MUSTANGEATER

iTrader: (10)

I've tried to use search to find some of these answers but haven't had much luck so far.

What are the pro's and con's of using each type of block for a bigger cube application?

Can the aliminum block handle big shots (300 and up) of Nitrous?

Does the Iron block bolt right up in an ls1 f-body?

Non block related question here but..

What's the max compression I can run on 93 octane (natrually aspirtated of course)


Thanks for all the help

Floyd

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

You can get more cubes out of an iorn block without re-sleving it. But the iorn block is gona be heavier. The iorn block can take more abuse than the aluminum block, but you cant run as much compression with the iorn block without using race gas. The Iorn block does bolt right up to the LS1

Liquidnutz

1. YES Aluminum can handle BIG SHOTS, take the fellas at ARE for example. More expensive route to go but you can get more cubes that way.

2. I have heard mixed emotions on this one so I cant be sure. Engine components bolt up fine, the accessories are a tad bit tricky from what I have heard, I am no expert on that part though so dont take what I say on that as gospel.


Compression, I run 11:7:1 currently with no problems

Hope this helps a little

Smoke_Ford

Keep in mind the iron block does not dissipate heat nearly as fast.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Iron block adds on about 90 lbs, but can handle the abuse of a big shot, turbo, or supercharger. The darton resleeved is a little more than twice the cost after machine work fees, but it is lighter and can handle a big shot also. Depends on how much you have to spend. I am finishing up a iron 422 right now, and changed k-member and deleted AC to make up the weight difference.

10.5 Dave

iTrader: (5)

This has been discussed quite a bit.The only positive of the iron block is cost.The alum block when properly prepped can take very large shots and high boost.The fastest LS1 based setups are running alum blocks.Keep in mind if adding a blower or turbo with an iron block,you will have 150-175 extra lbs up front.The iron blocks tend to overheat much easier than alum.

VINCE

iTrader: (1)

I would go alum. I could not imagine adding another 90lbs to my 3800lb raceweight.. Not too mention I am going boost next. So I would be 4klbs b4 you know it.. Even with weight reduction I would have to take a lot out just to get down to 3600lbs with a iron block.. The lighter car making the same power as the heavier car is going to win every time with all other things being equal..

MUSTANGEATER

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the help guys I appreciate it. If the aliminum block is capable of handling the big huge shots and weighs less I see no reason for not going with it.

Looks like I'll start to build my 388 All bore pretty soon

extremecorvette

I have a block for sell that comes honed, new hardened Dura-Bond cam bearings, and new ARP main studs. Some people think the dry sleeves are better than the wet sleeves. I called Darton who makes the dry sleeves for Agostino racing and the wet sleeves. The tec said the wet sleeves are far better and can take more abuse, and that the dry sleeves are milled very thin to get a 4.125" bore. He said Darton has been using wet sleeves for years in motors that make over 1000 hp with out any problems. Also with the wet sleeves you get better heat transfer. Morgan Machine Shop are setting the motor up for me. Naturally aspirated cars with 427 CI are running the ¼ mile the low to mid 10's, with NOS there hitting the mid to hi 9's. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. You can email me at NRKnause@midamerican.com