Please steer me in the right direction on my rebuild!
07-13-2008, 10:50 PM
#1
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Please steer me in the right direction on my rebuild! I have been trying to get parts ordered before I start tearing my car apart. I'd like to have most everything laying around here before I start. It seems like I have a bunch of questions before I can start ordering parts!
First off here's the direction of my build....
freshened 346
AFR 205's with 8019 springs milled to 62cc
.040" head gasket
Patrick G cam he's already spec'd for my usage (revving to 6600 rpm)
Fast 90/90
QTP or Kooks headers
catted Y
plus all the correct valvetrain to handle 6800 rpm redline
injectors
etc
My current engine is stock with nearly 120,000 miles. Uses what seems to be a normal amount of oil for these engines. Doesn't seem very bad at all. It probably leaks as much as it burns (which is a great reason to rebuild it alone). It has great oil pressure. Here's the question to people that have tore down an LS engine around these many miles. Is there any chance of the stock pistons still being in good shape? And still having cross hatches in the bores? I fully expect to see cross hatches. Seems fuel injected engines don't "wash" the cylinder like carbed vehicles do so the precision of fuel injection makes them last longer. Would a new set of rings on the stock pistons with a light hone (ball hone quickly) to the cylinder be totally stupid with the engine out of the car? I wasn't looking forward to buying new pistons, having the rotating assembly balanced, then having the block honed/bored to the piston size. Especially for virtually no HP gain. Just a longevity issue.
This is keeping me from ordering my heads. If I find that I need new pistons, then I will get the -2cc pistons with reliefs which will cause me to shave the heads down to 60cc to keep everything the same as before (compression ratios). Then my pushrod length will be the wrong length. You can see my dilemma here.
Bank on the stock pistons being good with re-ringing and order the heads milled at 62cc or hold off ordering anything until I see what I have?? Then I have to pray and hope I can find all the parts when I need them (no backordered stuff). What would you do here?
First off here's the direction of my build....
freshened 346
AFR 205's with 8019 springs milled to 62cc
.040" head gasket
Patrick G cam he's already spec'd for my usage (revving to 6600 rpm)
Fast 90/90
QTP or Kooks headers
catted Y
plus all the correct valvetrain to handle 6800 rpm redline
injectors
etc
My current engine is stock with nearly 120,000 miles. Uses what seems to be a normal amount of oil for these engines. Doesn't seem very bad at all. It probably leaks as much as it burns (which is a great reason to rebuild it alone). It has great oil pressure. Here's the question to people that have tore down an LS engine around these many miles. Is there any chance of the stock pistons still being in good shape? And still having cross hatches in the bores? I fully expect to see cross hatches. Seems fuel injected engines don't "wash" the cylinder like carbed vehicles do so the precision of fuel injection makes them last longer. Would a new set of rings on the stock pistons with a light hone (ball hone quickly) to the cylinder be totally stupid with the engine out of the car? I wasn't looking forward to buying new pistons, having the rotating assembly balanced, then having the block honed/bored to the piston size. Especially for virtually no HP gain. Just a longevity issue.
This is keeping me from ordering my heads. If I find that I need new pistons, then I will get the -2cc pistons with reliefs which will cause me to shave the heads down to 60cc to keep everything the same as before (compression ratios). Then my pushrod length will be the wrong length. You can see my dilemma here.
Bank on the stock pistons being good with re-ringing and order the heads milled at 62cc or hold off ordering anything until I see what I have?? Then I have to pray and hope I can find all the parts when I need them (no backordered stuff). What would you do here?
Last edited by frito1; 07-13-2008 at 11:51 PM.
07-14-2008, 09:02 AM
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That would pretty sweet except for the 2 grand price tag. Plus machine shop work to fit that! Probably close to 3 g's by the time I get done with the short block? I've got too much $$ in the top end to be dumping that much into the lower end.
There is a guy in the KC area (close to me) that has a bare block for $400 that has less than 5k miles on a fresh bore/hone job. Not really sure why he has 5k miles on a motor and pulls it down? However this has no pistons or anything... I'd be starting all new there.
There is a guy in the KC area (close to me) that has a bare block for $400 that has less than 5k miles on a fresh bore/hone job. Not really sure why he has 5k miles on a motor and pulls it down? However this has no pistons or anything... I'd be starting all new there.
What should I expect?
07-14-2008, 04:43 PM
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while you have the engine out you might as well get a new set of pistons. And if your gonna get new pistons dont just cheap out get a good forged set. Also if your not gonna replace the connecting rods i would at least have them checked out at a machine shop as well as balance them. And have the crank checked, cleaned up, and balanced. Also if your gonna spin the motor to that rpm deffinitly opt for the ARP Rod bolts so there is no stretch. Just some food for thought.
07-14-2008, 05:21 PM
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Thanks. The ARP rod bolts were a no brainer. They were going to get changed. Guess I should have stated that. Chris Werner's book said the stock crank and rods were well capable of the 450rwhp I'm looking to make so I was going to keep them.
Last edited by frito1; 07-14-2008 at 06:28 PM.
07-14-2008, 09:38 PM
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Do It ! i agree with him.. you just need to man up and put a stroker kit in it. . . that way you will stand a chance of keepin up with me at the track 
and put all the power adders on it and it wont come apart
and put all the power adders on it and it wont come apart Trending Topics
07-14-2008, 10:28 PM
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07-14-2008, 10:43 PM
#9
**** 400 bucks for a stock ls1 block my *** I would just buy a ls2 drop my stock crank keep the same rod lenth and get some forged pistons and be done with it I think that is a 370 ci dont quote me but thats what Im about to do with this crank I have.
07-14-2008, 10:45 PM
#10
Oh the ls2 is I think 700 bucks a lq9 is 500 brand new if your concern is weight the ls2 is a better option Me I dont care My other motor will see a huge shot and it will be Iron lq9 so far I got the price to 1700 short block. But you have to shop thats with labor and balance.
07-15-2008, 10:30 PM
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If the bores look good and a leakdown or cranking compression test shows good, I would leave them alone. If you see anything on the weak side, drop in a new set of file fit rings after a quick bead hone (with very fine grit...) Properly done, there is power to be had...
Shane
Shane