dre2013

iTrader: (7)

hey, im about to start an LQ4 build for my 00 TA m6. picking up the motor next week. i am looking to have around 440-450ish at the wheels, reliably. the motor will see boost eventually, but most likely not until next year( in which case i would swap heads, etc). it has the factory castings, which i will have ported/polished and milled for a little high compression. I was thinking about the TSP 233/239 cam, but im not sure how much milling i would be able to get away with, and still have plenty of PTV clearance. anyone with similar setups? this car won't be a DD, but i will drive it several days a week to work/class etc..probably 100-200 miles a week or so, so reliability is a big factor. The motor will be backed by a T56, 3.42 gear( for right now..will probably swap to 4.10 over the winter). any input? i'd like to see what similar setups are putting down power/qtr mile wise. Thanks

x2jesse1x

iTrader: (4)

I dont know **** about engines so im here to learn. Whats the difference between the LQ4 and the Ls1. I know the LQ is from a truck, But how does it compare.

good luck

magic

iTrader: (4)

To sum it up,

LQ4 = 6.0L, 4.00inch bore, Iron block, around 9.5:1 compression, has LS6 style heads

LS1=5.7L, 3.9xx inch bore, Aluminum block

FearTheDeer

iTrader: (6)

Wrong section btw, needs to be in (Generation IV Internal Engine)

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

actually its not i did a search

any opinions? i came from the lt1 world so im kinda new to these motors

FearTheDeer

iTrader: (6)

haha ok brotha, you could make the argument that LQ4 can be in either 3rd or 4th gen motors. But i consider it an iron ls2, placing it into gen 4. Not the point of this thread though. You wanna know what people have done with lq4's? Tons of things. So can you be more specific about your question?

About your 450rwhp mark... completely do-able, especially with your cam choice. What are you gonna do about intake? and if you go LS6/LS1 your gonna have to modify a few things.

what are the specs on the motor your picking up?

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

i wasnt trying to be a smartass btw, i searched in the gen iv forums and barely found and results at all..8 pages, as compared to the gen iii section where there was 65 pages of info lol...

anyways, i was planning on using an ls6 intake mani, they don't bolt right up to the lq4? what needs to be modified? if it is too much of a bitch, i suppose i could just go with a fast 90/90 setup..probably squeeze a little more power out of it. here is the info the seller gave me on the motor:

"complete low mile LQ4 6.0liter ls motor, alum heads just got back from the machine shop.
complete assy short block
fresh redone heads
complete wiring harness (new style green and blue block)
coil packs
truck intake complete with T body and injectors
some assy brackets "

thanks for all the help

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

The ls6 intake manifold will work great. Bolts up fine.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

thanks for cleariin that up...i read a few posts that said the lq4 intake mani actually makes more hp than the ls6, but lacks as much torque. any truth to this? and will it fit with the stock hood? (trans am) ill be putting a ws6 hood on eventually anyways, but it will probably be a while until i get one(unless i find one for a complete steal)

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

Actually I believe its the other way around. The truck manifold being for trucks should make more torque, but the ls6 will make more power. Or atleast peak power I would think. Either way, the ls6 intake is forsure the better choice.

Plus exactly, the ls6 intake clears fbody hoods, whereas the lq4 intake does not.

FearTheDeer

iTrader: (6)

Ya the LQ4 manifold flows better because of how large it really is. And no, no way no how will it fit under a stock hood. Just go with the LS6.

When i said modified i should have been more specific. Gonna have to modify the accessory drive because the alternator sits too high, and the water pump line points strait up as apposed to strait out. Easiest way to fix all that is take the entire accessory drive off an ls1(plus water pump) and blot it onto the LQ4.

Does he have a year and mileage to the motor? Because i remember hearing an issue where a 99 motor will not bolt to a 4L60E. Dunno if that affects you in a T-56.

Also i dont think the injectors off the lq4 will plug into the ls6 manifold (not 100% on this one, but i would still look into it.)

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

The injectors will work, but they are kinda small flow wise, the fuel rail however is hideous haha. Yeah, the pre 2001 motors from what I read bolt fine to the 4l60e & 4l80e, its the t56 that they didnt bolt to, because of the crankshaft snout.

FearTheDeer

iTrader: (6)

haha ya i had it backwards about the transmissions. Thanks, i had to look it up myself.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

the stock ls1 in my car right now runs perfect with no probs, great oil psi, etc..so i can use any parts off of it that i need. i am however selling the longblock to a friend of mine(hes putting it in an s14 240sx). i am waiting to hear back on the casting #'s on the heads..the lq4 motor itself has 60k on it. he says the crosshatching is still very visible on the cyl walls. I'll def do a compression test as soon as i get the heads on before installing it into the car though just to be sure. would i be able to reach my 450rwhp goal with the stock heads milled?(and maybe hand ported/polished)-and also how far would i be able to mill them running a tsp 233/239? thanks for all the help guys

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

There are certain cams that will reach that goal with stock heads, especially if you mill them a bit to gain some compression. I beleive that cam is close, but I would suggest more the MS4 in that case. It would just be alot easier to reach that goal with heads of course.

I couldnt say how much they could be milled, Im not familiar with that department, might have to talk to TSP about that while youre making your cam choice.

Once you mill the heads, you are going to require different length pushrods most likely. Plus a cam that size is going to need upgraded springs on the heads forsure. So that would have to be upgraded aswell.

All kinds of fun, lol.

dre2013

iTrader: (7)

MS4 is a pretty hefty cam lol..what would i be shifting at with that in an lq4? i know on ls1's people are shifting around 7k+..not sure if i really want to spin it that high. heads will definetly be milled, and will have dual valvesprings installed.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (23)

99-00 LQ4 won't bolt up to 4L60e

LQ4 is also Gen3 no questions asked.

Gains of LS6 intake over truck intake are very minimal in general, but since it wont fit go LS6.

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

Ya, 7k is probably the right area. If you put on some katech rod bolts, you shouldnt have a problem doing that. Then there again, is more money that could of went into good heads. It's one of those things, how much power can you afford.

x2jesse1x

iTrader: (4)

so why are these motors so much cheaper then an ls1? Im looking to put at least an ls1 in my v6 and I have been looking at these for awhile. I just dont see what the big difference it. besides the Liters. So wouldnt the lq4 be like the ls2?

aNuBiS

iTrader: (25)

Yes. Basically LS2 except it is not aluminum, different compression, but same wiring/sensor locations as LS1(LS2's have front cam sensors and side knock sensors), so it weighs 100lbs more cause it is cast iron.

They can be had cheap because theyve been in GM/chev trucks for a decade whereas the LS2 hasnt been out as long, and was mostly found in vette's and GTO's.

Theyre popular because being cast iron, theyre virtually indestructible, and are popular for guys building forced induction engines. Either turbo(s) or supercharged, etc. Plus, can be bored/stroked to big cubes (north of 400ci) with one of these power adders. (is still 17ci bigger than an ls1 in stock form) Worth the extra 100lbs.

Or just a good budget swap motor for someone looking to get a taste of the LS technology in their old school street/strip car.

Only major thing you would come across is the truck intake/accessories are usually not desirable for fitment/power reasons. Which is just fine/convinient, if you plan'd on doing bolt-ons for power upgrades anyways.