TheSloth

Well about a week ago I decided to install the hotcam kit in my car. The cam went in without any problems but then when I was changing out the springs I broke a rocker arm bolt into the threaded hole in the 6th cylinder. So I took it by my friend's shop and told them to just swap out the rest of the springs too once they got the bolt out. They did that no prob but when you try to turn over the motor all the coils are binding down HARD. They even checked installed spring height and that is normal too. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what it could be?

x phantom x

iTrader: (14)

I have no idea, but I was battling the same problem today. Rocker arm bolt broke in the #8 cyl (all the way in the back pass side) .... took over 2 hours to drill out (broke 2 drill bits).
Good luck.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Did they install the copper colored spring seats on top of the stock spring seats? The stock spring seats need to come off first. That's the only thing I can think of, but this would have shown up if they really checked the installed height with a valve spring height mic. Installed height should be in the neighborhood of 1.800". The only other thing that might cause the springs to coil bind would be if you used too long of a push rod or a rocker arm with a higher ratio. Did you buy the kit new or used? Are you sure it is really a hot cam and are the springs painted blue?

jmX

Did you forget to put the rocker pedestal rail under the rockers?

TheSloth

Was a new kit purchased from SDPC... Springs are painted blue and its stock rockers and pushrods.

You know when i was there I totally forgot to look to see if the rails were put on lol I will give them a call early tomorrow, but hell I hope that's it.

Btw jmX gotta thank you on that manual... awesome job

pimpmaro

As far as the broken bolt goes, we broke a bolt in the rocker bosses using the jmX style valve spring compressor. His site was DEAD on with every aspect of the cam install, however I would very strongly recommend using a different setup to change the valve springs.

jmX

Pimpmaro, I agree that it is a little risky using the waterpump bolt in there and thats why the site says in BOLD to be careful and not bottom out the bolt. If you can use a normal rocker arm bolt to do the springs, by all means, use that instead. Some springs will allow it, some are a little too tall when uncompressed. I maybe should make the warning even bigger or more bold, I dunno. I've not had any issues but I know how important it is to watch out for the bolt length.

Sloth, you're welcome! Check that rocker rail...if its not in the rockers will be sunk down pretty good and your springs will be smashed to coil bind, AND, you'll potentially bottom out a bolt and break it off. Sounds kinda like the symptoms you mentioned.

Last Yellow Bird

iTrader: (1)

jmX, I sent you a message a few weeks back after reading the install on the cam swap. Great write-up, but for someone completely new to internal engine stuff, I had a question. Do you need to drain all the oil before you start the swap? May be a dumb question, but if not done right, could be disasterous.

Not doing the swap for a couple of months, but want to know.

Thanks

jmX

No, i usually leave the old oil in for a few miles for a couple of drives and then change it. That'll give it time to pick up any of the dirt that may have been on the parts installed and put it into the filter or pan. Then you can start with some nice fresh oil in there.

TheSloth

I called up the shop and apparently the rocker arm rail is on there. As a side note I used that JPR lifter tool and as I was pulling the tool out after swapping cams it was VERY hard to pull out. Could that have done anything to the lifters? Any other suggestions would be helpful as this is my daily driver

rnr27band1

JMX, it was my car me and pimpmaro broke the bolt off in, we aint holding you responsible at all. i have been thinking about it and i think it was just a completely random bolt break, we didnt bottom out the bolt b/c we were backing off the bolt when it broke and once i got the rest of the bolt outta the hole, it wasnt very long at all 1/2 inch MAX.

pimpmaro

TTT

Dave Carney

No, do not call the shop, go there, look for yourself.

TheSloth

Well after doing some research and talking to a few local ls1 guys they suggested puttin some wd40 on the lifters and letting it sit. That solved all my coil binding problem as it sounds like that JPR lifter tool moved them around? Well anyways, got everything put back together and the car started up just fine and running like it should now except for wanting to die with the A/C on.

Now all I have to do is drill the throttle body blade and I should be cured of the mod bug for at least 2 weeks