06-10-2007, 10:00 PM
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Default "Budget" stroker parts..How reliable?

I'm having a 383 built for me by a tech sponsor & I am assured that Scat rods with ARP 2000 rod bolts/Eagle crank is OK.
Well..I'm hoping it's better than stock stuff..But just how good is it?
How hard can you turn & 383 with these parts?
I really wanted Comp star stuff but this was the next engine in line available.
This has to be the last motor I put im this car.
Has anyone here had an unexpected..Or should I say ..An unreasonable engine failure directly related to running Eagle/Scat stuff?
Something not related to abuse/improper assembly..If you were making 1200 RWHP spinning 7500+ RPMs & broke a rod/ crank thats not what I'm refferring to.But please post anyway.Pics of the destruction would be cool.
Old 06-11-2007, 10:31 AM
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Not that I know of. Both the Eagle crank and the scat H beam rods have seen over 1K HP in a few engines. Not sure about teh SCAT I beam rods, but theyre probably not too far behind.
Old 06-11-2007, 11:47 AM
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If they're that good,then why buy Oliver,Lunati,Callies ,etc?
Old 06-11-2007, 11:54 AM
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IMHO, you're mostly paying for the name. Like I said, just my opinion. I'm using an Eagle crank and rods for my iron block 422 stroker in my 02 Z06.
Old 06-11-2007, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BYE RICE
If they're that good,then why buy Oliver,Lunati,Callies ,etc?
Theres good enough, and then theres the best. Some poeple only buy the best of the best.
Old 06-11-2007, 11:58 AM
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I think some of it "MAY" be weight issues. I think some of the higher end rods and such are lighter, making higher rpms easier. JMHO
Old 06-11-2007, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Stang's Bane
I think some of it "MAY" be weight issues.
Agreed. Also fit and finish. closer to being balanced (crank). Country of origin plays a big role too!
Old 06-11-2007, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Agreed. Also fit and finish. closer to being balanced (crank). Country of origin plays a big role too!
Fit and finish. Good point. That is the biggest reason I went with a Callies "dragon slayer" crank. The Compstar rods were just too goddamn pretty to pass up
Old 06-11-2007, 12:54 PM
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So the consensus so far is that these "entry level" budget parts are more than adequate for a "street car"..The difference is that,on average,these parts require more labor to balance or otherwise "make right" before assembly.They are heavier than more expensive forgings & as a result have less RPM capability.
How much heavier?
What is their RPM capability?
Can I safely spin them to the limit of a Comp 921 valve spring(approx 7K) ?
Then there's little issue of contributing to the trade deficit with China.
My experience with CHICOM made speed parts thus far has been poor (PRP Intakes=junk).I hope something as critical as bottom end parts is a better engineered part.
Old 06-11-2007, 01:26 PM
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I don't think that you should be worried what so ever. We have built HUNDREDS of short-blocks without a single problem! We have built short-blocks to make over 1100 RWHP with turbos, 700 with a blower, 800 on the bottle with these "entry level budget parts!" I think you can spin it to whatever you would like without any concern. We can build you one with a Lunati billet crank and rods but at the end of the day it is going to do the same thing. Again, I don't think you are anything to worry about.
Old 06-11-2007, 04:08 PM
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I love budget builds! Hey Jon how about a offset grinded crank build?




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