Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
#1
Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Ok, dyno numbers are in....what can I improve? The car dynoed 410.8 HP and 373.7 TQ with the following mods:
TEA S2 5.7 heads, Ferrea 2.02 1.55 valves, milled .005
Comp Cams 987 dual springs (1.55" dia), Titanium retainers
TR 230/224 cam 111ls, TR 7.4 chromoly pushrods
Fast Toys Ram air
ASP pulleys (Crank and alternator)
Hooker LTs, coated by Jet Hot
Hooker ORP, coated by Jet Hot
Hooker 3" catback, dual 3" chrome tips
MMS ported/epoxied TB
SLP 85mm MAF
MTI carbon fiber lid, K+N filter
Hypertech 160* thermostat, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hurst leather handle
SLP bellows, SLP fan switch, Autotap
Hypertech CAGS
O2 simms
BMR boxed SFCs, powder coated silver
BMR LCA relocation brackets
Billingsley Racing "Race" LCAs
Billingsley Racing "Race" PHB
Moser 12 bolt, HD Eaton posi, 33 spline, 4.30 gear
Weld Draglites 15x3.5, 15x8
Nitto 555 DR 275/60/15 (28" tall)
Now, what can I improve on? Not so much on dyno "tricks", but how can I actually produce more power? I have the following mods in my mind, what is your feedback or opinions on them, or is there anything else I can do?
1)"Real" headers (Kooks most likely) should add 10HP (?)
2)Either add a cutout, or true duals, will give me 10 HP?
3)CF driveshaft, does this actually produce more power, or does it just give the dyno the impression of more power? 10 HP (?)
4)Bigger cam, 236/230, or mybe G5X2, or ???? 10 HP (?)
5)Add some timing... currently at 23*-24*, maybe add 4 or 5 degrees. (5-10 HP) (?)
Maybe with some 26" radials, 430-440 rwhp is possible through 4.30s (12 bolt) ?
TEA S2 5.7 heads, Ferrea 2.02 1.55 valves, milled .005
Comp Cams 987 dual springs (1.55" dia), Titanium retainers
TR 230/224 cam 111ls, TR 7.4 chromoly pushrods
Fast Toys Ram air
ASP pulleys (Crank and alternator)
Hooker LTs, coated by Jet Hot
Hooker ORP, coated by Jet Hot
Hooker 3" catback, dual 3" chrome tips
MMS ported/epoxied TB
SLP 85mm MAF
MTI carbon fiber lid, K+N filter
Hypertech 160* thermostat, Pro 5.0 shifter, Hurst leather handle
SLP bellows, SLP fan switch, Autotap
Hypertech CAGS
O2 simms
BMR boxed SFCs, powder coated silver
BMR LCA relocation brackets
Billingsley Racing "Race" LCAs
Billingsley Racing "Race" PHB
Moser 12 bolt, HD Eaton posi, 33 spline, 4.30 gear
Weld Draglites 15x3.5, 15x8
Nitto 555 DR 275/60/15 (28" tall)
Now, what can I improve on? Not so much on dyno "tricks", but how can I actually produce more power? I have the following mods in my mind, what is your feedback or opinions on them, or is there anything else I can do?
1)"Real" headers (Kooks most likely) should add 10HP (?)
2)Either add a cutout, or true duals, will give me 10 HP?
3)CF driveshaft, does this actually produce more power, or does it just give the dyno the impression of more power? 10 HP (?)
4)Bigger cam, 236/230, or mybe G5X2, or ???? 10 HP (?)
5)Add some timing... currently at 23*-24*, maybe add 4 or 5 degrees. (5-10 HP) (?)
Maybe with some 26" radials, 430-440 rwhp is possible through 4.30s (12 bolt) ?
#2
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Tuning?
I'd like to see the new TR236 in your car since you already have the TR230, I'm stuck on Reverse splits. Maybe add dual cutouts. I think tuning is what you definatly need next, happen to know your A/F ratio?
I'd like to see the new TR236 in your car since you already have the TR230, I'm stuck on Reverse splits. Maybe add dual cutouts. I think tuning is what you definatly need next, happen to know your A/F ratio?
#3
Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Thats with tuning, A/F is dead on 13 to 1 until 6600 rpm, then drops to ~12.5 to 1. I'm tempted to try the new TR cam (236/230), but I want to make sure my P to V clearance is ok, first. (5.7L heads, milled .005 with 2.02 and 1.55 valves) should be ok, but am waiting to talk to TR before I make a decision.
#4
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
That's damn good results. Your TQ is lower than I might have expected but still good. Your 4.30s are sucking out power, too, so that's a very good dyno. Also, if you would have gone with 5.3l heads you'd have a little better power output due to the bump in compression.
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
loose the **** box (hypertech) and get ls1 edit. if you get a good tunner you can pick up som good hp jason at mti with just tunning gave me right at 40 hp more than stock tunning just my .02
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#9
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
I tried a CF drive shaft and it showed 0 rwhp on the dyno. The weight difference is 3 lbs (11lbs down to 8lbs). Skip that. 0rwhp peak gain there.
Bigger cam? Well, I dunno, you're already big enough for those unreleived pistons.
Doubt the headers will do anything for your peak RWHP. I'd say 0rwhp peak gain there, maybe some torque gain (by this I mean, midrange rpm power gain).
So, that leaves the cutout and I do think you'll get a solid 8-12rwhp from that. My SS got 10 from a cutout with heads/cam. Downside is that it is obnoxious. I chose to leave the cutout capped.
Bigger cam? Well, I dunno, you're already big enough for those unreleived pistons.
Doubt the headers will do anything for your peak RWHP. I'd say 0rwhp peak gain there, maybe some torque gain (by this I mean, midrange rpm power gain).
So, that leaves the cutout and I do think you'll get a solid 8-12rwhp from that. My SS got 10 from a cutout with heads/cam. Downside is that it is obnoxious. I chose to leave the cutout capped.
#11
Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
I got 3RWHP from a cutout but my catback is very efficient. I gained 1mph though where the power was throughout the whole curve.
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
1)"Real" headers (Kooks most likely) should add 10HP (?)
2)Either add a cutout, or true duals, will give me 10 HP?
3)CF driveshaft, does this actually produce more power, or does it just give the dyno the impression of more power? 10 HP (?)
4)Bigger cam, 236/230, or mybe G5X2, or ???? 10 HP (?)
5)Add some timing... currently at 23*-24*, maybe add 4 or 5 degrees. (5-10 HP) (?)
Maybe with some 26" radials, 430-440 rwhp is possible through 4.30s (12 bolt) ?
2) cutout may give you 5rwhp
3) CF - nothing!!!
4) not sure on that one... you'd be a good geuina pig
5) tuning is your best bet! hypertech SUCKS!
#14
TECH Enthusiast
Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
I also agree getting a full dynotune would help you. I realize 12 bolts eat up a bit of power, but with an 02 M6 with all your mods, including LT headers and an ORY with that cam and heads. I would think you should be closer to 425-430 RWHP...
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Folks, he has a full dyno tune. Has an ORY, and 5.3 heads. I think it's in the tuning, and my other suggestions that I emailed you about.
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Folks, he has a full dyno tune. Has an ORY, and 5.3 heads. I think it's in the tuning, and my other suggestions that I emailed you about.
Hookers are fine. You might try a cut-out though. If you want a bigger cam... I would try a 230/238 or 230/236... unless you want to just get the G5X-2?
Did not see if you have Yella Terra rockers or not?
If not get them, and a big traditional split like I said.... with big lift around .600, and you should see an increase in peak numbers, as well as a good increase up top.
My .02... probably only worth about that!!
#18
10 Second Club
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
I think Hooker LT`s are fine. I doubt you would gain anything swithcing to another brand. I have the same cam as you right now but next week It will be switched for the TR236/230. I am expecting another 10 - 12 hp. Ill let ya know how it does. I wouldnt worry about the dyno #`s. A dyno is a tunning tool only. I would take it to the track and see how it does. Id rather have a car that dyno`s 350rwhp and runs 11.50 than a car that dynos 440 and runs 12`s. But thats just me. Good luck withthe car.
Jeremy
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
(1)Bigger cam...talk to LSM about the G5x2 it SHOULD fit given your mill.
(2)Electric cutouts...You've spent a lot of money so far, so you might as well go all out. They are so much more convenient.
(3)Adjust your timing like SLOWHAWK said. That's free and you could always change it back.
(4) You could also try changing back to your stock MAF. I had the SLP (with tune),but when I put the stocker back on I gained 5rwhp. Who knows its worth a shot.
(5) And last get the new LSX intake when it comes out.
You have a sweet setup there man, it's all about the attention to detail now. Unless you want to throw a 100 shot at it. Cheers
(2)Electric cutouts...You've spent a lot of money so far, so you might as well go all out. They are so much more convenient.
(3)Adjust your timing like SLOWHAWK said. That's free and you could always change it back.
(4) You could also try changing back to your stock MAF. I had the SLP (with tune),but when I put the stocker back on I gained 5rwhp. Who knows its worth a shot.
(5) And last get the new LSX intake when it comes out.
You have a sweet setup there man, it's all about the attention to detail now. Unless you want to throw a 100 shot at it. Cheers
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Re: Ok, dyno numbers are in....what next?
Oh BTW, I forgot to mention that you would also "show" a small hp gain by dynoing with your stock radials as well, but it will be just for show of course. Later.