charger01

The car and mods are listed below. The problem I am having is this....if the car is up to normal temps and then turned off and let sit for around 5 to 10 minutes then started again, about 10 to 30 seconds after you put it in drive and start moving, it all off a sudden almost dies, idles down to about 300 to 400 rpms and pushing on the gas pedal does nothing. It stays like this for about 3 to 5 seconds then returns to normal. It won't do it again until the car is shut off and the whole senario starts again. And what's really weird is that it is intermittant.....it won't do it everytime, just sometimes. Has anyone ever heard of a problem like this? I'm assuming something is getting hot, but not quite sure where to look. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks alot for any help!

Bill Bowling

iTrader: (6)

I would check your MAF. Are you throwing any codes?

Bill

charger01

Thanks for the reply. No, no codes, even when the problem is happening. Have you heard of the MAF doing something like that intermittantly?

charger01

So does anyone else have an opinion or idea on what might be causing my problem? Or does everyone agree it's the MAF? Thanks!

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

check your tranny fluid level.

If the level is low, your verter might be sucking it up when you drive for a bit. Then when you slow down, there is no fluid left to unlock the verter. This causes it to slip a bit.

Maybe?

transamfreak01

iTrader: (8)

yeah im having the same exact problem but mine keeps doing it.

Smoker_98

iTrader: (1)

Bump for my old car! I do have my days when I miss her. Seriously though that almost sounds like some sort of trans problem. I would definatly check the fluid and scan it to be sure there are no codes stored.

charger01

Updates....

I tried a new MAF and that didn't fix it. And it's not the tranny fluid, it's fine. Plus, if you put the car in neutral when it's acting up it still does it and is more likely to actually die when in neutral. It will most likely do it when I accelerate slowly then let off the gas...but it has also done it during when I'm slowing accelerating. Last night I noticed that when it was stalling out it smelled very rich. It's crazy how low the car is actually idling also. You would swear it's not running....the power steering stops working and then after a few seconds it comes to life and everything is normal. It's not throwing any codes, which is very weird also. I've come to the conclusion that it has to be heat related cause in the summer it does it about everytime after the car is restarted after sitting for a few minutes. Now if you let the car sit long enough for the engine and engine bay to cool off alot...say a half hour or so....then it will be fine and not act up at all. What is so so weird is that after is stalls and sputters once it will never do it again until the car is shut off and restarted.

Can someone give me a checklist of things to go through, starting with the most likely to the least likely? Could it possibly be the pcm that's getting hot and acting up?

I really appreciate any help!

Smoker_98
Hey man, so the car never did this when you owned it? The only thing I've really changed is the pcm. Thanks.

todds87ss

Did you have the car tuned after the cam? Sounds like an idle issue, that, when cold, the IAC makes up for. Get a tuner that will check your IAC counts when cold, then hot.

charger01

Yes, it has been tuned. I have hptuners and am going to try and grab a few logs of when it is happening and post them on here. What would be the best parameters to log? Thanks!

charger01

I have attached the hptuner files for anyone to look at. The log file shows the problem I am talking about. It starts at engine run time of 31 secs and goes to 34 secs then it dies. If you have hptuners please look at the log and see if you have any ideas on what might be happening. I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

Frost

iTrader: (45)

You have some idle issues delaying closed loop operation... your problem area appears to be in open loop.

Your IAC counts are a bit high when warm. Before any tuning, try opening up the TB a bit and don't forget to reset the TPS afterward. You won't have to open it much... you want about 60 counts at a hot idle. This alone may well fix all of your issue and any weird RPM sagging you likely also have. Most of the cams I have tuned on a 110 are a pain in the *** to some extent, moreso with an M6 than a stalled A4.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Also look at the weird dip in your idle airflow table when hot and in park/neutral... make it about a half gram less than the in-gear value and see how close that gets you.

charger01

Frost and others,

Sorry for bringing this thread back from the dead but want to pick your brain about the issues I'm still having....

Still having the same original issue that I started this thread for, even left the car with a local tuner(Wichita Dyno) and he couldn't figure it out but he did recommend I replace the fuel pump....haven't done that yet.

What I'm trying to diagnose right now is a strange starting issue....if the car is started cold, it will start and idle great every time but if the car is started warm it may or may not die right after it starts...it'll fire up and then idle down and die...takes just a couple seconds. If I try and immediatly restart it, it will just crank unless I give it about 15 to 20% throttle, then it will fire are run like normal after I let it idle down. Now other times, under the exact same conditions, it will start and idle fine. Do you think this is the tune or something mechanical? One thing i have noticed is that when it's dying after a start, I get some knock retard right at start up. When it is starting normal, I do not see any knock retard. I think it has to be false knock because I hear no weird knocks or anything. Got any ideas?

I have attached my current tune, log and config(rename from .txt to .cfg). The log is when the car died after warm start and then I refired with about 18% throttle.
Thanks for any help!

cyclerage

iTrader: (59)

its all in the tune. take it somewhere else.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

Tape a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield to monitor the fuel pressure.

Also scan using the default .cfg file to see what the fuel trims are doing when the car wants to die.

I would also return the throttle cracker table to stock. And change the O2 rich/lean vs airflow to stock in mode 0-6 and to 450 mv from mode 8-16.

Russ Kemp