Fired the new engine up, ran it for 15 min, changed oil... now what?
06-24-2007, 09:23 PM
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fired the new engine up, ran it for 15 min, changed oil... now what? Fired it up, runs great. Let it idle for a few minutes, then revved it slowly through the RPM range, not going higher than 3K rpms but mostly staying betweem 1500-2500 rpm. After it reached operating temperature, I shut it down and let it cool off. I put all the shrouding and other crap back on, and when it was cool enough I changed the oil. Oil looked good, slightly cloudy but thats probably from the bearings wearing in and the rings doing their thing. I let it drain for a good 45 minutes, and then changed the filter and put more oil in.
I put the Rotella stuff in it, with the ZDDT additive crap, and used a WIX filter. I checked the coolant level, topped off the ps fluid, and re-checked all my connections. I don't have any insurance on the car, so for tonight its not leaving my driveway (AND ITS ABSOLUTELY KILLING ME!)
Putting insurance back on tomorrow morning, and then what? How do I drive it, what should I do, and how long should I do it for? I'm gonna change the oil again after I have 100 miles on it, but beyond that I have no idea. Thanks!
I put the Rotella stuff in it, with the ZDDT additive crap, and used a WIX filter. I checked the coolant level, topped off the ps fluid, and re-checked all my connections. I don't have any insurance on the car, so for tonight its not leaving my driveway (AND ITS ABSOLUTELY KILLING ME!)
Putting insurance back on tomorrow morning, and then what? How do I drive it, what should I do, and how long should I do it for? I'm gonna change the oil again after I have 100 miles on it, but beyond that I have no idea. Thanks!
06-24-2007, 09:33 PM
#2
If you ask 4 people for opinions on engine break-in, you will get 5 different answers. 
My engine builder advised me to keep it below 4K while doing this 10 times: moderately accelerate to 70, then slowly downshift through the gears, slowing the motor down with the tranny. No abrupt down shifts (or upshifts), just get it up to 70 each time and then let moderate engine braking slow it back down. I did it 20 times because I have a nice road nearby that's pretty much abandoned on weekends (business park) and because I'm ****.
Then, he said to drive it moderately for 500 miles, change the oil, and then drive it like I stole it.
My engine builder advised me to keep it below 4K while doing this 10 times: moderately accelerate to 70, then slowly downshift through the gears, slowing the motor down with the tranny. No abrupt down shifts (or upshifts), just get it up to 70 each time and then let moderate engine braking slow it back down. I did it 20 times because I have a nice road nearby that's pretty much abandoned on weekends (business park) and because I'm ****.
Then, he said to drive it moderately for 500 miles, change the oil, and then drive it like I stole it.
06-24-2007, 09:42 PM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How much should a new engine smoke? This didn't smoke at all until it started heating up, then it smoked quite a bit, seemed to cut down some after a few minutes but still smoked alot. Is this normal?
06-25-2007, 08:21 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Mike94ZLT1
How much should a new engine smoke? This didn't smoke at all until it started heating up, then it smoked quite a bit, seemed to cut down some after a few minutes but still smoked alot. Is this normal?
06-25-2007, 09:11 AM
#6
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if your talking about the engine smoking under the hood, yes it will smoke some and that is normal. its just grease from your hands, oil, ect. burning off from putting it together. itll stop after its all done burning off. nothing big. double check the seal on your valve covers and make sure no oil is leaking out and burning off your heads.
Jon
Jon
06-25-2007, 10:21 AM
#7
Launching!
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For my engines I do what you did. Let it warm up then change the oil. After letting it warm up again and making sure there's no leaks or adnormal noises I will take it out on the road. I'll drive it around normally for a bit and then start gradually making WOT pulls. If there are no problems after doing a few pulls I'd say the engines ready to go. I like to seat the rings and break in an engine how I'm really giong to be driving the car. I'll usually change the oil again too.
But like stated before everyone has a different oppinion about break in.
But like stated before everyone has a different oppinion about break in.
Trending Topics
06-25-2007, 11:39 AM
#8
Congratulations! It sounds like success - no leaks or funny noises, eh. I'm hoping to be at that point in about a month with my new 383. I'm not sure I'll have the discipline to keep the pedal off the floor for 500 miles, though!
In my experience on other engines, piston rings usually seat in about 200 miles or so. There is supposedly a small reduction in operating temperature when this happens. With a direct-reading temperature gauge, I like to think I can see when this happens.
In my experience on other engines, piston rings usually seat in about 200 miles or so. There is supposedly a small reduction in operating temperature when this happens. With a direct-reading temperature gauge, I like to think I can see when this happens.
06-26-2007, 12:34 AM
#9
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Livonia, Mi
Posts: 1,455
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I put about 78 miles on it tonight, running it through the rpm range. I took it about 15 miles on its maiden voyage, then came home and checked everything, and let it cool for about 3 hours. Then I took it out and drove it another 15-20 miles, slowly running through the rpms, then parked it for 2 and a half hours. Took it out one more time, on the expressway, running it up to 70 and then letting the engine slow it down. On the expressway here heading to detroit there is literally an exit and onramp every mile. So I'd get on, get up to 70, cruise at 70 for half a minute, then let the engine slow me down getting off, and then get right back on, and off, and on, and off for about 30 miles. Then I decided that was enough for one day, I hope to get a few hundred miles on it this week so I can take it to get tuned soon. Should I change the oil again at 100 miles?
06-26-2007, 01:18 AM
#10
LSxGuy widda 9sec Mustang
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Texas and Qatar
Posts: 3,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like to change it after the first warm-up cycle, then 500 miles, then 1000 then normal oil changes after that. The first oil change is cloudy because of the red-line assembly lube used and there is normally a few small wear particles on the drain plug magnet for the first couple of changes (rings), but nothing significant.
Thats what I always say for maintenance anyway, but as for my personal cars, they normally get the 'lifetime' oil, meaning when I change motors I change the oil. Yes I'm an extremely bad example, don't do what I do.
Thats what I always say for maintenance anyway, but as for my personal cars, they normally get the 'lifetime' oil, meaning when I change motors I change the oil. Yes I'm an extremely bad example, don't do what I do.
06-26-2007, 01:46 PM
#11
"My engine builder advised me to keep it below 4K while doing this 10 times: moderately accelerate to 70, then slowly downshift through the gears, slowing the motor down with the tranny. No abrupt down shifts (or upshifts), just get it up to 70 each time and then let moderate engine braking slow it back down"
this is exactly the way I do it too. always worked good for me. I also change fluid/filter after warmup, then after 100 miles. Id change one more time before you get it tuned just to be sure to get out all the assembly lube, and any dust that may have gotten in there or whtaever else. yes, expect to see some metal dust on the plug for a while. just no large pieces.
where you goin to get it tuned? sure did sound good too. cant wait for my ride.
this is exactly the way I do it too. always worked good for me. I also change fluid/filter after warmup, then after 100 miles. Id change one more time before you get it tuned just to be sure to get out all the assembly lube, and any dust that may have gotten in there or whtaever else. yes, expect to see some metal dust on the plug for a while. just no large pieces.
where you goin to get it tuned? sure did sound good too. cant wait for my ride.
06-27-2007, 09:33 AM
#15
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Drive it like you stole it. Break-In means It breaks or it stays In. If its built wrong no amount of Break-in period is going to fix it. Just delaying the inveitable. Geter up to temp and romp on it.
06-27-2007, 10:30 AM
#16
I put about 15-20 miles on the motor taking it up through the rpm's moderately and pulling it down a gear and using engine braking under high vacuum (helps to seat the rings).
I then beat the hell out of it.
I then beat the hell out of it.
06-27-2007, 10:40 AM
#17
TECH Senior Member
The rings will seat in the first 20 min of operation. That is why it should be taken to 4>4.5K rpms a few times as soon as it warms.
Then you drive it a different loads and gears, but not on highway. It needs to vary rpms for a while, about 3 heat cycles or so.
Check everything and hammer away.
Then you drive it a different loads and gears, but not on highway. It needs to vary rpms for a while, about 3 heat cycles or so.
Check everything and hammer away.
06-27-2007, 10:50 AM
#18
11Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
Posts: 1,294
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've only rebuilt an engine once. I was terrified for the first 30 miles or so. Finally, I said "**** it," and just beat the ever-lovin' **** out of it. Worked like a champ!
06-27-2007, 10:55 AM
#19
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Layton, UT
Posts: 548
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Classic procedure... have always believed in it too. Not sure how good of a motor it is you've put together, but I've always liked this little write-up... care of badasscars.com's Tech Tips page.
Originally Posted by badasscars.com
Q: What's the right way to break-in an engine?
A: There are a few steps that must be taken when starting a brand new engine. By far, the most critical and important thing is breaking-in the cam. Upon initial start-up, the engine MUST be run for 15 to 20 minutes at about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. This seats the lifters to the cam and vise verse. If you are using double or triple valve springs, you MUST remove the inner springs and break-in the cam using only the outer springs or you will surely end-up with a flat cam! Roller cams do not need to be broken-in, but ALL flat tappet cams must. Do NOT break-in your cam with non-detergent oil! This is old school and these days, you can't even get good non-detergent engine oil. Use a good, high grade oil like Valvoline 20w-50 or straight 30 wt., Castrol 20w-40 or Kendall. Once the cam has been broken-in, you can re-install the inner springs (if you're running them) and do all of the usual things like set the timing, adjust the carb and idle, etc. It's always a good idea to have a garden hose handy when breaking-in cams because there's usually a large air pocket in the cooling system and running an engine at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes can cause it to heat up. Just spray the radiator down while the engine is running and it will help keep things cool.
The second part of breaking-in an engine isn't really that important. I don't believe in driving under 60 MPH or keeping the revs below 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles. What I usually recommend is that after the cam is broken-in, go drive up a hill a couple of times, slowing and accelerating as you go up. This builds-up heat and puts a variable load on the engine which helps seat the rings. *****-footin' a new engine can cause the cylinders to glaze and the rings may never seat properly. As far as revving the engine? Go for it! You don't think we build race engines and drive them for 500 or 1,000 miles before we rev them up do you? Heck no! As soon as the cam is broken-in, it's at the red line, going down the track! (I love that part!) What you want to avoid on street engines besides *****-footin' around is getting on the highway and going the same speed for extended periods of time. It doesn't matter if it's 40MPH or 70MPH, just don't hold it there. Instead, vary your speed, pass a few people and then slow down for a bit, and then speed back up. This varies the engine load and helps things seat-in better. Be sure to change your oil and filter after the first hundred or so miles because when an engine breaks-in, little tiny, fine particles of metal are wearing-off inside and floating around in the oil. This is all pert of the break-in process and is totally normal.
A: There are a few steps that must be taken when starting a brand new engine. By far, the most critical and important thing is breaking-in the cam. Upon initial start-up, the engine MUST be run for 15 to 20 minutes at about 1,500 to 2,000 RPM. This seats the lifters to the cam and vise verse. If you are using double or triple valve springs, you MUST remove the inner springs and break-in the cam using only the outer springs or you will surely end-up with a flat cam! Roller cams do not need to be broken-in, but ALL flat tappet cams must. Do NOT break-in your cam with non-detergent oil! This is old school and these days, you can't even get good non-detergent engine oil. Use a good, high grade oil like Valvoline 20w-50 or straight 30 wt., Castrol 20w-40 or Kendall. Once the cam has been broken-in, you can re-install the inner springs (if you're running them) and do all of the usual things like set the timing, adjust the carb and idle, etc. It's always a good idea to have a garden hose handy when breaking-in cams because there's usually a large air pocket in the cooling system and running an engine at 2,000 RPM for 20 minutes can cause it to heat up. Just spray the radiator down while the engine is running and it will help keep things cool.
The second part of breaking-in an engine isn't really that important. I don't believe in driving under 60 MPH or keeping the revs below 4,000 RPM for the first 500 miles. What I usually recommend is that after the cam is broken-in, go drive up a hill a couple of times, slowing and accelerating as you go up. This builds-up heat and puts a variable load on the engine which helps seat the rings. *****-footin' a new engine can cause the cylinders to glaze and the rings may never seat properly. As far as revving the engine? Go for it! You don't think we build race engines and drive them for 500 or 1,000 miles before we rev them up do you? Heck no! As soon as the cam is broken-in, it's at the red line, going down the track! (I love that part!) What you want to avoid on street engines besides *****-footin' around is getting on the highway and going the same speed for extended periods of time. It doesn't matter if it's 40MPH or 70MPH, just don't hold it there. Instead, vary your speed, pass a few people and then slow down for a bit, and then speed back up. This varies the engine load and helps things seat-in better. Be sure to change your oil and filter after the first hundred or so miles because when an engine breaks-in, little tiny, fine particles of metal are wearing-off inside and floating around in the oil. This is all pert of the break-in process and is totally normal.
06-27-2007, 11:14 AM
#20
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by edwardzracing
Classic procedure... have always believed in it too. Not sure how good of a motor it is you've put together, but I've always liked this little write-up... care of badasscars.com's Tech Tips page.
