LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

So I am deathly afraid of blowing up my stock 150K '98 engine... my shift light is set at 6100 RPM, rev limiter at 6800. I have never dynoed my car, so I have no idea where peak power is at. Specs are as follows:

TR224 cam on a 112 LSA - I am guessing it's 4° advanced. I bought it used.
CNC Ported 241 heads, no idea on flow numbers. Again, bought used.
FAST 85/85 Intake (I know they don't exist, I made it.)
Hooker LTs, true duals.

What's the typical power peak with this cam? Am I going to gain much by shifting at say 6500 instead of 6100? Just wondering because with all these mods, I've only run a 12.44@116 with a 1.85 60' time. I should be closer to 118-119. It's close to the end of the year, so if I kill it I'll have an excuse to swap in an LS2 shortblock. So... opinions?

mike#9

iTrader: (3)

You should be reving it to 6500+. That cam peaks at at 6500.

Z28/2002

iTrader: (27)

Put some good tires on it to lower the 60ft and shift it at 6500

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i think it should peak around 6100 ( give or take 100 rpm or so ) so 6500 shiftpoints should get you very close imo. it SHOULD pick up if you raise your shift points some.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

I ran at the track last night and gained NOTHING from shifting at 6500. Car ran identical times as when I shifted at 6200. I'll stay on the safe side and keep shifting at 6200.

bongva

iTrader: (7)

so in order to rev that high do u need a better oil pump? or will the stock oil pump supply enough oil to rev that high?

madclown

iTrader: (4)

It's not the oil pump it's the Valve springs you should worry about...

bongva

iTrader: (7)

^^^ yea i knew that but... i was wondering if the oil pump was able to supply enough oil thats all

SladeX

Get it on a dyno to figure out where HP peak is and then shift a few hundred rpm above that.

With stock heads, my TR224 112 peaks at 5800rpm. A far cry from 6500 after 6krpm I am loosing torque off my curve quick yet my HP peak carries up to 6500, but it's peaked back at the 5800 point.

LSWNDR

you sould get ARP rod bolts LS6 ported oil pump and upgrade your springs my friend is running the 224R with LS6 stg 2.5 heads and he shifts at 7000, and let me tell you it's one badass factory freak 99 LS1 car lol

SladeX

For the 98-00 changing the rod bolts are a must if you intend to spin past 6500, BUT the question is, is it necessary with that combo?

With CNC 241 heads, odds are he already got an upgraded valvetrain to go along with it. I'm running my stock pump and have been spinning to 6500 for over a year now, BUT my dyno sheet says it's pointless and shifting earlier ie 6k has netted me the same if not better times than hold to 6500. It's all in knowing your engine combo through a dyno sheet.

Pushead

I have the same cam (TR 224 114LCA). Is it okay to spin it over 6000 with the stock heads? I thought there's the risk of floating the valves at 6000.

Also, (I just got the cam yesterday from the group purchase) do I need to retard the timing with this cam? I'm new to the cam thing, and from what I've read when the LCA number is 114-4 that means the retard is built into the cam. Is that right, or do I need to pick up timing gears that I can retard?

Thanks.

fastvet

iTrader: (2)

I have the 224 cam on a 114 LSA and the peak HP is at around 6200.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Was the car tuned for its' current mods? Sounds to me like a good set up that's either lost its' tune or hasn't been re-tuned.

mvvette97

iTrader: (18)

You may still be making power above 6100 but in reality I can't see that you would be that much faster at a track spinning it up to 6500 at the track.

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

It's had a tune from PCMforless, not optimum, but all I could afford right now. I'm going to be changing things this winter anyway, so I didn't see the need to spend $500+ on a dyno tune only to turn around and redo it in the spring. My valvetrain can easily handle 6500 RPM - Ferrea Stainless Valves, Patriot Gold Springs, and hardened pushrods. The car just has something weird about it. I should be near 11's with this combo.

mvvette97

iTrader: (18)

at 6500 I can just see that something bad will happen with 150k on the clock. I would imagine the mains and rods are worn quite a bit. People will tell you to do alot of things mostly because it's not their car..

Vndcatr

iTrader: (8)

Yea, i agree. At 150k.. that motor has seen ALOT.. Yea sure it may last another 30k miles. But do you trust it .. Id quit running it hard and save for a rebuild or a fresh forged motor . my .2

As soon as my motor comes close to 90k its coming out

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Yah, if it wasn't dyno tuned (mail order tune only) then it's most likely the tune. Not a knock against the tuner or mail order tunes. There's only so much that can be guestimated without running her on a dyno. Further, one of the things that is often done w/ a mail order tune is to increase the timing @ WOT. This can result in knock sensors pulling timing & killing your WOT power. So, best opinion I can make over the web is that it's the tune. Just have her dyno tuned after your Winter mods & she should be dialed in. Good-luck.

99FBODY

iTrader: (8)

I know i have a lot bigger cam then you but i spin mine up to 6800rpm.