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Motoman Break-In - Need detailed instructions...

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Old 05-08-2008, 10:29 AM
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Default Motoman Break-In - Need detailed instructions...

Hello,

I just finished the car after swapping heads, cam, pistons, rings, honed etc and am now ready to "break-in" the engine.

I find Motomans theory as a logic way to do it (no, i dont want any comments why not to use this method).

However, he gives a lot of facts why to use his method, but not much information about the actual procedure.. I have never seen a Dyno, so i dont know how it works, and there is none to be found here. Street is my only alternative.

I would like a detailed description of what to do from when i turn the key until the 20miles oil-change, and onwards until 1500miles. For example: How long to rev it in the garage at the first start, at what rpm, until the coolant temp gauge is in the middle position? Then on the street? Whats the first thing i do? I notice he uses 3 stages on the dyno, how do i apply that on the street? Etc etc.

Also, i did not manage to find any 10w40 mineral oil easily here, however i did find 10w30.. Is that an ok substitute, or should i give it more effort and get 10w40?

Please reply quickly if you know, all help is very much appreciated!!!
The start is planned for friday or saturday.

Thank you,
Corday
Old 05-08-2008, 10:54 AM
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youneed to make the rings seat, so you need to drive it healthy. I would drive it easily until it gets to operating temp and then give it hell.
Old 05-08-2008, 12:31 PM
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what I learned a long time ago to seat the rings was get to temp and do 10 cycles of accel from 10-30 mph then 10 more 10-40mph 10 more 10-50 mph and when accel start moderatly and get harder and harder , change the oil at 500 miles and then drive it normally. hope this helps , makes you wonder what the OEM do-nothing?-probably
Old 05-08-2008, 01:40 PM
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What engine are you breaking in? Is a an LS1 or other LSX derived engine? The "how long to rev it in the garage at first start" implies this may be a Gen I small block chevy, or some other engine with a flat tappet cam. If that is the case, follow the cam manufacturers directions on break-in before worrying about the rings. Generally, use their recommended oil and breakin lube/additive for the best chance at preventing premature wear of the cam lobes. More info here, more from Crane Cams, more here, and here.

If you have a roller cam, none of that is necessary. zman1969 pretty much summed it up, get the engine to operating temp, take it out on the streets and put a moderate load on it at varying rpms, working up in intensity. If you have some hills around, they can help put a load on it, and a manual trans helps to keep the engine from revving to high right off the bat. Try to also let the engine decelerate in gear, per the instructions in the article you listed.

Short of that, the dyno section of that article suggests that 3 half throttle, 3 three-quarter throttle and 3 full throttle runs are all it should take. If you can get close to that in on the street in the first hour or so of operation. You should be done. Oil change intervals are always the subject of debate, but erring on the earlier side generally doesn't hurt. If you change after that initial break-in, then again at about 500 miles, and at 1500 miles, you should be good to go.

PS - the weight of the oil isn't quite as important as the composition (see all the links above for details on Zinc and other important additives).

Good Luck!

Old 05-08-2008, 02:51 PM
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^^^^^Good post.
Old 05-08-2008, 03:11 PM
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It would be interesting if some of the engine builder sponsors would chime in. I heard the opposite from Weber Racing for my new 408.
Old 05-08-2008, 03:45 PM
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Thanks for the great replies!

I am sorry for not revealing what vehicle that is in question...

Its a 99 Pontiac Trans AM, with a TR224-224 112 cam and manual 6spd transmission.

With "how long to rev it in the garage" i mean the period while it becomes warm. My question being how to get it to operating temp, since i've read that having a rpm of around 2000 is good to get sufficient oil pressure. How long i should do this until i take it out on the street i.e. at what temp?

I also dont understand "the dyno section of that article suggests that 3 half throttle, 3 three-quarter throttle and 3 full throttle runs are all it should take". How long is one dyno-run? At what speed/gear should they be run?

Also, what should i do if i get to an unexpected halt on the road and i need to stop? Should i park and turn off the engine or let it idle or make a u-turn and do everything to avoid the stop?

Thanks again,
Corday




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