reassuring proper break-in.
10-07-2008, 12:56 AM
#1
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reassuring proper break-in. Ok guys, tell me if there is anything im missing.
specs on car;
347 forged bottom end (never been fired)
patriot stage 2 heads/ f 14 cam (232/234 598/601 112) all new
FAST 92/92
performabuilt level 2 tranny w/3600 stall (never been ran)
run dino oil (probably name brand conventional oil) in it for 300 or so miles? (or more)
go ahead and put synthetic in transmisiion(performabuilt said it didnt matter)
pull fuel pump fuse, crank and crank (build oil pressure) then let her eat?
anything im missing?
specs on car;
347 forged bottom end (never been fired)
patriot stage 2 heads/ f 14 cam (232/234 598/601 112) all new
FAST 92/92
performabuilt level 2 tranny w/3600 stall (never been ran)
run dino oil (probably name brand conventional oil) in it for 300 or so miles? (or more)
go ahead and put synthetic in transmisiion(performabuilt said it didnt matter)
pull fuel pump fuse, crank and crank (build oil pressure) then let her eat?
anything im missing?
10-07-2008, 05:07 PM
#2
when I built my moter I ran $1.50 qt castrol fired the car and burped all the air out of the coolant. Before I took it off the lift I cahanged it and the filter. Car ran for about a hour total. Put the same cheap castrol in it and drove it for about 300-400 miles drained it again changed the filter. Same oil for another 500 miles dumped it and switched back to mobil 1 full synthetic. I' kept the rpm under 3,500 rpm untill it had 10-15 heat cycles. Thats the most important part. After that its been given pure hell.
Some may say its over kill but the $100 I spent on oil/filters is nothing compaired to the 7k it cost to build the moter. Also before I fired it up I just pulled the two big plugs on the coil packs to prime the engine.
Some may say its over kill but the $100 I spent on oil/filters is nothing compaired to the 7k it cost to build the moter. Also before I fired it up I just pulled the two big plugs on the coil packs to prime the engine. 
10-10-2008, 02:21 AM
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I was always told to go easy for the first 500 miles. After that don't be afraid to get into it a little. Then again, I had friends who beat the crap out new engines. They didn't explode...
10-10-2008, 10:30 AM
#7
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Use conventional for the first few thousand miles. I started my motor up, warmed it up then changed the oil and filter. After I filled it back up I drove it over to the dyno and let her rip. No need to take it easy. I've been changing my oil about every 1500 miles and and it only burns about a half qt. between intervals
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10-10-2008, 11:19 AM
#8
This method has worker very well for many people...modern engines are machined different than the ones in the past...the metals that they are made out of has changed a lot too.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
10-10-2008, 01:12 PM
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I've seen people break in motors for 1k-2k miles before going over 1/2 throttle, and i've seen a friend "break in" his motor by driving it under 3k rpm for the first 50 miles then doing WOT burnouts.
Both are still running fine, so IDK which is best.
Both are still running fine, so IDK which is best.
10-10-2008, 07:18 PM
#12
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Break it in like we do at the dealerships.... pull the fuel pump fuse crank it over for a minute or so put the fuse back in....turn the key to the on position to get fuel to the injectors....wait about five seconds and fire it up. Run it at idle while it heats up and yo bleed your coolant system. Then we rod check em.......5-6 grand a couple times to make sure everything seats properly... change the oil then give her hell.
10-11-2008, 02:11 PM
#13
This method has worker very well for many people...modern engines are machined different than the ones in the past...the metals that they are made out of has changed a lot too.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
