BrokeRacing98ta

I am building a 383 out of a 98 ls1 car. When I installed the #7 and #8 pistons/rods and rotated the crank it would only rotate about half way in either direction. The bolt heads on the eagle H-Beam rods are hiting the block at the bottom of the cylinder. Is this a common issue with the ls1's. Can I get the block machined to work safely or is this eagle kit not going to work.

BOTTLEFED383

youll have to notch the block to clear then youll be fine im building the same engine right now hope to have it fired up by nest 2 weeks if you have anyother question feel free to pm me

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Grinding the LS1/LS2 block is very common with 4" cranks, especially with Eagle rods. The 6.0l blocks clear fine though, unless using the L19 rod bolts.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Eagle rods are commonly known to require clearancing. The rod bolts tend to hit exactly as you've experienced.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

Damn it Carlos..u learned how to post a picture!!

racer7088

Yes they hit by a tiny amount usually on 383s. They are really only touching the aluminum part of the block and hardly at all if any to the iron cylinder so don't overclearance that area. Several H-Beams touch a little on 383s and need clearancing but again not by much. The Callies Compstars and most I-Beams will clear a little more but again it's not too hard to fix. Also make sure to check the reluctor to #8 piston for clearance.

ls1leadfoot

iTrader: (1)

that is going to be a strong running ls motor.....good luck with the clearence issues

BrokeRacing98ta

Thanks for your help but Im a little weary about notching the block so I'll most likely have my machinist do it for now because this is my first real build on my own. also did any of you have to cut into the steel cylinder sleeve to clear the rods.

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

i'm had problems with that and my pan as well. #1 or 2 rod was tapping the pan.

Mike94ZLT1

iTrader: (3)

It was probably hitting the windage tray. If you use ARP main studs they include spacers to drop it down a bit, and it gives you the clearance you need. I did that on my 383 and had no issues.

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

yup it was hitting the tray as well. put in the spacers and now that parts gravy. i just have to pull the pan back off again and clearance a bit more.

TheLS1Kid

iTrader: (12)

Rising this thread from the dead.

How much clearance is needed between the rod/rod bolt and block?

Im building an L92 427 and I know im going to have to clearance it a bit.

Thanks.

TopFlite

This particular issue concerns me about the engine's longevity when under boost.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

What clearancing? It's as common as the nose on your face. Amateurs who think they can just buy parts and slap an engine together panic because they dont know what to expect. This is why we have engine buiders. They have experience and they know how to do it right. Guys want to cheap out and save labor charges so they get a subpar build. But they saved that 500 on assembly charges... LOL

I've have customer's who are SBC "experts " who defer the build to us. It's not just like build a plastic model..LOL

Nasty275SS

iTrader: (8)

Here this might help a little bit, page 2 and 3 show how to clearance them.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...l_gallery.html

TopFlite

I didnt know that taking chunks out of your cylinder bores was a good thing. thanks..

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

I had to clearance mine with a 4.100" crank, The LS2 block has a lot of meat to remove,I clearanced mine with .050" clearance

TopFlite

He is using an LS1 block.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

I have the Lunati 383 kit and there was no clearancing to do what so ever.

racer7088

The Lunati rods clear at that area a little better.