I need some feedback here. stock block, fried # 5+7 pistons. Sleeve FUBAR'd?
#1
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I need some feedback here. stock block, fried # 5+7 pistons. Sleeve FUBAR'd?
http://img77.imageshack.us/img77/511/img5859ho7.jpg
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3913/img5865tt2.jpg
Those two are the same cylinder, Next one is a different one. Anyone care to guess which ones these are???
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/5958/img5862mz5.jpg
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/1997/img5860dz6.jpg
I linked to them, because I didnt want anyone to have to bother with loading the huge images on the page. I was being nice to the (few) 56k'rs out there.
EDIT: The more and more I look at these pics, the more I think the block can't be saved. Someone with some intelligence (dont bother posting if you're going to say "Oh man that looks bad") please let me know whats up. Will the pitting at the top of the bore flake out and increase in size if I just hone out the other lines (super small, barely even hint them with the fingernail)? List other concerns as well, please
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/3913/img5865tt2.jpg
Those two are the same cylinder, Next one is a different one. Anyone care to guess which ones these are???
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/5958/img5862mz5.jpg
http://img74.imageshack.us/img74/1997/img5860dz6.jpg
I linked to them, because I didnt want anyone to have to bother with loading the huge images on the page. I was being nice to the (few) 56k'rs out there.
EDIT: The more and more I look at these pics, the more I think the block can't be saved. Someone with some intelligence (dont bother posting if you're going to say "Oh man that looks bad") please let me know whats up. Will the pitting at the top of the bore flake out and increase in size if I just hone out the other lines (super small, barely even hint them with the fingernail)? List other concerns as well, please
#2
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It looks like it can be honed, but pics do not show depth so a machinist that does LSx motors will tell you a a live glance.
The top sleeve doesn't even touch the piston, the inportant part is where the rings are. (You can tell from the ring all around the top of sleeve.
The top sleeve doesn't even touch the piston, the inportant part is where the rings are. (You can tell from the ring all around the top of sleeve.
#5
"Oh man that looks bad"....sorry I just had to do it. Actually it does not look that bad but pictures can be deceiving. This is a little trick which I learned when I use to do go kart engines and it works with big ones too. Go to home center and get some Muriatic acid for etching concrete (HCl) Carefully place a few drops on the aluminum piston residue the acid will dissolve the piston but not the sleeve. Once the aluminum is washed away, rub the area emery cloth wearing gloves you will get a better idea of how bad the cylinder wall is. Make sure you rinse all the acid away when you done cleaning and coat cylinder with oil to prevent rusting because it will otherwise.
Lanse
Lanse
Last edited by DadsYellowGoat; 07-02-2007 at 07:43 PM.
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Interesting. See here- I thought that the scoring was through the sleeve and into the "outersleeve" I guess you would call it? Ill have my mom bring home some acid-shes a lab supervisor at the local college.
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You gaulded the piston up against the sleeve, not a problem to hone out. If it is std bore(3.898") you need to hone to a 3.903-3.905 piston to be safe. Problem with tryin to hone back std is the gaulding may have went too far to salvage as a std bore.
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UPDATE on block/motor.
Its coming back from the machine shop the end of next week. I got a call today
Build consists of :
That block
That crank
Diamond dometop n2o pistons
Eagle H Beam rods/ARP 2000 bolts
Clevite bearings all around
Its coming back from the machine shop the end of next week. I got a call today
Build consists of :
That block
That crank
Diamond dometop n2o pistons
Eagle H Beam rods/ARP 2000 bolts
Clevite bearings all around