Tin Indian

And folks keep posting about low oil pressure after they do a cam, timing chain change.

Has anyone tried fabricating a gasket to install between the oil pump and pickup tube yet?

Check out my thread below >

https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...rue#Post576911

Any input?

Tin Indian

Another thing...

Never - Ever - Never re-use the old O ring!

Thunder Racing sells an O ring that is slightly different from the GM part. It's a light blue color. I would highly suggest you buy this before bolting up that pickup tube to the pump.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

I don't think a gasket would work IMO. Plenty of shops do oil pumps every day, yet you never read of someone having o-ring problems when a competent LS1 shop does the work. I think there are allot of people who reuse the o-ring.

Also when your installing the Rollmaster Double roller you have to space the oil pump about 3mm forward. While the pickup tube has to kinda stretch that extra difference, I think most of the time the pickup tube ends up being off-center to the pump causing cavitation on one side of the o-ring even if its in the correct location. Unless the whole pickup tube assembly is bent forward some I could easily see where problems could arise, especially without removing the oil pan.

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

I agree and feel that this is the reason I am having this problem. I ran a rollmaster and reused my o ring when I swapped my cam. I was careful but after thinking about it a while, I think the added 3mm spacers are contributing to the problem. Is there anyway to bend the pick up tube forward without completely removing the oil pan and pulling the motor. I am thinking of going with a single timing chain when I take the o ring back out. The sad thing is I had the ASP pulley laythed to use a double roller and I won't be able to return the timing chain. Then there is the oil pump that may also be defective. I get 18lbs at idle but it has42lbs at 1500 and 58 at 3,000.

Tin Indian

Well Joseph, you may have a point, but I can speak from my own experience. When installing my TR220 cam, TEA heads, and [single] Rollmaster chain, I made absolutely sure that the O ring (not a new one) was on the pickup tube properly prior to bolting it up. I was absolutely **** about this.

Anyway, after suffering from the same oil pressure problems so many here have had, I pulled the front off the motor and installed a new O ring from Thunder... Bingo > the fix!

BTW, the old O ring was nowhere to be found! I am convinced some invisable aliens ran off with it.

5,000 miles later. Still great oil pressure. 40 at hot idle and 55-60 at freeway speed. Never varies....

You may not agree with me about the gasket, but if I ever tear this engine apart again, I will fab a gasket to go between the pump and the pickup tube. I think it is insurance. Bottom line; The engine will not suck air if there is a positive gasket seal between the pump and the tube.

Just my opinion....

Ron,

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Bowtieman4life,

Your probably gonna have to remove the pump anyway to fix the low oil pressure problem either way. I'd plan on pulling the pan loose so you have the extra room. I've been able to bend the pickup tube assembly forward enough to line up correctly with a shimmed out pump. Not bending the tube itself as the tube is pretty stout, it ends up bending the support bracket welded to the tube which is bolted to one of the main cap bolts. If you do that and carefully reassemble the tube with a new o-ring I'd think your problems would disappear.

-Joseph-

iTrader: (12)

Ron, I just don't think there may be enough room for a gasket to make a complete seal. The part of the tube opposite the small bolt gets very thin. I think some kind of round plastic spacer above the o-ring that keeps the o-ring centered would be better if one could fit, kinda like a fuel injector has the little plastic bushing to keep the o-rings in place. I've been getting those new blue o-rings as well, I guess GM made them a little thicker than those soft brown ones they used to have.

Tin Indian

Joseph...Agreed

You know, if we were talking about an F15 here, we would have a machined groove that the O ring would rest in. Unfortunatly, this ain't no F15.

Anyway, there has got to be a better why to seal these to parts togather...

The whole thing is "iffy" at best!

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

Any chance I can break the support bracket by pulling on it. I figure all I need to do is move it 3mm. Part of me want to just go to a single roller. Also, where can I get the blue gasket. Does GM sell it or do I have to go through Thunder Racing.

Thanks

horist

i bought a 5 pack of gaskets... (used them all too! would start putting the pickup tube up to the pump... didn't like how it was going in... time for new gasket heh

The gaskets were genuine GM parts... and they were also light blue.

Bowtieman4life

iTrader: (1)

I didn't use any silicone gasket maker RTV on the spacers. Do I use it on both sides. As for the O-Ring , does GM carry the same one? Also, can I use two o-rings to help the leaking problem?

Thanks

Krazy98Z28

iTrader: (12)

Yes the light blue O-ring comes from GM

Buckshot

I used the dual Rollmaster on my '02 MN6 C5 and have no oil pressure issues. I reused the original o-ring and it seated perfectly when I assembled it to the new ported oil pump I installed. My cold start pressure is 60 psi, the hot idle is 45-50 psi and WOT is ~80 psi.

We did my buddy's '99 A4 C5 the same way and got the same results on his.

Go figure.

robertbartsch

i installed a new pump and double rollmaster chain...

....I replaced the o-ring with a new blue one, and installed the pick up tube BEFORE I tightened the pump bolts....


...this makes all the difference since the o-ring can't get cocked...

...i am surpirsed by all the o-ring problems people are having...

...the rollmaster instructions SUK!

1999_SS_M6

BUCKSHOT: What kind of ported pump did you use?

I'm about 7 days from a tear-down myself, and I'm beginning to question the whole idea of messing with the pump or timing set. I only have 24K on the car, and I can never seem to figure out if the problem is with the installers, the design, or the parts!

I'm all about leaving the can of worms shut when possible. I know I would shoot myself if bolt it all back together and have a pump failure down the road, but I'm not entirely convinced it's worth the worry, or hassle to replace it.

Buckshot

1999_SS_M6: Do not despair. No need to question whether or not to go ahead. We'd never cracked an LS1 open before doing our C5's and the only problem we ran into was an incompatibility on one of my 5.3l heads and the Cometic gasket. The ported pump I got was from MMS along with the h/c.

The hint above - inserting the tube before tightening the oil pump bolts - is a goodie. We didn't do it that way but that only means there's more than one correct way to do it.

NataSS Inc

iTrader: (9)

I didnt bother reading the entire thread so if I restate something, sorry.

-IMHO when you do a cam in our cars that inhearently have a bad oil pump, why not just spend the extra 175 for a ported pump from one of our sponsors? Since your going to have the front tore off the motor you might as well replace a crappy factory oil pump. I went ahead and did this when I did my cam and heads swap and havent even had to worry about it since.

Just my .02

Constrictor 98TA

Some of you may remember all of my own paranoia when I was going through this part of my engine assembly.

To make a long story short, I installed a Rollmaster double chain with the spacers, and I reused the original o-ring. My oil pressure is just as good as it was stock. About 35 PSI at warm idle, about 45 PSI at cold idle, near 60 PSI at cold acceleration, and about 45 PSI at warm acceleration.

I guess I'm one of the lucky ones!

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that's the way I did mine also; if people are really putting the pickup tube in after the bolts are tightened, now I can understand why there are so many problems! Just seems like common sense to me . . .

robertbartsch

i dont think there was a problem with the pump gears in the stock units ...it is the spring valve thing that keeps jamming, however....


i replaced my pump but i would not hessitate to re-use my old pump, again if necessary....