robertbartsch

I'm thinking about an iron stroker...

Block = new LQ4 iron block (clearanced??)
Crank = 4.125
Pistons = forged dished -15
Rods = 6.125 forged

Car is street car - no racing, NOS or forced induction - just a straight motor setup

Questions:
1. A good idea or should I go with something else?
2. I assume no machining will be required if all parts are new?
3. Will seller balance before shipping?
4. Any other considerations for assembly?

alexWS6

Iron block will add quite a bit of weight and its basically overkill unless you intend to spray a ton or go with a big F.I. setup

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

You will have a strong block thats for sure.However I question whether the iron block only weights 75lbs more than stock block.Considering I had an iron block and did before and after weights and IMHO 100-105lbs is more accurate.The front of your car will sag about 1.5 inches more than stock also.I would use all the parts you suggested but stay with the factory alum block.The small increase in cubes doesnt offset the extra lbs.

robertbartsch

Hey 422:
are you saying go with the 3.9 bore in the alumium block and go with a 4.125 stroker crank?\

What does this work out to in cubes - 383?

I dont want to spend the bucks on a Darton-sleeved aluminum block...if that is what you are suggesting...

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

Going with the 4.125" crank in a 3.9" bore will have big clearance issues. If you get the block clearanced it would a 394 CID verses the LQ4 415 CID.

robertbartsch

Really?

...would the same block clearance issues be present in the LQ4 block?

Thanks..

rodent

iTrader: (1)

In the GM LS1 Service manual it states a 183lbs for the 6.0L block and a 91lbs for the LS1 block. Difference = 92lbs

I think PSJ had measured both blocks at one time and I thought his difference was closer to 80lbs.

1.5 inches???? Thats alot of sag for just 92lbs! I'll have to put my 95lb wife on my hood and see how much mine sags. Just seams like too much for those springs to drop that much. I'm going with 6.0 iron because its much cheaper to build and should handle the 15lbs of boost I'm going to throw at it.

robertbartsch

Rodent:
Yeh, I like your thinking....after all, my F-body is not a real sports car and all the roads where I drive are straight not curvey ...so who cares about not being able to corner like a Porsche. I'll take the extra 80lbs on the nose and get a bunch more HP...

A Darton-sleeved block is too pricey at $3,500....give me a break!

...I routinely blow their doors off now so with a iron stroker I could also blow their roof and other body parts off too...

...I was actually going to buy one at one point ...drove many Porsches ...they are "no power pigs"...you have to wind out the motors to 6K before anything happens... they cost WAY too much for what you get...

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

Resleeved block from ARE is $2400.00.Why not use your factory block (not re-sleeved)with stroker crank.You would have a 383.If the GM service manual says 92 lbs I would believe that for the iron block.I know it is more than 75 lbs.My car went to ARE stock,came back with iron block ATI D-1 and chrome-moly roll bar weight increase 245 lbs

robertbartsch

Does the ARE resleeved block use a Darton sleave? I've read where Darton's are the only reliable way to increase bore size in an aluminum block...?

Lingenfelter sells Darton blocks for about $3,500.

383LQ4SS

iTrader: (33)

I wouldnt worry too much about the extra weight unless you are trying to build an ultra light racer. My car does not sag one bit...as a matter of fact it rides high. I have removed all the emmissions equipment, relocated batt to rear and a few other small things. No problem!

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

Yes it is a Darton sleeve.They don't have the problems that other shops have.The ARE shop car is capable of mid 8s with this block.I'm using it and plan on putting a huge shot of nitrous to it.If you due the math on the price difference from purchase of 6.0 block,machine work etc it looks very attractive.You could always call Barry at ARE he would be more informative than me.A quick call could be very enlightening.Your looking at a 1500-1700 $ difference without the extra pounds.

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

It does'nt matter what you remove you still have 90 lbs more than what you would doing the same mods with alum block.Gravity still applies,more weight more sag up front.

robertbartsch

Ok Thanks...

I also owned an 95 LT1 Camaro a few years back. It had an iron block and alumium heads....

...OK so my LS1 SS corners better than that car but I did not consider the LT1 as a dog either...

So I guess $1,800 or so is a big difference for me... ...I'm not sure I would go the Darton sleaved block to save 80lbs... ..it does not seem worth it to me...

It seems a while back iron blocked motors were more common but now it seems more people are going with aluminum...probably a function of more choices being available today, right?

Does anyone expect prices of Darton sleaved blocks to decline any time soon?

rodent

iTrader: (1)

But that $1500-$1700 could also buy a new crossmember, light weight carpet, light weight wheels/slicks, suspension, and some other engine go-fast goodies. If you're on a budget like me, the iron block makes more sense. If you don't mind spending the bucks, then I'd say go with alum. You can't go wrong with ARE's alum blocks.

robertbartsch

What cost are ARE blocks,,,,does the $2500 include everything?

Why so much less than LPE?

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

Don't know why,other than LPE is very pricey on everything(top quality).

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Robert said in another thread...

If cost is a factor than the iron block would be less expensive.

If I did it all over again I would save up and get a C5R block.

RyanJ

I think if you look...you can get a C5R block and moldex crank (used of course) for 4-5g's. not bad if you ask me. also, get the iron block, but only use a 4" stroke. NA, it will work better. take the money you save over the resleeved block and buy some T&D rockers and crane liftes....SOLID ROLLA baby!

robertbartsch

Ryan:
I like low end torque in a street car; would'nt a longer stroke give you lower end tork???? ..i already have full roller rockers and "r" lifters....i had not considered a solid lifter cam, however...

isn;t a 4" stroker crank very similar to the stock crank? ...is this worth it?