Josh

iTrader: (9)

It seems as time passes I become more concerned with refinement and driveability than I do with all-out performance. As such, I've been contemplating swapping out my current cam for something a little smaller, but I'm trying to get some idea of just how much of a driveability improvement I can expect.

My current cam is an XE-R 228/232 110+1. I'm thinking of going with the AFR 224/228 114.

My other mods are...

- Standard Bolt-ons
- AFR 205s (milled .024")
- Cometic .040" gaskets
- FAST 90/90
- Kooks LTs/Catted Y
- GMMG Cat-Back

I know driveability is a relative concept, but do those of you who have reasonable ideas of what driveability is (i.e. you're not convinced your T-ReX'd LS1 makes a great DD) think the effort involved in swapping the cams would be worth the driveability improvement?

I do a significant amount of driving in town so I want something that's easy to drive at lower speeds, easy to get rolling from stop lights, and has good idle characteristics.

I have a wideband and HP Tuners to do the tuning.

Thanks for the input,
Josh

chriswtx

iTrader: (5)

StreetnStrip

iTrader: (7)

What about the 224 230 581/588 LSa 114 Cam from Comp. I put a few of these cams in and I know guys were hitting almost 400hp with stock heads. Also the driveablity of the cam is good to.

MM98

iTrader: (13)

Moving up to a 114 lsa will help a ton, be alot more driveable at part throttle & have the good idle you're looking for... And the duration of that cam should work great with those heads & bring back some bottom end grunt... I'm thinking about about this cam as well, but on a 112+2 or 113+2... Like you, my car's a dd & care more about everyday driving rather than wide open performance, which I don't think is gonna be affected with that cam.

-Mike

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

I have the 224/230 XER 114 installed at 113. If things go well I should get it fired off this weekend. I went the 205 AFR's @ 62cc along with the .040" Cometic. My static comes in at 11.2:1. Ported FAST 90/90 and long tubes with the underdrive. I am an auto with a 3400 Yank and a 9" 3.70. I am hoping to put down over 400 RWHP.

From my research and own knowledge I think this cam should be a good compromise for a real driver with all the amentities of a stock set-up. We will see, good luck.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

thats sounds like a good setup and should get over 400rwhp no prob, especially with the fast 90/90. Anyways, going on a 114LSA will help out driveabilty alot.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

224/228 .581/.588 110 + 0 great driving and makes great torque and hp under the curve..been running it for 15,000 miles and love it compared to the much larger spec cam I used to run...makes 451 rwhp

PREDATOR-Z

The cam you have is one of my favorite all around grind, it has everything, trq, lope, power up high.
I wouldn't change it if I were you. Your driveability is only due to one thing, TUNE. get a PRO to tune your car and watch all your problems go away.
Your tune is not spot on that is what you are facing and trying to fix it the wrong way.
10* positive overlap is peanuts.

ELMiN8oR

agree !

I've seen bigger cams with no problems concerning daily driving.
it all depends on who tune your car

Pewterme

That's the exact cam I have that was recommended to me by Patrick G. I really like the power and sound this cam has. My tuner is rather new but did a fair job. I still have bucking below 1500 rpm, but this is a minor annoyance since it's usually just going thru parking lots or such, also it's not a DD. The only other problem is when the air cond. is on the idle wants to stick around 1200 for a few seconds after I come to a stop. If the a/c isn't on it falls perfectly. When I get heads I'll probably get an expert tuner to hopefully take care of those problems. I'm actually wanting Vengeance to do the head work for me and I don't think they would have any problem tuning. Josh, what kind of hp and tq did you end up with??

Josh

iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the input, everyone.

Pewterme: I haven't dynoed the car yet, so I'm not sure what kind of power it's making. I'm eager to know, though, so I hope to get it dynoed sooner rather than later.

Josh

Cobra4B

iTrader: (9)

I think the 110+1 lsa is what's making it a bit nasty... I'm running a G5-X2 which is 232/240 .595/.608 but on a 114lsa.

Drivability is all in who tunes it.

PREDATOR-Z

THe X2 has 12* positive overlap while his 228/232 only 10* overlap, yours should be worse.
IT IS THE TUNE

KONG

iTrader: (4)

^^^^^^+1

Doc

iTrader: (9)

I'm with Mark et al, it's all in the tune.

Josh

iTrader: (9)

The tune is fine. Both the VE table and MAF were tuned with a wideband on the street, so the vast majority of the fuel trims are off by no more than 4%. I've also spent hours working on the idle and the other smaller things.

I've been paying more attention to what it is that bothers me when I'm driving, and I think that I was contributing a lot of the problems to the cam when in fact they are a result of the clutch. I've decided I'm going to swap my SPEC Stage III for an LS7 clutch and see how that changes the driving characteristics before I mess with the cam.

Thanks again for the help.

Josh

PBMFIsMe

iTrader: (5)

Its not necessarily fueling. Timing has everything to do with bucking and surging as well as some other things such as shaking badly at idle or stalling. Tuning fuel alone is only half a tune.

The SPEC III may be contributing, but I have to put my .02 in as it being tune related as well.

Whatever you do new cam or new clutch.....good luck !

WeathermanShawn

iTrader: (1)

Hey Josh, I'm also running the "Predator-Z street cam". 228/232 110+2

Though I think the 224/228 114 would work for you, don't you think you would miss that nice lope from the 228/232?

I haven't had any drivability problems. I like the lope and as Predator-Z noted, it's a great all around cam.

Your call.

Good luck Josh..WeathermanShawn..