twpetry

iTrader: (1)

I spent the last few weeks reading through various stickys and posts, trying to get a good handle on cams. I have no experience when it comes to cams and such. I plan on doing the swap myself, as i try to do all the work on my car myself. I know this is very unlikely, but i would really like to pick the right cam once and be done with it. I'm not looking forward to multiple cam swaps. So, with that in mind, I'll be taking any advice given here as gold.

Currently i have a 99 TA, 8Xk miles, A4, 3.23s, Lid, FRA, Ported TB, LTs, ORY, rumbler catback (not TDs). Future mods planned are ls6 intake, and UD pulley. So basically i plan on having a full bolt-on car, b4 i get my cam. The car is my daily driver, so obviously no trex or ms4 for me. I want a cam that gives me good under the curve power, and top end performance, with out having to spin to 7k. I'm not really concerned with losing to much on the low end, if it give me a decent boost up top. My car before this TA was my v6 bird, and as soon as i got the TA i started modding it. i really haven't gotten the chance to drive it much so i'm still not used to all the power. so the stock horsepower range is more than enough for my daily driving needs, So i guess i'm really looking for most of the power in the upper mid to top end. As long as that doesn't affect driveability and drastically raise the rev limit. If i lose a few HP down low, while im just driving to work, The top end performance will more then make up for it when i'm racing cobras and burning rice. Also the idle has to be fairly smooth. Don't get me wrong i love a good cam lope just like the next guy, but i'm really going for more of a sleeper car.

On to the Cam. I most likely will be getting a custom cam ground for me. I plan on getting the PRC dual valve spring kit, 7.325" pushrods, and either aftermarket (stock ratio) roller rockers or just getting my stock ones rebuilt. OK here are the numbers i was thinking of: 228/230 .588/.592 XER lobes, 116LSA with a 112ICL to give me 4* of advance. These numbers are just a starting point i welcome any and all suggestions and tips.

For now i plan on being cam only, but in the future i may end up with some LS6 or 5.3 take offs, I cannot afford heads so please do not suggest heads, like i said cam only, or maybe some cheap take offs. I have a question about how high in lift can i go? with stock heads and those springs? basically i guess i'm wondering if i should go with XFI lobes for higher lift. If i went with XFI the closest numbers would be 224/230 609/604.

Thank you in advance for your help. I've tried to provide as much information as possible to help you guys help me. instead of simply "which cam for me?" Like i said before i'll be picking my cam based almost entirely off of your help, so please do not hesitate to add your knowledge, experiences, insight, hell even your .02 is greatly appreciated. I will checking this thread often, and if you have any questions for me i will be answering them promptly. Thanks again guys!

TA1364

iTrader: (11)

Do you have a converter?

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

No, i do not have converter, and i'm sure you guys will kill me for this but i'm pretty sure i won't be getting one. I really just can't afford one, and the work on top of that.

I forgot to add that i will be taking this car to the track probably a few times a year, but its mainly a street car/DD.

Also another thing i forgot to add is that i will probably be adding a small dry shot in the future as well, probably no more than a 100 shot.

frito1

iTrader: (12)

Your cam and converter's stall have to match. So if you plan on keeping the stock converter, you better find a cam that comes on quick like the stocker. That's going to keep you away from the 230 range cam for sure.

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

I thought a stall was just for launching, if i'm not going to the track very often y do i need a stall?

frito1

iTrader: (12)

I guess as long as you are always rolling 30mph, you won't notice. Give the the ricer the race he wants "rolling" so he can get his turbo spooling. I won't do it. Even stop light to stop light, I could see a bog. That's all up to you and what you want to put up with.

frito1

iTrader: (12)

And beings you only want to do the cam one time and you know pretty much what you want and what you want to do, you might consider having a cam custom spec'd for you by Patrick G or PredatorZ

PREDATOR-Z

stock stall
214/224 .600/.600 113+2 LSA

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

is that really about as big as i can go?

not trying to argue but can u explain the y the stall is needed?

DaveX

You need the stall for the bigger cam even when driving normally, so the motor can spool up a bit before the converter engages. If you go to big on the cam with the factory converter it will kill your low end and midrange and could be undriveable because the bigger cam won't make enough power down low compared to the factory cam. And you will need to set your idle higher, which will cause problems with the factory stall. If I were you I would consider a stall in the 3500 range instead of the cam. It will be much more fun to drive, make your car quicker, and then you can add a cam later.

01Z0H6

iTrader: (63)

Get a Stall and call us in the morning...

Back in 99 when i bough my car brand new.. a Yank SY3500 stall was the first mod i did. Next was a TR220 cam.. Back then, it was considered a pretty sweet combo.

Almost 9 years later, and 3 more cams, and another Tq converter, i think i have it right.

Get a Tq converter,match it to a cam & your gears.

Someone else feel free to chime in, the Stall will be the best mod for your A4 hands down. It's really that simple.

james562

iTrader: (35)

Cam without a converter is like a dick without *****.... There both useless and will leave you embarassed

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

With a cam bigger than the one Predator recommended, you will be slower than stock if you insist on running the stock torque converter.

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

how much horsepower and what kind of curve would i be looking at for this cam? Also what will the idle be like?

01Z0H6

iTrader: (63)

Why is it, that you are opposed to getting a Stall?

twpetry

iTrader: (1)

I can't really afford a good stall and the work to put it in.

Patrick G

iTrader: (14)

A stall is worth 5-7 tenths reduction in ET. A cam with no stall is worth 0-3 tenths. Do the math. Money is much better spent making the stall your first mod. Trust me, I've only done this 13 times with an LS1.

LS1Z28-00

iTrader: (8)

a stall is easier to put in than a cam. get a yank ss4000 with some radials and drop over half a second in 1/4. you will probley just pick up some mph with a cam bc its going to be even more sluggish in the low end and with no stall to boost it to higher rpm you will actually be slower in the low end.

DadsZ28

iTrader: (1)

Hey Patrick G ,I am told you are the cam guru, any advice on cam specs for mods in my sig, stock exhaust manifolds. Sorry didn't mean to hijack the thread, you can pm me if you want, thanx.

kingsey

I did the 224R on a 112 lsa on the stock stall on my vette.

Tuned at east coast supercharging its perfect, Gave me everything i wanted doesnt pull throught the brakes at lights, sounds amazing and pulls hard as hell everywhere.


Call texas speed bro Dont get thunder racing lobes get XER lobes from texas speed they with all else equal make more power