needmoremoney

In the process of installing my H/C swap, Impacted the bolt off (come out perfect, also I have an A4) I installed my other new cam, Slid my new ASP pulley on the crank, used my old harmonic balancer bolt, with my air impact, pressed it on in a matter of 1 minute , unscrewed the old bolt out, ripped out my new bolt, put some red locktite on it, and them impacted the new bolt on. The pulley lined right up with the idler pulley, and its on nice and tight. My question is anyone else impact on the harmonic balancer. I know you need to torque it to a certain spec, but using an $450 snapon impact @ 140 PSI line pressure should torque it ok right?

BYBYC5

nope, gota torq. it down bro. you might be close but no need to wonder about it.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

LS1HOWTO.COM describes it this way..Step one: To seat new balancer, install using old bolt to 240 lb ft. Step two: Tighten NEW bolt to 37 lb ft. Step three: Final pass which turns new bolt 140 degrees.

horist

I used an impact for mine, no probs. The impact was capable of 350 ft/lbs, pressed the pulley right on, then I used it to put the new bolt on.

C_Williams

I concur...do the torque and stretch routine for sure.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

You might want to get a new bolt and do the torque and stretch routine. I just did a ASP pulley install on my truck yesterday and measured the old and new bolt. The old bolt was stretched ~.052". If you stretch the bolt too much it will not keep its clamping power. If you don't tighten it enough it may decide to back out after a couple WOT blast. Go here to see some pics with measurements of the old and new bolt.

<a href="http://community.webshots.com/album/45556659GDVRIx" target="_blank"><font color="red">ASP Pulley Install Pics<!--color--></font></a>

John

robertbartsch

One other issue. I read some have had oil seal crank leaks and that they are caused by installing the pully after the timing cover bolts have been tightened.

Apparently, to make sure the cover alings properly, the pulley should be torked down and then the cover boltd should be snuged...

....not really sure about this ...only read it somewhere here...

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

John, Great demo on ASP pulley install(bolt torque)!

robertb, I also would like to know if there is a bolt tightening sequence between timing cover and balancer. Anyone know???
By the way, did your case of ROYAL arrive yet? I'm still waiting for mine. gMAG

robertbartsch

....Yeh my case of Royal Purple synthetic arrived the other day....The note attached asked me not to say anyting bad about the claimed protective properties of the stuff on LS1Tech.com anymore....

Now, I need a new 4.125" crank, some forged pistons and connecting rods for my big-block project....

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

There is a Kent-Moore tool you are supposed to use to align the timing chain cover before the balancer is installed. I've used it before when a tech at a dealer let me borrow it out of their LS1 tool kit. Works real good but I bet it's expensive to buy. It's hard to get to the bolts on the timing chain cover with the pulley installed. I'm going to make a tool out of a stock pulley that will slide on the crank snout and into the seal to align it. I'm going to cut out the center section of the pulley and hone the ID until it slides on and off the crank easily. It should work better than just eyeballing it.

needmoremoney

Well, this will be the third time i've done it this way, and never had any leaks I guess im just lucky. My only concern was if it was going to leak because it looks like the ASP doesn't go up as far as the stock balancer did, but in time, i'll find out. thanks

Jabroni

I recently did the "pulley first, tighten cover bolts second" routine. No oil on the floor either!!