DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

Figured I would put this up here because I was searching for different ways that people where cleaning the deck on the block. Anyway, I took a break from the H/C install and got some McDonalds. I was thinking what would be the most efficient way to clean the holes out on the block while I was taking a sip of my soda, and it dawned on me. I took the straw after I was done with the soda and used duct tape to attach it to the end of a mini shop-vac. It worked like a damn charm, makes me feel like a retarded genius, lol. But i mainly put this up here for anyone doing a search.
Mike

DaveX

Good idea. I actually used a straw, and my air compressor, to blow them out. Then finish with paper towels twisted up and a final blast of air.

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

That is what i was trying but was using canned air. Didn't want to have to lug it a compressor around and already have a tire pump. Still a great idea, suck or blow, lol.

JDM74

Take a old head bolt (the long ones) and grind 2 flat sides on it. Chase all the holes out with the bolt and then use brake cleaner to wash everything to the bottom of the hole. Then blow out with compressed air and thread a bolt in to check to make sure they are clean.

Michael V

First things first. What new head bolts are you going to use? If they are the stock GM units (new) than you can use an old bolt that is cut to clean out the holes. If your going to upgrade to ARP than thats a different story. The ARP bolts are about .005 larger on the OD than the factory units. So when you use the factory bolt to clean out the hole, it will not get everything out.
I am in the process of doing this now.
Buy the way, I used an old bolt first then sprayed some carb cleaner in the hole. Then I blu air in the hole with a rag over it.

Mike V

Weezzer

Get a plug tap, or better yet - a bottom tap.

DVS99TRANS

iTrader: (7)

I did this same thing with the old bolt, but had problems because I don't have a compressor to blow out the bolt holes. That is why I used the shop vac, canned air didn't work very well at all, lol. Lesson learned.

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

I've always been a fan of the flood w/WD-40 theory. . . That and q-tips until they come out clean. . . Takes ALOT of time.

DaddySS

We've had that mentioned before and it's a good idea. So you're not a retarded genius, you're smart for taking the time to think it through and trying a new method. Congrats! Don't forget to chase the threads as mentioned above.

zman1969

iTrader: (91)

anyone know the thread pitch of OE bolts and where can you find a bottoming tap locally? ill be using ARP headbolts so i need to do this. also what Torque spec on the headbolts-my used set didn't have them included and what sealer do I need to use if any ?

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

M11 x 2.0 for the head bolts. ARP sells a thread chaser tap p/n 912-0011 just for this purpose. Check the sponsors for one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...light=912-0011

Michael V

Note above that you want a "chaser" not a regular tap as it would remove material instead of debris.

Mike V

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

i took some brake line and a hose and claped it to a blow valve and blew all them out with the air compressor then ran the old bolt in and out till all was clean...it takes forever nop matter how its done...