what pulley do i need?? my asp wont fit.
06-17-2007, 08:25 PM
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what pulley do i need?? my asp wont fit. i ran my asp fine on my 346. now i get a 408 and the crank has this little thin peice of metal...some kid of a locker or some thin. can someone give me a link or point me out to which pulley i need.
you can clearly see that the pulley will not nount with that lil peice of metal on the crank
you can clearly see that the pulley will not nount with that lil peice of metal on the crank
06-18-2007, 05:24 PM
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You could also remove the key. The keyed crank is nice, but if your setup doesnt require it, you could always take it out. Place a flat screwdriver or chisel under the curve and lightly tap it out. Do not gall the crank. You can take them out easily, always had to do it on SBC's before sending the cranks out. Tons of transmissions and older Jeep axles had keyways, never had a problem taking them out.
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06-18-2007, 07:45 PM
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A machine shop should have a keyway cutter and the correct size mandrel to use. If they do, they can cut a keyway in 10 minutes. All it takes is the cutter and a press. Here is a link so you can see what the tools look like. http://www.hhrobertsmachinery.com/Ma...y_cutters.html
Last edited by LS1MCSS; 06-18-2007 at 07:51 PM.
06-19-2007, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SSpdDmon
Is having a pulley machined for a key going to throw off the balance? I'd want to make sure of that before I spin my motor upwards of 6,000rpms... 
06-19-2007, 11:02 AM
#13
It's called a Woodruff shear key. They're used in all kinds of applications including your Briggs and Stratton lawnmower mag/flywheel. You don't need the key unless you're running FI. You can't tell from the photo, but unless the keyway is long enough that it goes past the timing cover seal you can just remove it without worrying about an oil leak. If the keyway does go beyond the seal surface and you don't want to go the expense of buying another pulley for $200.00. You can just get some keystock and cut it so that it is long enough to go from the snout to slightly past the seal surface to prevent a leak. Keystock is sold in SAE and metric and it is inexpensive. You may have to machine one face of the keystock down slightly so that the outer face(when installed) does not protrude above the crank surface. It has to be flush so that the pulley will slde on and not buck into the outer face of the key as you push the pulley on. A horizontal mill can make this simple cut. By the way a key goes in a keyhole and a key goes in a keyway, not the other way around. Try it sometime and you'll probably find that you can't get a keyhole to go into key or a keyway to go into a key. At least I haven't been able to get it to work, but I'm not a magician.
06-20-2007, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
You don't need the key unless you're running FI
Originally Posted by daryl2cb@yahoo.com
if you decide that it might end up being cheaper to get a new pulley versus keying the old pulley, get the ati over the powerbond.
06-20-2007, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
I'm more than a little curious as to how it is that you have a special crankshaft with a keyway machined into it, but you don't know what the "little piece of metal" is? That's oxymoronic.
Also, an Oxymoron would be a figure of speech or a contradiction of terms. The fact that he didn't build the motor actually explains the key and keyway being there and him not knowing what it is for.
06-20-2007, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mzoomora
He clearly said that he just bought the block as an assembled piece. Apparently the builder thought it might be something he needed.
Also, an Oxymoron would be a figure of speech or a contradiction of terms. The fact that he didn't build the motor actually explains the key and keyway being there and him not knowing what it is for.
Also, an Oxymoron would be a figure of speech or a contradiction of terms. The fact that he didn't build the motor actually explains the key and keyway being there and him not knowing what it is for.
