mike#9

iTrader: (3)

I already put in a order on heads and cam... so I have $2400 in it already... Is there any stroker or all bore that I can get... that is still well built with reliable parts for $4000-$5000?

If so then what kind of power would I be looking at... and is it worth it over the Absolute Speed stage 2 5.3's with the 230/236 .592/.602 112 lsa cam that I ordered?

I also have a Texas Speed modified LS6 oil pump, Yella Terra 1.7 rockers, and ARP rod bolts, w/ a Rollmaster Double roller.

Let me know... and if it is duable.. what kind of power and torque would I be looking at?

Thanks and sorry for the length.. and I did use the search function, but found no prices.

P.S. I also needed to mention that I would have Jay at Absolute Speed build it, but I was just wondering if I could use parts off my car already. And if not what I should buy?

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

You have post's everywhere
Check out the shortblock prices at ARE and MTI.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

You'll have to talk with >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

but I'll give my .02

I think several sponsors sell All Bores for ~$4,000 to $5,000 with ~$4,000 being fairly typical with you providing a core.

Stroker cranks are expensive and I think the Lunati kit goes for $3,200 to $3,500 if you find a good deal cause $4000 is the list. I think a 382 stroker bottom end will cost over $5000 unless you are doing the work yourself.

Mini-Stroker - TPIS and maybe a few others, offset grind the stock crank to 3.82 and use Acura bearings. This is worth about ~20 CID on stock bore LS1. I think TPIS wants ~$2000 for the kit. You probably could find a way to get the right parts for less but it wouldn't be easy. Not too may many rods for our engines that use ~1.8 Acura bearings.

If looking at more displacement I would consider larger valves to help feed the motor. I don't know what Absolute offers but I think they use a 2.02 valve which is an excellent size for stock displacment engines. Larger 2.05 valves will flow better on a big bore than a 2.02 will. The larger valve might work better with a stroker or mini-stroker too, but I'm not really sure since the bore is ~ 3.9 instead of 4.1 + with a big bore.

Powerwise my guess:

Big Bore 480+ is very possible and been done but I'm not sure what cam and supporting bolt on's etc

Stroker 460+ depending on supporting parts

Mini Stroker 450+ depending on supporting parts

Others can probably give better specific's etc

fast 98 C5

I have a stroker kit for sale in the For sale section $2,500.00

Lunati Crank
Oliver rods
Lunati Pistons
makes a 382

you would need a block/ rings/ bearings and machine work

fast98C5@cs.com

pimpmaro

If you plan on drag racing, I don't know if you'd want to go stroker anyway. All bore would be a better way to try and lower ETs...

BAD ASS TA WS6

iTrader: (5)

If you already bought your heads and picked out a cam I say save your cash. You won't be making all the power you can out of the motor with S2 heads and that cam anyways. If I were to spend 5k on a stroker motor, I know I'd want some nasty numbers and cam that would build power up to 7k to justify the price.

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

How much for the the whole deal heads and all?

I am on a budget and I want to see if it is feasable.

Thanks

MUSTANGEATER

iTrader: (10)

I would just get a well built Forged 346 Put together, and bottle it or save the extra cash for fixing stuff you break. Just My $.02

Visceral

iTrader: (1)

I spent $5000 on a basic all bore 387 short block from MTI, so its sort of attainable. That was with stock rods.

However.... I did spend 1500 more converting my stage 2 heads to stage 3. (bigger valves, bigger combustion chamber, bigger ports, etc) I dont think you could do one wihtout the other.
Then Im going to either need some serious dyno tuning ($500?) or LS1Edit (my preference), and thats $500 plus a laptop if you dont have one.

so...er....the answer is "Yes", and "No".

chris

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

Save your money you are going to need a 12 bolt soon after getting the heads and cam installed.
Nate

extremecorvette

I have a block for sell that comes honed, new hardened Dura-Bond cam bearings, and new ARP main studs. Some people think the dry sleeves are better than the wet sleeves. I called Darton who makes the dry sleeves for Agostino racing and the wet sleeves. The tec said the wet sleeves are far better and can take more abuse, and that the dry sleeves are milled very thin to get a 4.125" bore. He said Darton has been using wet sleeves for years in motors that make over 1000 hp with out any problems. Also with the wet sleeves you get better heat transfer. Morgan Machine Shop are setting the motor up for me. Naturally aspirated cars with 427 CI are running the ¼ mile the low to mid 10's, with NOS there hitting the mid to hi 9's. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. I would be willing to go 3000 shipped. You can email me at NRKnause@midamerican.com