the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I dug up some of the Torque Specs for the Mains, Heads..etc..for my Build.

What is up with this degree **** after the first Torque Stage..

I know that you are goin to have Bolt stretch when you Torque them in, that is why you check them after a while, expecially some of the Head bolts, but what happened to the old way..first stage this, second stage this, and you were done..

Is there a way to take this degree **** and figure out what Torque it would be..

Example: Main Caps. calls for 15 ft/lbs, then 80* for the inners, 53* for the outers..
How about 15ft/lbs, then 70ft/lbs for the inners, 60ft/lbs for the outers.
The Heads I was going to go to 10ft/lbs, second stage 35ft/lbs, 65ft/lbs final then check them.
I am an Iron Block Engine..so I figure I would be able to get away with that cause there is alot less flex.
I did my LT1 the same way and didn't have any problems..good ole Iron Engines..alot easier to work with.

68chevypu

iTrader: (18)

the extra degrees of turn help the bolt strech. Its so you dont have to go back and recheck the bolts. I dont know if it matters that it is an iron block. If they are stock style bolts I would just follow the factory specs. Maybe someone else with more experience can chime in and help you out

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Better yet use ARP fasteners and you won't have to deal with the TTY aspect.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I've never had a problem using the regular GM Bolts, I am just goin to be NA, all Motor, so that is why I am goin that way. I am re-using the Main Bolts..they only have 12K on them, I know that they are already stretched, so as far as I am concerned, goin to what I had up there will work. I did that with my LT1 that I re-built, and never had a problem out of them.

The Head Bolts are GMPP Bolts, these are it here:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

If I had to, I could go to these..
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

ARP 12-pt studs

ARP 6-pt studs

ARP 6-pt bolts

GM TTY bolts




This is the ranking in order from most badass to least badass. You should definately upgrade to ARP.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Looks like I'll get them ARP ones...anyone need new GM Head Bolts, I have both sides..

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

haha, im in the middle of a H/C swap myself, just installed the cam today. I didn't skimp on anything, and I went ahead and got 'dem ARP 12-pt studs so I didn't have to BS around with angles and whatnot.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

I am goin to go with the ones that are in my Link.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Although the ARP bolts initially cost more they can be used multiple times, whereas if you reuse the OEM bolts there is always the risk of failure.