Is this a pretty good cam Cam Guru's
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Is this a pretty good cam Cam Guru's
I'm thinking of a cam as part of my winter projects. This car is DD in the summer and milage is somewhat important. Right now I have a LS6 intake and also over the winter I plan on LT's and a stall. So the cam I'm thinkin of is a Comp 216/220 .525/.532 on a 114. If it will work out good, what's a good matchin stall? Thanks guys.
#3
Yeah I would have to say that's too small as well. If you want a cam that behaves like stock and still makes good power I would go with a 224/224 on a 114. The cheater that Thunder sells would be a good one to.
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A mild cam can be just the ticket for a daily driven car that needs good manners and excellent fuel economy. At -10 overlap, it should idle well and give excellent throttle response, while still boosting mid and upper-end performance.
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
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I agree with hammertime with keeping it smaller for near stock or better fuel economy. I would use a custom grind cam with some Cam Motion lobes. I would use a .320" intake lobe (.544" lift w/1.7's) at 216* @.050" duration and a .340" exhaust lobe (.578" lift) at 220* @.050" duration. I would then run a 113* LSA advanced 3* to a 110* ICL. This still gives you -8* of overlap @ .050". Either the Comp Cam you had listed or this cam I gave should work well with a 2500 stall converter. The converter will give a little more stall but stock like lock up for fuel economy down the highway.
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I'm thinking of a cam as part of my winter projects. This car is DD in the summer and milage is somewhat important. Right now I have a LS6 intake and also over the winter I plan on LT's and a stall. So the cam I'm thinkin of is a Comp 216/220 .525/.532 on a 114. If it will work out good, what's a good matchin stall? Thanks guys.
Last edited by JPH; 12-12-2007 at 07:37 PM.
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A couple of blokes over here had good results with that cam, but, I would recommend it with a little more valve lift. Maybe the XR273HR, 212/218 with .550-.560 valve lift would suit your application.
As mentioned, it will idle well, not too much lope, but will produce a tangible performance improvement.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Macca
As mentioned, it will idle well, not too much lope, but will produce a tangible performance improvement.
Good luck with it.
Cheers,
Macca
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#10
^^^Werd. If you want gas mileage buy a Prius. I've never heard so many people complain about gas mileage as what they do on this board. Its a performance car. Do you want to go fast and have lots of power or save gas? Besides the difference in gas mileage between the cam your looking at and a 224 would be negligable anyways.
#11
I'm in the middle of my winter project, with similar thoughts on changing cams (never done it....should be fun). I was initially just considering the comp cam one notch below the one you are looking at, the 212/218 114 and got a similar reaction from the site as you did. Comp's description "Good torque and and very good mid range power. Good performance cam." seemed appealing, and I read an article where they took a bone stock LS1 crate engine, changed the cam to the 212/218 114, and got 30 hp out of it.
A lot of folks on the site though have been pretty positive on the TR224 so I may go that route. I do not want to sacrifice mid range power for top end, 6000+ HP.
Mark M.
A lot of folks on the site though have been pretty positive on the TR224 so I may go that route. I do not want to sacrifice mid range power for top end, 6000+ HP.
Mark M.
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^^^Werd. If you want gas mileage buy a Prius. I've never heard so many people complain about gas mileage as what they do on this board. Its a performance car. Do you want to go fast and have lots of power or save gas? Besides the difference in gas mileage between the cam your looking at and a 224 would be negligable anyways.
#15
Have to disagree here. Part of making power is making efficient power. Any dumb *** could build a 500hp engine that gets a sweet 5mpg and takes a gallon to start it. I think I would rather make 300hp+ and stay around the 31mpg I'm getting. I know I will loose some but as a stated the car is D/D in the summer and when I parked it gas was $3.40 plus.
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Man everyones ******* the small cams... IMO that wouldn't be a bad choice, might wanna look at something like the TSP 220/220. Similar duration won't spin crazy high and still has good lift. I know there's a few other similar cams like it too... You could always get 216/220 and add higher ratio RR down the line, they would free up a few more ponies. As far as the stall goes go with what's all ready been said, 2500-2800 range.
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A mild cam can be just the ticket for a daily driven car that needs good manners and excellent fuel economy. At -10 overlap, it should idle well and give excellent throttle response, while still boosting mid and upper-end performance.
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
Will a 224+ cam make more HP? Probably so...
Will a 224+ cam make the same power below 3000rpm? Probably not...
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Someone that goes to the track but once or twice a year and wants a car that has good mid range power for the street. I wish I had thousands of dollars to put into my car, but I can't afford it. So you just gotta make do. And besides it's gonna be better than stock.
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As long as you dont go past the lift maximum on the 918 springs it cost the same. You still should tune it, you still have to get springs retainers, pushrods and everything else. Small cams cost around the same price as the big cams. I dont go to the track very often at all and I can assure you that power under 3000 rpm has never benefitted me in the least. In what situation would you need or want power under 3000 rpm?