Opinions and Personally experiences with cams with intentions of a cam only setup..
#1
Opinions and Personal experiences with cams with intentions of a cam only setup..
Alright after trolling around daily and reading as much as I can about cams posted on here Im lost and confused. Ms3 ,Vindicator and so on.. Im looking to get the MOST through out my powerband without over reving the stock redline. I dont want to over work the stock block. The car isnt a daily but it does see the streets and when it does I get groceries real fast and I drove it like a stole it.. So what would be a recomended cam? And why?
Last edited by 217zenki; 09-02-2007 at 08:22 PM.
#2
TECH Fanatic
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gm makes what is called a hotcam and is a good choice if you dont drag race your car .
even a tr224 is a good setup and can nmake good power but if you are trying to stay at the stock 6k rpm redlines you may have to go custom . in this case you would get a lot of low end power instead of the high reving power .
Patrick g should be able to help you out with a custom cam that will work for what it sounds like you are trying to do .
good luck
even a tr224 is a good setup and can nmake good power but if you are trying to stay at the stock 6k rpm redlines you may have to go custom . in this case you would get a lot of low end power instead of the high reving power .
Patrick g should be able to help you out with a custom cam that will work for what it sounds like you are trying to do .
good luck
#4
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If you're going to go cam only (no heads, headers, etc.) then I'd go with something like a Comp 54-412-11, which is a 212/218 on a 114 LSA. This is a low lift cam (like .522/.529 with stock rockers). Replace the pushrods with some hardened 7.400" pushrods and upgrade to something like the Comp 915 Beehive springs or a set of GM LS6 springs and get a good tune for your PCM.
Many will say that this is a baby cam, and it is if you were going to race the car. But if you are not going to race the car and want a lot of torque which is what makes a street car fun, then stay conservative on your cam specs. You might also want to consider something like a Comp 54-414-11 which is a 216/220 with the same centerline. Regarding lift, stay below .550". The stock heads without porting don't flow well enough to merit any more lift. If you want more lope to your idle, go to about a 112 degree centerline. A good tune is really important!
If you had ported heads and a pair of good headers you could go to something like a 220/220 or a 224/224, but that's not what you said you wanted to do.
Steve
Many will say that this is a baby cam, and it is if you were going to race the car. But if you are not going to race the car and want a lot of torque which is what makes a street car fun, then stay conservative on your cam specs. You might also want to consider something like a Comp 54-414-11 which is a 216/220 with the same centerline. Regarding lift, stay below .550". The stock heads without porting don't flow well enough to merit any more lift. If you want more lope to your idle, go to about a 112 degree centerline. A good tune is really important!
If you had ported heads and a pair of good headers you could go to something like a 220/220 or a 224/224, but that's not what you said you wanted to do.
Steve
#5
Sorry let me clearify some.. My intentions are of this mod list.
qtp headers
tsp ture dual dumps
slp lid
slp bellow
160*thermo
pulley
I like to hit the track as much as possible but also want it streetable .. I dont mind a ruff idle just as long as it idles. lol.
I also will go have it tuned and pickup a ls6 intake if needed.. I dont mind buying needed parts for the head assembly much would much rather stay away from hogging the stock heads.. I have intentions later of maybe some heads but that in the far distance and if my 10bolt craps out then Ill pickup a moser9 and some 4.10's .
qtp headers
tsp ture dual dumps
slp lid
slp bellow
160*thermo
pulley
I like to hit the track as much as possible but also want it streetable .. I dont mind a ruff idle just as long as it idles. lol.
I also will go have it tuned and pickup a ls6 intake if needed.. I dont mind buying needed parts for the head assembly much would much rather stay away from hogging the stock heads.. I have intentions later of maybe some heads but that in the far distance and if my 10bolt craps out then Ill pickup a moser9 and some 4.10's .
#6
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iTrader: (12)
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
Regarding lift, stay below .550". The stock heads without porting don't flow well enough to merit any more lift.
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#8
TECH Senior Member
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I have a VHP_056 (Vinci High Performance >>>>) cam. It is 216/224 0.551/0.551 115 LSA with 5* advance ground in. Idle has a slight chop, power is from idle to about 5,900 RPM peak and will carry to rev limiter of 6,200 RPM. Not sure if this is what you are looking for, I got 40 hp from this cam when I was cam only.
#9
well, i would look at a intake closing point of around 40 deg ABDC for peak hp at 6000 rpm. after that, about the best you are going to do is a 228 to 230 intake duration with a ICL of around 106 degrees at .050 to set up the above-mentioned 40 deg. with headers, about the same or slightly less duration, given the ls1 intake. go with lsa of around 110 for idle. so:
228/230 110 +4
this gives an exhaust closing of 47 deg BBDC. when you specify a low peak hp point like this, it just becomes a game of squeezing as much valve activity in as possible, which means overlap. lift to be decided on use of dual valve springs. sounds like an aussie cam. racey idle due to, again, overlap and low peak rpms. new heads, ls6 would make this cam come alive.
my 2 cents and 15 minutes.............
228/230 110 +4
this gives an exhaust closing of 47 deg BBDC. when you specify a low peak hp point like this, it just becomes a game of squeezing as much valve activity in as possible, which means overlap. lift to be decided on use of dual valve springs. sounds like an aussie cam. racey idle due to, again, overlap and low peak rpms. new heads, ls6 would make this cam come alive.
my 2 cents and 15 minutes.............