onebad636

iTrader: (13)

It just started 2 days ago. Everything was fine and then wammo it started pinging under a load. you can have it to the floor and it will still ping. Running 93 octane fuel and this is the 2nd tank and it still pings. Any help would be appreciated. I am going to replace the plugs and clean the MAF today.

LS698ta

iTrader: (3)

run a cleaner in your gas tank. I run a techron cleaner every oil change. clean your maf sensor,make sure all your plug wires are in all the way. What kind of gas are you using? I had a problem with shell v power on my car, it would always ping and even wanted to die on me once, I switched to chevron and the pinging stopped

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

try some top end cleaner, sea foam, gm top engine cleaner. Either run through the fuel rail with a canister, or see the sticky on sea foaming your engine. It is worth a shot and wont hurt anything.

radkon

iTrader: (2)

I assume the car was tuned prior to this. If you have access to a tuner or scanner see if it is recording KR. Do you know if your area uses "winter oxygenated" fuel? This fuel comprised of up to 10% ethanol has been known to cause issues with spark that is set "near the limit".

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

It has been tuned with HP tuners but never dyno tuned. I think the tune is pretty close because it starts doesn't die and has tons of power. I live in Alabama so I doubt that it has winter oxywhatever fuel. Not sure though.

Asmodeus

did you get your 2nd tank of gas from the same place as the first one?

allthrotle

iTrader: (2)

If the tune was aggressive with timing you might want to put in some colder plugs, I had to, and keep running good gas

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

3rd tank of gas, 3 different stations and brands, cleaned the mass air, still pings all the gas for the last 2 tanks has been 93 octane.

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

What actually causes it to ping, timing? Fuel? combination? I thought that maybe my knock sensor was retarding the timing too much but it still has just as much power so i dont think that it is the timing. What could of changed all I have done to it is change from an SLP lid to a MTI clear lid and cleaned the mass air. Do you think the mass air or the O2's could be bad causing it to run too lean?

King Nothing

iTrader: (9)

runnin crappy gas

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

have you changed your fuel filter lately?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

I have heard of the connectors rusting on the knock sensors.

Evidently you can trap water under the manifold and it does a number on the contacts.

Hope you get it fixed.

stevied916

iTrader: (30)

Too much timing and/or bad gas causes it. I would change the oil filter and seafoam through the brake booster hose. Both of those should be under $20 and only take less than 30 minutes

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

Where is the knock sensor on the LS1?

hokie00 TA

iTrader: (4)

in the valley under the intake.

onebad636

iTrader: (13)

That sucks! So you have to pull the intake off to replace it? Could it cause it to ping? Would my valvetrain noise cause a false knock or not?

heavymetals

iTrader: (3)

Yes to all three.

sum guy

iTrader: (4)

First thing I would do is make sure your fuel pressure is in spec. Pinging is caused by pre-ignition (gas lights before plug fires) Could be engine overheating, timing (tune, computor,bad sensor ect.) Running lean, compression too high (could be caused by carbon build up in a stock engine)
Hope that helps.

SonnyG

Ok so I may have a pretty good Idea...You said that it still pings under wot?.....What kind of plugs are you running?....Are they all gapped the same?....I cant count the number of times that I bought plugs that have a different gap that are supposedly the same type!!!Are all of your coils within spec?......Whats your timing set to?....
Have you tried to clean it out with sea foam etc?Have you switched the fuel filter?
Clean the injectors out lately?.....I suggest also a 50/50 mix of race/pump gas.....
Or 93 + serious octane boost......

DaddySS

Ping is caused by temperature, deposits on the pistons, low octane fuel, too hot plugs, too much timing, not enough fuel, air leak (too lean) or oil vapors and air leak from like a bad PCV valve. So if it just started then eliminate the things that haven't changed - timing, type of plugs, and I assume that since it didn't start gradually - deposits. So that leaves you with fuel, air leak and temperature. I would start by replacing the fuel fliter, make sure it isn't running hotter, clean the injectors, check the fuel pressure, and check for vacuum leaks.