delsold

iTrader: (7)

Well if anyone has followed my thread about the machine gun noise I'm having its looking like I collapsed a stock lifter.

I'm going to be using the ls7 lifters when i swap them out.

I'm just wondering if there is a write up, or any tips anyone has. Also when i order the lifters should I get new trays too?

Anyone have part numbers for the GM lifters?

delsold

iTrader: (7)

also why do 02+ ls1s have MLS gaskets...and the 99-01 have graphite head gaskets? Should i swap them out while im in there?

code4

iTrader: (30)

I have re-used lifter trays with not too many miles on them. If they are higher mileage they might not hold the lifters up on a cam swap. They are pretty cheap through gmparts direct.

I like the mls gaskets, but I use power adders.

You can use this how-to for a heads/cam swap as a guide: http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

I would examine the cam and lifters and figure out what happened first.

delsold

iTrader: (7)

I think 15K with a cam and 78k on the stock lifters might have had something to do with it. And the MS3 swap i just did finished them. All the springs look good, and I dont see any signs of misalignment or wear on the rockers or pushrods. And no signs of coils binding. The cam hasnt even been in for 1000 miles and the last one looked perfect coming out.


For Parts would:
- Cometic .030" MLS gaskets
- New GM head bolts M8 and M11
- GM LS7 lifters (what trays should I get LS1, LS2, LS7? Or are they all the same?)
-Trays
-Valve cover gaskets (damn reusable things always seem to get bigger)

XtraCajunSS

iTrader: (2)

Those head gaskets would not give you sufficient piston to head clearance on a stock short block. you need to go with at least .040" thick.

Also, use the LS2 lifter trays when you are at it, they are a little thicker than the LS1 trays, we sell them for about $8 each. I can put together a package deal for the whole job if you like.

Thanks,
Shane

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

When I did my heads & cam swap I installed the LS7 lifters in stock trays with over 100k miles on them & haven't had a single issue. I say alot of people replace them for no friggin reason except someone else mentioned they should. Unless there is damage to your trays thats just a extra expense you can avoid.

I have over 120k on my stock short block & have been driving my H/C combo daily for a year now without a single issue & I didn't drill or replace the lifter trays like some people insist on.

Also you should NOT rely on the lifter trays to hold the lifters up during a cam swap. If you do, you deserve to drop a lifter for being lazy. The proper method is to use a long dowl rod to hold them in place or if the heads are comming off anyway just unbolt the lifter trays & remove them.

delsold

iTrader: (7)

Ya I wouldn't trust that method. I've done a few cam swaps now and I made a set of steel dowel rods that work great.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Dowels... What diameter and would wooden ones work?

TIA!

Russ

NEMESISVETTE

iTrader: (2)

I got a lifter tip for you.. If you look at a lifter you will notice there is a small hole on one side thats not on the other side. That small hole is your oil return on the lifter. You should always point that hole towards the main oil galley return flow. Driver side lifters- point the hole to the back Passenger side- point the hole to the front of the motor. This way the oil is returned to the oil galley in the correct flow direction.

Derek @ EDO

iTrader: (73)

considering the plastic lifter trays are the only thing keeping the lifters from turning it would be stupid not to replace the trays with new ones. For 32.00 you can have the piece of mind and worry about other things that could go wrong.

Seriously though when you try to save every penny on simple projects like this it usually comes back to bite you.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

X 100'000
Risk a topend over 32$ New ones went in mine!!!

Pipelayaz

iTrader: (2)

I always wondered why LS2 trays were better than LS1 trays... Now I know. Thanks!

One queston though.. can you or should you still drill 1/2 inche holes in them on one side for proper oil drainage? I heard the oil pools in the trays and gets too hot.

69_YENKO

iTrader: (16)

also interested in this

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Some guys who do a lot of HPDE's do this mod, I don't personally like this mod especially on a street driven car and it weakens the tray. Besides, the LS2 tray has a recess in the side that should help facilitate oil drainage from the head.

Pipelayaz

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks for your input.

delsold

iTrader: (7)

So bringing this thread back up for some more lifter install info ha. What do you guys do to prep the lifters before installing them? Soak them in oil I would assume? How long should I do this for?

Any other advice?

Local-heretic

1+ also interested in this information.

Just ordered LS7 lifters.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

I soaked mine in the same oil that was goin in the motor after buttoning it back up & let them soak overnight just for piece of mind.

LOL, also used my stock lifter trays & haven't had a single issue in 20k miles. I drive it daily & rack up a little over 300 miles per week. Again I'll stand by my previous comment of if there isn't any visible wear or damage to your stock trays you don't "NEED" to replace them, but if you feel the need to for piece of mind go ahead.

shadowsnkx

iTrader: (5)

so with stock ls1 lifters the hole is either up or down. I installed mine with holes facing down. Is this correct?