I have engine noise!...
06-29-2008, 04:01 AM
#1
I have engine noise!... My car was running good, except for the fact it had a bad lifter. So we replaced the lifters. The ticking went away. While the intake was off we also did the coolant crossover mod and put block offs in the rear. Then put new head gaskets (MLS) in and new head bolts (ARP) in and everything was running great. The next day after driving the car again, finally, I started to hear some noise coming from the motor. It didn't sound like the ticking it used to have when the lifter was bad, but it sounded like a deeper noise coming from down inside the motor. I had a friend listen to it and he said it sounded like the same noise his motor had when he had a bent pushrod. But he didn't have hardened pushrods like I do. If I spun a bearing wouldn't there be metal shavings in the oil? The noise gets louder and faster with RPM's and I'm almost 100% positive that it's not an exhaust leak. What are other things I can look for to help me find out what this noise is? any suggestions?
06-30-2008, 05:53 AM
#3
did that and the noise wasn't really louder with the valve covers off and all the rockers were tight. I'm worried that it's a connecting rod making the noise. Is their any other way of diagnosing a bad connecting rod without taking the motor out?? shavings in the oil?
06-30-2008, 09:44 AM
#4
actualy i had the same problem with my Jeep V6 2000.
i did exactly what u did and the sound still was there so i went under the car drain the oil removed the Oil Pan and there i found broken bits of my piston. Then my only choice was to remove the engine.
i did exactly what u did and the sound still was there so i went under the car drain the oil removed the Oil Pan and there i found broken bits of my piston. Then my only choice was to remove the engine.
Mine just spun a bearing right after the H/C installation. 
07-01-2008, 06:10 AM
#7
Yeah, a couple weeks before that we did heads, cam, intake, stall converter, injectors, pp tb, and QA1's. we already had headers, ory and exhaust. I was so glad to finally get to drive it again after waiting 6 weeks for the Katech rod bolts to come in. and now this crap!!
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07-01-2008, 07:27 AM
#8
Sounds like an expensive way to learn that installing rod bolts without measuring bearing clearance is a bad idea. Some people learn it by reading, others learn it this way.
Good luck on your next one.
Good luck on your next one.
Last edited by crainholio; 07-01-2008 at 07:29 AM. Reason: found answer
07-02-2008, 06:04 AM
#9
The reason people pay 200 - 250 for Katech rod bolts is because they torque to the same specs as the stock connecting rod bolts... meaning no change in the bearing clearance. ARP's torque to a higher ft/lbs which makes the metal around the bolts "mushroom" out and change the size and shape