How to destroy a perfectly good motor with a 10 cent washer
#1
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How to destroy a perfectly good motor with a 10 cent washer
I had this on another board, but I need some help getting this sorted out. I want to get this engine back together and built just for stock. I will at least need the block resleeved and one new piston with rings to replace what happened. Here are the details.
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I was chasing a small vacuum leak and removed the intake from the engine. I have the washers that came with the FAST under the manifold cap screws to help spread the load. When I took the manifold off I didn't notice but one of the washers came off the cap screw and rolled right into the number 7 hole. The valve must have been wide open because the damage is only in the cylinder. the bowls are clean.
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It was late, I was tired, and I've had this manifold on and off so many times I was sloppy. Below are some pics that will tell the story a little better.
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I am sussing the situation with Tony Mamo and as soon as we know more I'll post up on the direction I'm going to go with. I don't have much money right now, so I'm thinking Forged 347, or if Tony can do some magic on the heads maybe a forged 402. More will be revealed...
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The major damage to the head
cylinder - crack on the right, gouge on the left, broken ring land in center
closeup of broken ring land
custom valve reliefs
overall shot of the chamber - note the minor damage on the top quench pad
the sucker that made this all possible - with my help...
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How's that for shooting yourself in the foot? I'll document this as I go along, the teardown, build-up, etc. Might as well fess up and publicize it..
Too bad, it was a sweet running motor... The next one will be
---
I was chasing a small vacuum leak and removed the intake from the engine. I have the washers that came with the FAST under the manifold cap screws to help spread the load. When I took the manifold off I didn't notice but one of the washers came off the cap screw and rolled right into the number 7 hole. The valve must have been wide open because the damage is only in the cylinder. the bowls are clean.
---
It was late, I was tired, and I've had this manifold on and off so many times I was sloppy. Below are some pics that will tell the story a little better.
---
I am sussing the situation with Tony Mamo and as soon as we know more I'll post up on the direction I'm going to go with. I don't have much money right now, so I'm thinking Forged 347, or if Tony can do some magic on the heads maybe a forged 402. More will be revealed...
---
The major damage to the head
cylinder - crack on the right, gouge on the left, broken ring land in center
closeup of broken ring land
custom valve reliefs
overall shot of the chamber - note the minor damage on the top quench pad
the sucker that made this all possible - with my help...
---
How's that for shooting yourself in the foot? I'll document this as I go along, the teardown, build-up, etc. Might as well fess up and publicize it..
Too bad, it was a sweet running motor... The next one will be
#3
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The heads don't look too bad. Ive seen chambers with a lot more damage have repairs done. LS1 blocks can be had for a couple hundred bucks now, and pistons and rods are starting to come down in price. Hell if you wanted to stay on the cheap you could just get a set of forged pistons for the stock rods (if theyre not bent) and you would really be able to keep cost down.
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that head can be fixed cheap. and if those are shelf pistons, you can get one with rings for cheap too. rods are usually sold as a set so you might pay there. and ls1 blocks are cheap as crap now too. i'd say the most expensive part will be labor to put it back together.
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Actually dude. If I were you (unless you know how to build a shortblock yourself)
trash everything but the heads and cam. Get a new 347 from like TSP which is like less then 3k and throw your heads (after you get the one repaired) and cam in it.
after you buy a new piston, new rings, rods, block, pay a shop for rebuild labor, etc, you could have bought a new shortblock which will be way more reliable.
trash everything but the heads and cam. Get a new 347 from like TSP which is like less then 3k and throw your heads (after you get the one repaired) and cam in it.
after you buy a new piston, new rings, rods, block, pay a shop for rebuild labor, etc, you could have bought a new shortblock which will be way more reliable.
Last edited by jermzz; 09-17-2007 at 12:36 AM.
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#9
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That sucks man. We've all made our mistakes. Some big, some small. I think it comes with the territory or working on our own stuff. If it makes you feel better, I caught my car on fire last year at the track when a fuel line came off during a run and started dumping on a header. Same situation, tired, in a rush, etc. +1 on a reason to go bigger and better.
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The upside is that you can buy a brand new LS6 long block (caddy motor) from a GM distributor for around $3k. It is the exact same motor as the LS6 Zo6 motor. There was a post on another forum about it that I saved to my Firefox favorites. I am not at home right now, but later (if you're interested) I could post the link and part number.
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Thanks for the kind words and also the humor. Can't lose that for sure. Since I posted this I posted another thread after I talked to Tony Mamo and here is what I am going to do. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/784215-more-10-cent-washermania.html The link contains the motor workup and associated components. The really big thing I want to do now is get the block resleeved and buy a new piston so I can put the motor back to stock. I'm thinking of putting it into my truck. Can anyone help with a recommendation of a shop in NJ near Bergen County (Northeast NJ) that can resleeve that block for me. The only thing wrong with it is the crack in the cylinder wall.