Improved Racing Oil Baffle
07-23-2008, 05:45 PM
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Improved Racing Oil Baffle Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep from sucking on air.
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block
k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way
k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.
the baffle test fitted in the pan
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block
k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way
k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.
the baffle test fitted in the pan
07-25-2008, 12:33 AM
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What kills me the most is that this came out a week after I dropped my motor in the car. This is great news and I guess it will go in when I eventually get the UMI RR k-member.
10-17-2008, 06:38 PM
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12-13-2008, 12:47 PM
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Along with all the other projects, I made some time to install the Improved Racing oil pan baffle. As a quick background, I have been over filling the pan with about a quart and a half oil to keep from sucking on air.
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block
k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way
k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.
the baffle test fitted in the pan
I received the baffle a few weeks ago. First impressions: nice brushed aluminum, clean, precise welds. I had an old LS1 pan sitting around. Test fit: perfect. Lines up nicely, bolt holes all line up on center.
I opted to install it with out pulling the motor. Went fairly quick and easy. I got the car on jackstands. Attached a cherry picker to the front of the engine. moved the alternator out of the way. Removed the long motor mount bolts. Lifted the engine about 2 inches. Disconnected the intermediate steering shaft. I have an alternate brake line routing, so I did not have to loosen the ABS module. Disconnected the oil level sensor. Slowly removed the 6 bolts holding the k-member to the body. The K-member dropped about 4-5 inches down. Keep in mind I still have the swaybar, ect attached.
Next I pulled the oil pan bolts and took the pan out. I pulled the OEM baffle from the pan, dropped the Improved Racing Baffle in, and installed on the car. The rest is the reverse of the disassembly.
Total time invested just over 3 hours. I didn't even remove the wheels. Tools needed are the usual suspects: #10,#13,#15,#18 socket wrench, jack, jack stand, cherry picker/hoist.
So that was my Thursday night.
Friday I headed to the track. Willow Springs. For those that are not familiar with Willow, there is a 450' radius 200 degree turn. Long sweeper that just takes forever to get thru, and is a good test for any baffle.
I filled the pan to the top of the full line. About 1.5 quarts below where I usually fill it. Sat my brother-in-law next to me with the sole responsibility of monitoring the oil pressure. Took the car out to multiple 20 min sessions. The baffle passed the test. The oil pressure held steady the whole weekend. Not even flinching in the turns.
Here are some pictures:
distance gained by just lifting the front of the block
k-member bolts, also the brake line bracket is loosened out of the way
k-member and pan dropped. The pan is not pulled out yet. Note the total distance dropped/raised at the motor mount.
the baffle test fitted in the pan
