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Proper way to install OIL PAN GASKET?

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Old 07-02-2008, 07:07 PM
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Default Proper way to install OIL PAN GASKET?

Just bought this $50 gasket for my '98 Z28, and I don't want to *uck it up. Its aluminum and rubber and looks like it will need a sequence to tighten the oil pan bolts. I don't want to take a chance on ruining this gasket. Anyone have a how to? I have searched and haven't found anything with torque specs or anything. HELP!
Old 07-02-2008, 09:06 PM
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As far as I know there isn't any specific torque order to the pan bolts. Just make sure to put some high temp rtv on the corners of the RMS cover and some along the length of the bottom of the timing cover. Just torque them all down to 18 lb/ft. Oh, and you are going to have to break the old rivets off the original pan gasket but don't worry about replacing them because they aren't needed.
Old 07-02-2008, 09:19 PM
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DO NOT torque the 2 long rear bolts to 18FT LBS. Somebody correct me here but I believe those 2 are 106 inch pounds.
Old 07-02-2008, 09:19 PM
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Its just a gasket, nothing special about it. Put a little rtv on it and slap it on and torque the pan bolts down.

The 2 long, thin bolts in the rear are 9 ft-lbs (108 in-lbs), pretty much a little bit more than hand tight.
Old 07-02-2008, 10:48 PM
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actully there is a torque procedure for the oil pan. look at the bottom of the pan, it even says there. its in the service manual, ill have to dig it up. the oil pan also has to be aligned correctly or it will leak.
Old 07-03-2008, 02:48 AM
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Originally Posted by JFM-jr
DO NOT torque the 2 long rear bolts to 18FT LBS. Somebody correct me here but I believe those 2 are 106 inch pounds.
You're right, the left and right closeout cover bolts are 106 lb/in I totally forgot about those two.
Old 07-03-2008, 07:37 AM
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Thanks for the info guys, if you could BWW3588 confirm with your manual that would be great. I have the engine out so this shouldn't be too hard. I just didn't want to take the chance of having this leak after putting the engine back in.
Old 07-03-2008, 11:58 AM
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Here's some good info for you. Hope that helps.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...oil+pan+gasket

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...oil+pan+gasket
Old 07-03-2008, 03:05 PM
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I like Beast96Z's method (post #10 on the first link).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....9&postcount=10

Place the oil pan on and hand tighten the bolts that go through to the block. Now take your bell housing and bolt it to the back of the block, then put in the bell housing bolts that go into the pan. Snug all bell housing bolts up good. At this point your oil pan is in the proper location and as straight as it can get. You can now TQ your oil pan to block bolts down. Once those are TQ'd, you can remove the bell housing. Now place your front and rear covers on and loosly place all the bolts in. TQ the bolts that go through the pan first, then TQ the rest. Your now sealed and aligned and no speacial tools were required.
Has anybody else tried this method? Makes sense.
Old 07-04-2008, 10:30 AM
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man go to your local book store i bought two books that were similar and they had everything bout a ls based motor all motors specs and all kind of great info you can go wrong it tells EVERYTHING
Old 07-04-2008, 03:33 PM
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Is there anything wrong with a light coat of RTV along both top and bottom sides of the gasket?? Thanks for all the good info guys. This really helps.
Old 07-04-2008, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by c3killer
Is there anything wrong with a light coat of RTV along both top and bottom sides of the gasket?? Thanks for all the good info guys. This really helps.
No problem, I put rtv along the entire gasket on both sides.



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